Hi Robert.  Thank you again. I think that the difference being is my preferred WIT method, rather than Peco point motors. And when I phoned for advice, the “ Man from Peco “ would have preferred me to use Peco motors and all the bits that go with it. Rather than  the WIT. I have been watching YouTube videos, good and bad, but on one the advice was “ to use a sheet of paper to identify the left hand from the right hand frogs, which I did, as you no doubt know, two frogs are wired together and the third is separate. Anyway as you are likely to be very busy, I better leave you in peace, and wish you a very Merry Christmas Ho, Ho, Ho,  Kevin 

[user=1238]RFS[/user] wrote:

I would think any wiring diagram in the magazine is going to be same as  the Peco installation instructions that come with the turnout… ;-)

There are photos to go with the words & diagrams which should also help.

[user=1238]RFS[/user] wrote:

I would think any wiring diagram in the magazine is going to be same as  the Peco installation instructions that come with the turnout… ;-)

My 3-way symmetrical instructions are for DC operation. DCC needs a few simple modifications to get away from power routing through the point blades. 

Nigel

Hi Nigel, Ron.  Thank you for your replies.  As I understand it, but I may be incorrect. One frog wire goes its own way, but the other two are wired together, in my case the DPDT Slide switch. The three rails on the left hand side are wired ( soldered) together with what ever colour you use, likewise with the rails on the right hand side. Just like the regular Electrofrog points.The one difference? I cannot see the underside wires that have to be cut, whether it is me or whatever, would someone please advise me, are they there? Or have I just had too many bumps on my head? Of course if the wires are present, that would explain the short circuit problem . And all I need to do is lift the track and start again. At least it would give me something to do over Christmas. Best wishes, Ho, Ho, Ho,   Kevin 

Did you read the Peco instructions that came with the turnout?

or why not read this
Peco Asymmetric 3 Way Turnout (SL-E199) - Permanent Way, Signalling & Infrastructure - RMweb

and I found that by Googling
wiring peco asymmetrical turnout

Hi Ron.  Thank you for your reply. Yes, and I even “ joined in with my comments “ , a fat lot of good that was?Best wishes Kevin 

I just read your post there Kevin, and the answers were back back page 1 with drawings and photos.

Hi Ron.   Yes, I noticed the answer today. I will have another go over/after Christmas. I just seem to be chasing my tail at the time. I know that the asymmetric point is a space saver, but, sometimes I wish that I went for a pair of straight points, job done and no faffing around. Best wishes Kevin 

Hi All.   My problem with the Peco three way asymmetric point? Causing a short circuit. I thought that all Electrofrog points were the same?That is insofar as the two wires on the underside had to be cut out. But, I cannot see the wires, is there any reason why they are not present on the asymmetric Three way point? Please advise. Best wishes Kevin 

Kevin,

 This seems to have been answered by Robert in post 11 of your identical thread below.

Have you checked the wiring to your polarity switches for shorts?

Bill

Hi Bill . Thank you for your reply.. I have gone back to basics on this thread. I always follow the instructions and cut the underside wires on Electrofrog points, but, this time I couldn’t see anything to cut, and I didn’t know if it was my eyesight, or if there wasn’t any. And that is why I began another similar thread. I just lifted the points, and for the life of me I couldn’t see any wires to cut. Another thing “ if there aren’t any wires to cut “ then why and what is the difference?      Best wishes Kevin 

There are no wires to cut on this point. What you must do however, whether DC or DCC, is bond the 3 rails together on each side with the wire preferably being a feed - a dropper on DCC.  Look under the point and you will see about 14 sleepers in that Peco have already cut the webbing for you. That's where you need to bond the wire. If you don't, you are relying on blade contact which in at least one route requires good contact from two blades. 

Also don't understand why you have started a new thread instead of posting on the old one?

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi Ron.   Yes, I noticed the answer today. I will have another go over/after Christmas. I just seem to be chasing my tail at the time. I know that the asymmetric point is a space saver, but, sometimes I wish that I went for a pair of straight points, job done and no faffing around. Best wishes Kevin

Kevin, space savers they are, these two ( one Peco & one hand made take 2ft to create 5 tracks, if I used Peco medium radius 4 of, that would be 3ft long.

And I don't where you got the idea of having to cut wires under the Peco units from . just because standard turnouts have that concept, doesn't mean they all have too.

Robert, I have asked Barchester Matt to merge them.

Hi Robert. I have put my foot in it again. Even though I replied to you, I hadn’t read your comments properly..I still don’t see or read anything that is under my nose. Very sorry for missing your advice.  Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Robert. Thank you for your reply. I am simply forgetful, it wasn’t until Bill replied to my thread that I realised what I had done, if I had read your reply No 11 fully, of course I hope that I would not had bothered starting another one.Best wishes for the New Year .  Kevin 

Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply. The problem with my baseboard is it’s only 14 inches wide. Handy for storing next to a wardrobe or in the corner .  But I do intend to have five tracks in my fiddleyard , that is three and two , but alas I didn’t have enough space for a runround loop . And there will be no scenery.   Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

Belated Merry Christmas.

My fiddle yard is 15" wide, enough for 5 tracks with On30 stock, which is a lot wider than OO.  I did not go for a series of points, but a 3 track traverser. Helps that my  primary access track is central. That gives me the greatest length in the yard. And no points to wire in, just the track. Plus I can alternate with cassettes if desired. 

I know you have an offset access track, as I mentioned before a diagonal yard gives you the most space. 

Points and associated curves take up real estate that cannot be used for storage. Fine if you have 16-18 feet to play with, but when dealing with transportable units just not feasible. Mine is 3 feet long with 33" tracks. Even the symmetrical 3 way with the curves takes out over a foot. The asymmetrical one is even longer. I can get RTR points with a #4 frog (Peco is about a #6) that cuts down the length required, but not enough. 

 One thing I have come to appreciate since going small is that what applies to the shed/garage/spare room/attic does not always work with mini or micro layouts.  Especially fiddle yards. Not something that's discussed that often, but a mini layout with an engine of two and a few coaches or wagons does not need a big fiddle yard. Three tracks Is enough to handle 4 trains, 2 on the scenic, 2 on the yard. For a branch line with a yard handling one passenger and one goods that is adequate. 

Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you for your wishes, and a belated happy thanksgiving and a Merry Christmas to you and your family.The trains most likely to work my tiny empire are a Hornby 2 Bil and 2 Hal, plus their Push Pull Set with M7. Not forgetting the DEMU’s , and all of them should fit the fiddleyard, that is assuming that there are no more short circuits.
But it would be nice to build an extension on the other side of the Inglenook, but I think 12 foot would be a bit tight?
If I was an expert? I would like to build a compact O gauge layout. But with me getting more clumsier by the day?
I refer you to my “ Selfie “ in the gallery under my username, a good entry for Halloween.  Best wishes Kevin 

Done 

(I hope  ;-) )  merged as requested Ron      




Cheers


 matt