How to cut windows

Hi All.   I have read with interest the many scratch building tips, especially the Warehouse , an excellent idea for low a relief backscene.  But I am having trouble cutting out the round part of window openings, the easy way is to have square windows. But, they don’t suit warehouses. Would some kind Modeller please advise me. Best wishes

Hi, Kevin, look up 'compass cutters' Even if you cannot manage to  cut right through your chosen material it will give a useful  track to follow.

For the serious plastic modeller, a pair of 'millwrights dividers' are the D.B.s for getting that important deep scratch line that enables a snap-out piece.

For large radii, i.e. arches, look up 'washer' or 'gasket cutter'. As a result of being  an 'ole git who can't  walk past a junk shop/tool store I have all three.

Don't  forget to look at 'hollow' punches, work well in card for small window tops, Aaron sell a set for £6-£7 that go from 6mm to 2mm.  Remember  to use them over a piece of end grain hardwood for best results.
Doug

Hi Doug Thank you for your reply. I had a similar idea with a “ Hole Saw “ to make a viaduct from plywood, but it may be to rough for plastic.  Alternative to DB is MN , same thing but different words.   Best wishes

Hi Kevin,

Paper template (use a regular compass or for arches a french curve, plastic or flexible) or as said steel or fiber washers to make the line (I use a 2H pencil to keep the line width uniform), nibbling pliers or old Xurons to get the approximate curve, curved or oval fine file to the line. I find with plastic it's easier to cut to about 0.5mm from the line and file to the line to finish. For straight sections make sure you have a flat file with one edge not milled.

I draw mine on the computer and print. Arched windows for warehouses are available from several suppliers. Grandt over here does them in a variety of scales with the moveable center panes. Saves the bother of doing all the panes.

Nigel

Hi Nigel.   Thank you for your reply. As it happens I do have some “ Plastic Window “ frames. I could use them as a guide.   if they had a rabbet ( rebate) that would make it easier one could hide the rough edges with the frames.     Best wishes Kevin 

A plotter cutter works for me.

Hi Mike.  Thank you very much. I will have to look out for one at the next “ Model Rail Exhibition “ that I attend. I notice that Squires have them , or similar ??? in their catalogue .   Best wishes. Kevin

In the past I've used a metal washer with the inside hole diameter the size I want, clamped to the plastic and then used a dremel with a cutting drill bit to cut the curve using the metal as a guide. you can use any flat piece of metal that has the hole the right size as a guide though, not just washers. A quick clean up with an emery board ( I pinch em from SWMBO) and your good to go  

 Cheers
  Matt

Hi Matt.  Thank you for your reply. That is another good idea, that I will try and report back . Best wishes. Kevin

Kevin just practice first on some scrap plastic until you get the hang of it  :)
Cheers

         Matt

Compass cutters work well. Cheap enough, I think they sell one at Works, certainly any place selling card craft stuff.

David

Hi Wahiba.    Thank you for your recommendation . But, you mentioned “ Card Craft Stuff “ , Card would be a whole new ball game from “ Brick Plastic Sheet “ though.   Best wishes. Kevin

Barchester wrote:

Kevin just practice first on some scrap plastic until you get the hang of it  :)
Cheers

         Matt

Thank you again Matt . I do believe that I have more scrap stuff than new stuff as it happens . Best wihes. Kevin

Hi Matt.    Further to my scratch building , I have been rummaging through my stock and sorted out some windows , I have small square type brass etches ,suitable for a “ signal box “, but the windows for a warehouse are printed on a clear plastic sheet. They look good for the job??? But, I cannot work out how to use them, have you used this type before ?   Best wishes.  Kevin

Hi Kevin I take it your now looking through the square window rather than the arched window ? (Memmories of Brian Cant and playschool popped into my head  ;-) )  I've used the windows printed on clear plastic before, cut larger than the opening and with offcuts of card (or plasticard depending on what you are using) glued over the edge of the window inside the building to hold it in place. Never used brass , are they pre glazed ? If so being stiffer I would Imagine you could just glue in place . . If not then glue to Acetate (clear plastic), cut the plastic larger than the opening and again use scrap pieces on the inside to hold in place. . .but guess what ? One of the guys who KNOWS what hes talking about will be along round about now to tell us how it SHOULD be done ( I hope !) 
;-)  Cheers
 Matt

For eched brass windows I tack them in place with PVA then cut a piece from a sheet of OHP transparency  to cover all or most of the  inside of the relevant building wall, again using PVA (or other adhesive  you prefer)



 This scratch built N gauge terrace uses Peedie Models  etched brass windows and doors fitted as detailed above (not so happy with my attempt at slate roofing though)

Hi Matt.  Thank you for your reply. My windows are by “ Protype Models “ on acetate sheets, when compared to the“ metcalfe Warehouse Kit “ which I have, but can’t be bothered building, they look oversized, and are printed in marked out squares, which don’t leave much room for gluing. But I will press ahead with a mock-up .
Best wishes.  Kevin

Hi Mike.  Thank you for your reply. An excellent job that, and good scratch built houses and warehouses look so much better than “ push through and glue together “ card kits from the famous company’s . “ N” Gauge Models are much to small for me to contemplate , although of course you get twice as much Railway for your money and more suitable for modern living.  Best wishes. Kevin

Kevin they may have printed guidelines that are a bit 'tight' but remember whos in charge of the scissers ! As long as you have plenty to spare, Ignore the guidelines and cut a larger margin round each window to give you more area to glue with. You will lose a few windows but thats ok if you have more than you need 
Cheers

 Matt

Hi Matt    Thank you again. I have just checked my stock, and I do have enough arched windows. I also have some“ Round Windows “.   Best wishes. Kevin