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Real Coal in bunkers, tenders and wagons ??

Hi Nigel.   Thank you for your reply. I’ve gone for “ over Scale Lumps “ of Coal . Rather than dust . But, when I was handling it, my hands were covered in dust , like a coal miner?  Best wishes. Kevin

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Hi Kevin,

That is why you have to wash it. I bought a 3 oz bag of real coal at a show today, enough for a dozen tenders, only $2.00. Hang on a minute, that's nearly $23,500 a ton. Hmm. No banging around with a lump hammer though, and it's anthracite, so no dust.

Nigel

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Hi Nigel    My method was to cut corrugated cardboard to size, line the wagon with “cling film” , lay the cardboard in the wagon, load the coal and then flood it with Superglue, when set remove the cling film and job done.But, there was some loose bits. I will have to “ Road Test” the loads individually in a plastic box to see if anymore of the coal breaks free??? Any ideas???  Best wishes Kevin 

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Hi Kevin,

Most coal wagons either come with a false coal load or they are available. Usually a plastic insert with false coal top surface. Most modelers just rough up the surface and give a coat of real coal. If you can't get them a piece of balsa or other light wood cut to size, or construction foam (pink, blue or green) cut to size works well. For the latter if you use CA you will need one formulated for foam.

By the sound of it you are making blocks of coal. The CA in the middle will set slowly and will outgas causing the plastic body to "bloom". All your fingerprints will be revealed! Not an issue if you use a thin coat. I use diluted white glue (PVA) with a drop of IPA rather than CA because of the blooming issue. CA is meant to be used in very small quantities, not large, as there are health issues from exposure to CA vapor.

My coal cost a small fortune (well, if I bought a ton in 3 oz packets it would), thin coats will be used.

Nigel

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Hi Nigel.   I decided on either empty coal wagons or loaded wagons . So faffing about with the original plastic inserts was not an option, as they can be tricky to remove. That is why I used the cling film, the Superglue , is that not the same as CA??    Best wishes Kevin 

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Hi Kevin,

CA = superglue. The plastic "coal" inserts as supplied just need a touch of the file on the sides to ensure they drop out easily.

Nigel

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Hi Nigel     What’s done is done and the plastic inserts are off to a landfill site fo another thousand or more years.My original intention was to use PVA, but, I had some thin Superglue left from my”Fluid Lead” job. Onwards to the next project : I have purchased a “Scart Socket” to wire into my baseboard manual control panel circuit. The cable will be wired into the plywood panel. Perspex  would be superior, but it doesn’t hide the wires.           
Best wishes. Kevin

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Hi Kevin,

One of those "live and learn" projects. As long as the end result is what you wanted.

Nigel

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Hi Nigel.   If all my projects ? Went as good as this one, it would be marvelous/ miraculous even.How are you’re plans going? I haven’t heard much from your workbench lately. Best wishes. Kevin

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Hi Kevin,

Major burst pipe and leak last week, so no modeling for a bit.

Nigel

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When I add coal to wagons or engine tenders, I mix the PVA glue with black acrylic paint. Then if there are any gaps in the coal the glue has dried blacky/grey.

Oh, Dr Beeching what have you done?
There once were lots of trains to catch, but soon there will be none.
I'll have to buy a bike, 'cos I can't afford a car.
Oh, Dr Beeching what a naughty man you are!
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Hi John.   Thank you for your reply. The problem I had was reducing the coal lump size without it turning to dust.Which left me with gaps in the loads. If I get around to it?? I could fill in the gaps with dust, or some in between sizes , all the same the real coal looks much better, and considering the fact that 
I have only built Shunting Puzzles, neither are likely to be attending shows.  Best wishes. Kevin

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