replacing "Ferro

[user=606]Sol[/user] wrote:

Kadee have this regarding Uncoupler 322
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page322.htm
Ready to mount on top of ties with Code 83 rail.
Cut out ties if mounting Code 70, 55 or 40 rail

So Hattons  are not giving bad advice…

Hi Ron. and. Nigel.   Now, if I wasn't confused beforehand ? I am totally confused now. As I have written " I am not familiar with all the different "track codes", and whether or not it is my unfamiliarity I don't know, but apologies all round.
My trials with 3 mm cube and code 75 track were unsuccessful ! And Ron alerted me to the fact that Perry was using code 100, this was not mentioned in the "YouTube " video demonstration that I was going by, now that I have put the
3 mm cube Neodymium magnets aside, I intend to go down the "Kadee delayed action magnet/ Code 75 route".
All together now? Once the "code 75 track " is glued in position do I remove the sleepers or not? And for which
Kadee magnet 322 as quoted?   Kevin

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

[user=606]Sol[/user] wrote:

Kadee have this regarding Uncoupler 322
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page322.htm
Ready to mount on top of ties with Code 83 rail.
Cut out ties if mounting Code 70, 55 or 40 rail

So Hattons  are not giving bad advice…

Hi Ron. and. Nigel.   Now, if I wasn't confused beforehand ? I am totally confused now. As I have written " I am not familiar with all the different "track codes", and whether or not it is my unfamiliarity I don't know, but apologies all round.
My trials with 3 mm cube and code 75 track were unsuccessful ! And Ron alerted me to the fact that Perry was using code 100, this was not mentioned in the "YouTube " video demonstration that I was going by, now that I have put the
3 mm cube Neodymium magnets aside, I intend to go down the "Kadee delayed action magnet/ Code 75 route".
All together now? Once the "code 75 track " is glued in position do I remove the sleepers or not? And for which
Kadee magnet 322 as quoted?   Kevin

Kevin  all of my 3mm cube magnets are in Code 75 track as I mentioned earlier on in this thread, sleepers removed and a strip of 5 magnets super glued in its place, then repeat for two other sleepers making sure the North / South poles are identically aligned.

I thought the YMR link gave a lot of info

Now if you are going to use Code 75 & Kadee magnets, yes remove sleepers ( making sure track is anchored to the base first) - and you may need to provide some thin material ( card/styrene) in the new slot of missing sleepers to have the magnet at the correct level
The Kadee recommendation is "The uncoupler should extend above the rails by exactly 1/64" (0.4mm)."   as per Nigels' post.

PS.  track codes & sizes were in the back of Peco catalogues.

Hi Ron.   Thank you
I have actually seen two different ideas with Kadee Couplings and 3 mm cube Neodymium .
Both kept the sleepers intact, but neither mentioned track code. The first video had five magnets down each side of the track and the demonstrator said the poles were identified by colour.
And the second video had five magnets transverse.  Kevin

Hi Kevin,

I asked Sam at Kadee about a #322 and code 75 rail. Fast response. As I suspected they have not evaluated it (why should they, it's intended for code 83 rail). The pertinent part of his response was:

"Normally the top of the uncoupler is about .010" to .015" above the top of
the rail and if the couplers are mounted correctly the trip pins will clear
the surface of the magnet. If the magnet is above .015" (0.4 mm) you will
have to adjust all your trip pins for clearance and there are some
locomotives that have very low gear housing that may scrape the top of the
magnet."

So there you have it. As usual, it's try it and see, and basically depends on the height of the rail chair. Note the comment "if the couplers are mounted correctly". This I suspect would be the crucial part. He also mentioned that if you have to cut ties to position the magnet it may be better to use the code 100 magnet, presumably because it's thicker with more magnetic field strength (and can thus be positioned slightly below rail height).

It might be better persevering and getting those neodymium magnets to work.

Nigel

Hi Nigel
Thank you. That is why I was thinking about code 100 for the sidings, and the packet of four, Peco code 75 to code 100 adaptors, to connect to the main. But that might be a bridge too far? Another idea I had was to buy some "Solenoid wire" and build my own electro magnets conveniently hidden in lineside buildings, after of course a period of "Faffing about". and that is the best alternative /s that I can come up with.   Kevin

Hi Kevin,

One on each side?  Electromagnets take a lot of power, and get very hot.

Nigel

An interesting discourse about Kadees.

Whilsty my current Maxmill development has temporarily ground to a halt,  I am slowly swapping my TL's for Kadees.  I haven't fitted any magnets yet but had intended to copy Perry and Sol's practice of magnets glued at sleeper height - the bulk of my track is Code 100.

The first page of this thread made me wonder if I'd dropped an almighty clanger - my stock has metal axles - but then Sol came to the rescue by saying it does, in fact, work.  Thank you Sol - you've saved my bacon !!!

Hi Peter welcome to the debateand not forgetting Nigel and Ron. As it happens I emailed Hattons, asking them about fitting the Kadee 322 delayed action uncoupler? I received a "well meant reply" describing the "height gauge", when I pointed out "that is not what I was asking about", their response was also " well meant, but rather odd" considering there standing ."their support team didn't no what I meant, and they did not stock it. Very strange indeed! I have kept this email, and can forward a copy to anyone interested ?  Kevin

Kevin, Hattons stock 13 of the many Kadee items including height gauge
Kadee model railways & diecast from Hattons Model Railways

I doubt that many UK shops would know details about fitting Kadee uncouplers - it is far better IMO to read this site
https://kadee.com/htmbord/instruc.htm

Kadee have an impressive set of Instructions and helpful tips and as Nigel has indicated, Sam at Kadee is a great help https://kadee.com/htmbord/answer.htm

but yes I would like to see your e-mails to Hattons & their
replies - my e-mail is mabocat@adam.com.au

Hi Ron.   I will take the time and "Study" the Kadee info". Kevin

Hi Ron, Gary and Nigel.
If I use Kadee 5 couplings with a Gearbox, would it make a difference ?
Would it be possible to prevent " Coupling Droop"? Could for instance make it a tighter fit without preventing it from functioning? As the height is crucial ?    All the best. Kevin

Kevin, Kadee couplers are designed to work with their gear boxes
https://kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm

I have never had coupler droop as long as one follows the instructions    but saying that. the NEM versions 17-20 may do that in some of the UK brand rolling stock but a sliver of very thin styrene underneath the coupler shank stops that droop.

Hi Ron . Thank you.
Up until now I have found that my assortment of wagons i.e. Bachmann , Dapol ,and Oxford all suffer with "Droop", and of that motley bunch, I7's in Dapol , were no good as they pulled out in use, which meant using 19's. making. a bad job worse, which is the reason for my question.
But with my " first steps" into kit building  ( Shaky steps) I thought that I had better ask your advice, because of the need to purchase couplings ( which IMHO make it too expensive, but a necessary evil).as I have "pinged" vital parts of my buffer assemblies it will mean the purchase of ready made castings.   All the best. Kevin

Hi Ron.
You won't believe this? but it is nearly dinner time, and I have just phoned "  Peters Spares", when a dreary voice answered the phone . I asked for the Kadee part number 334 Uncoupling Gluing Jig , told him the purpose, no he said " You would be best phoning Gaugemaster, they specialise in all that continental and foreign stuff" to which I replied
"I have just had an email from Australia, recommending Peters Spares" his reply was " As I said you'd be better phoning Gauge master.   All the best. Kevin

Hi Kevin, Ron,

That "droop" is unfortunately inherent in the design. Unless the manufacturing tolerance is tight for the pocket (which it's not), and the dovetail that slots into the holder is also tight (which it often is not) the coupler droops. Makes no difference to tension locks, it's another story with Kadee couplers. The design on continental stock is different and is strictly to NEM specifications (and that is what the Kadee #17-20 couplers were intended for). No UK manufacturer is a member of NEM, and has no incentive to meet the standards for the NEM 362 pocket. I've given up on trying to get them to work properly, and have gone back to what I should have done in the first place - get rid of the mounting and use the Kadee draft boxes attached to the chassis of the freight van/box/truck with glue and screw.

I've been In communication with Kadee, and it seems that the fitting dimensions for their #322 have to be strictly followed - height and centering. It has a weaker magnetic field than the #321 (makes sense, it's thinner) and almost all of it is at the edges (hence the requirement for accurate centering). The code 100 #321 magnet inlet into the sleepers would be a better solution unless you are using code 83 rail. The reason they don't have magnets for lower codes is that they would be too thin to hold enough magnetic forces to actuate the pins. The #322 is at the limit apparently. It really does need to be Goldilocks for it to work as designed. Their recommendation to me was to use a #321 (code 100) for code 75 and let it into the sleepers.

If it were me I'd be pointing out to Hattons et al. that it's no good selling the #322 magnet without the centering jig. The one needs the other. Stop being lazy and stock the necessary components. That said, you can get it on ebay.co.uk for £6.00 (Kadee #344 gluing jig). Or make your own from styrene. Good investment either way.

Nigel

Interesting Kevin in that Peters Spares has the jig  listed on their site
Kadee 334 Uncoupler Gluing Jig for No.312/321/322 - Kadee | Peters Spares Model Railways

Yes Gaugemaster do have 334 as well - in fact a very good range
The Model Shop for Big Imaginations | Gaugemaster

Hi Ron.  Thank you. Strange but true, I don't  think that " Assistant? " or WHY had a very good attitude, as if he was"Working his Notice"? but He wouldn't be "Employee of the Month" material.   Kevin

Hi Ron.  Thank you. A belated reply as I am still very busy looking for a Railway Room with a house wrapped around it. But at last I have purchased the Kadee 321 magnets and have been securing the track with glue at the end of the sleepers where the magnets will fit , and that means packing to the correct height . But by how much ? and should I use plastikard or WHY? I will get there one day. All the best. Kevin

Hi Ron.  Now I am worried? Me being the odd man out of model railways, so to speak?? I thought that with code 75 being that bit lower .(25 mm). One was required to cut out the sleepers, and then pack them from underneath .
I do like Gary's idea, but when I looked on line, I couldn't see the magnets , as in Gary's thread. And the magnets I saw were Exorbitant. must have been made of gold?   All the best. Kevin