Electrics DCC
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wiring droppers
Operationally your choice of wire should work quite well, the electrons don't care whether the wire is for DC or DCC, only that the wire is big enough to get through, which it is.Of course if your lighting wire is old then it will be Red and Black, on modern wiring Red is replaced by Brown and Black By Blue but again the electrons don't care. ( it's an internatinal standardisation thing that caused the colours to change!!)
I do prefer soldered connections for wiring and personnally hate those suitcase connectors, I also hate working under baseboards, which is why my wiring is on the back of the back scene.
Now I've finally started a model railway…I've inherited another…
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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I've been following your thread with interest (and keeping quiet for a change). Some "bin there dun that" comments in no particular order:
1. Already stated, cut the web and move the sleepers out of the way. One of the arguments for attaching droppers before gluing the track down. It's a tad difficult afterwards. It can be done by not gluing the sleepers and cutting the web where you want the dropper, but that to me begs the question "why bother"…
2. Cover the adjacent sleepers with wet kitchen towel. It won't stop a hot rail from melting the sleeper, it will stop a hot iron from making moon craters.
3. You want to limit how far solder will go. This is an issue with liquid (organic fluxes). Use a soft pencil (2B-8B) and mark the limits. Solder will not flow onto the graphite.
4. Conventional wisdom says to attach droppers between sleepers. Drilling through the sleepers is not necessary if you attach the droppers before laying track. The only time I would go though sleepers is with copper-clad ones, which has the advantage that the dropper can be attached to the copper-clad rather than the rail.
5. Attaching solid copper droppers to the outside web of the rail involves 2-4 bends, attaching it to the bottom of the web, which is a lot neater and unobtrusive, needs one bend. Tin the end, dab of flux with the paint brush, one touch of the iron and it's job done! This works with stranded wire, tinning it first makes it bendable and it stays in shape.
6. Dropper wire is conventionally 26ga to 22ga, 0.4mm-0.65mm diameter. Anything smaller can act like toaster wire. It may pass the current, there is something called resistance to take into account.
7. Use whatever colors make sense to you. Just attach labels so you know what is what.
8. Don't use one bus for multiple tracks (as in a double track roundy-roundy). Use 2 buses (or more as required) appropriately color-coded, and use some sort of block protection electronics so that a short on one bus doesn't affect the entire layout.
9. Scotch-Lock (suitcase) connectors only work with fairly similar diameter wires. Using 10ga bus wire (2.6mm diameter) and 26ga dropper wire (0.4mm diameter) does not work well as the diameter of the large wire prevents a decent bite in to the smaller diameter wire. The result is a poor connection that will often fail intermittently with temperature (expansion/contraction) changes. Solid copper bus wire and stranded wire droppers have another issue, the blade in the Scotch-Lock connector will shear the wires rather than bite them. Any jiggling and they loose contact with the blade. They come in different size ranges, choose very carefully. We've been through the pros and cons of these connectors over the years in this forum, my experience to date is generally positive, although they can be unreliable if used incorrectly. They don't like humidity changes, I think mine made 8 years because they were always in a humidity-controlled environment. As much as I like them, solder and terminal blocks are more reliable, and a lot less expensive.
10. Soldering copper drop wires to brass track (aka nickel silver) doesn't require a whole range of fluxes. I use an organic flux that leaves no noxious residue and doesn't require an extensive wash afterwards. How you do that with laid track beats me. Make sure the metals are clean, oxide-free and grease-free. Nickel silver rail oxidizes, it's a light yellow color. Stripped wire will have a light coat of whatever was in the plastic. My sequence is 90% IPA, #800 emery, 90% IPA. Keep fingers away from where you want to solder, there is enough oil on them to create a cold solder joint. Especially after a fish supper.
11. Keep away from rosin-cored or rosin-flux. I also use lead-tin solder, not the cadmium variety. It flows better (it goes from the solid to liquid phase in a short temperature range, cadmium-containing ones seem to have a wider temperature range, go through a "pasty" stage and in my experience require a hotter iron and longer dwell time).
12. Be careful what you watch on YouTube, one man's meat is another man's poison. And the devil is in the detail. Practice makes perfect, watching somebody else doing it "their way" maybe…not so perfect.
BTW, I use a 6mm/1/4" general purpose pointy tip on the iron. Seems to work OK. "Hot and quick does the trick" approach. My iron has an adjustable output, for soldering droppers I use it at 25W-30W and 188 solder.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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My other soldering iron is a 15 watt version of the 25 watt iron. Which has a finer tip, and may have been better if I stuck with it? all the best. Kevin
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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It takes a bit more planning, but I recon soldering up the droppers (on the bottom or the outside web) drilling the holes and then gluing the track is the best way to proceed. Needs precise measurements though to make sure the holes are in the right space. It helps if the droppers are staggered by a couple of sleepers.
One thing you get with a decent sized tip is good heat transfer. I'd rather use a 1/4" tip rather than the smaller 1/8" tip for soldering up droppers. I keep the small tip for finicky jobs like soldering wires back on decoders or 8-pin sockets, making wipers or attaching resistors to vero board. Just takes a bit of practice to use the larger tip without damaging sleepers.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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All the best. Kevin
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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By entering dcc block detection into Youtube search box, you will many means of doing so
one of many
you can also use IRDOTS
How infra red train detection works
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
Posted
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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