M7 LSWR livery and which carriages

You are saying there is no way the magnet is interfering with the loco and there is nothing obvious protruding above the rail height in that case look carefully at the M7 have you inadvertently when handling the loco dislodged some of the brake rodding from its location pins/holes and it is hanging down below the rail height.

Lets also clarify when you say grounding you mean the loco is actually being slightly lifted off the tracks in that area?

Brian

[user=2137]Briperran[/user] wrote:

You are saying there is no way the magnet is interfering with the loco and there is nothing obvious protruding above the rail height in that case look carefully at the M7 have you inadvertently when handling the loco dislodged some of the brake rodding from its location pins/holes and it is hanging down below the rail height.

Lets also clarify when you say grounding you mean the loco is actually being slightly lifted off the tracks in that area?

Brian

Whether or not the magnet is interfering with the M7 I don’t know? But the M7 would not pass it. During a moment of departure from the wiring issues that I have, I have been considering an electromagnetic uncoupler in place of the permanent magnet. I can categorically state that the “ Brake Rodding “ is in place, and above the inner rims of the wheels. I also stated that when the M7 departed the fiddleyard it seemed to highlight a short circuit where all the Bachmann Locos and Dave Jones Locos have no problems. I sincerely hope that we can put the M7 to rest for the present.   Best wishes Kevin 

Ok so your magnet is not in any way mechanically stopping the loco and there is nothing on the loco that is lower than it should be so therefore there is nothing that should stop it. But you say it will not pass the magnet?
This is a long shot but are the magnets you are using very strong? If they are and you are running the loco very slow the magnet power itself could be stopping the motor turning because of the strength of magnetism could be pulling on the wheels or other metal parts that may be on the loco. Push the loco gently by hand along the track and when it goes over the magnet do you feel resistance

Brian

Hi guys,

I was just thinking the same thing as Brian and if your further testing shows some resistance Kevin, take the magnet out and drive the loco over the hole under power and see if it's any better.

Bon courage,

Bill

[user=2137]Briperran[/user] wrote:

You are saying there is no way the magnet is interfering with the loco and there is nothing obvious protruding above the rail height in that case look carefully at the M7 have you inadvertently when handling the loco dislodged some of the brake rodding from its location pins/holes and it is hanging down below the rail height.

Lets also clarify when you say grounding you mean the loco is actually being slightly lifted off the tracks in that area?

Brian

Brian.  â€œ Not interfering “ ? But blocking the path! And nothing is protruding above the rails.        Maybe I will have to learn how to do a video, once I have caught up with some sleep 💤. I have made an appointment with my GP to discuss my sleep issues.   Best wishes Kevin 

It might be worth checking the back to back mesurements on all the axles Hornby are known for having undersize gaps between the wheels, one wheel set might be pinching on the magnet.

Bob

Kevin have you actually read posts 43 and 44 with your last post you are answering again a question you had answered earlier.


Brian

Hi Bob. Thank you for your reply. As it happens, I do have a back to back Gauge, c/o DOGA. But I have never used it before,  and I will give it a go.    Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

If those are KaDee magnets they are not designed for or meant to be used with code 75 rail. Is this the 312 uncoupler? They were originally designed for code 100, from memory some baseboard should be removed for code 83, and even more for code 75. I did ask Kadee a few years ago, they confirmed this. Some random thoughts based on past experiences:

Are the coupler trip pins hitting the magnets? This is the usual source of grounding.

Aside from the issue of the BtB and brake rodding (check  that it is in all the slots and not skewed), are any electrical wipers coming in contact with the magnet?

The magnet has to be centrally located.

If this is not a Kadee magnet then you need to check the thickness compared to the KD one and adjust the height to make sure the clearance between the trip pin and the magnet is correct.

A low KaDee coupler pin will usually slide over turnout frogs without being noticed. Running over a long magnet is another story. 

Sloppy coupler pockets/hinges on the locomotive will allow the coupler to droop. The triangular part of the hinge should be a tight fit in its slot, if not it will slide down and the coupler will droop. Try reversing the hinge, it is handed with a small knob on one side that means it has two heights. The cure here is usually a cut-down #5 with gear box or similar, not the NEM ones. I have had this issue with both Hornby and Bachmann locomotives. Tension locks are fine with a bit of droop, not so for KaDee.

Does the M7 have a low gear cover base plate?

The Kadee system is an integrated one, use the jigs and tools that are meant to be used with the couplers, including at a minimum the coupling height jig, the centering jigs for the magnets and the pliers for changing the height of the trip pins. Buying the couplers and winging the rest usually leads to problems…Pandora's box in fact.

Nigel

Does the M7 have Kadee couplers fitted?

Bill

Hi Nigel.  Thank you for your reply. I was half way through answering you, when I lost as far as I got. Now the battery needs charging. I will get back to you . Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Nigel.    Thank you for your reply. My M7 was not purchased as a Shunting Loco. I purchased the Hornby Push Pull pack long before the M7. And the idea of using the former programme track as a branch/ part of/ line only came about so that I could run either the Hornby set or Hornby 2 BIL or 2 HAL and Bachmann EMU’s. Furthermore I intentionally removed the hook from the tension lock coupler at the front of the M 7 as it was unnecessary being part of the Push Pull Set. Incidentally all my 0-6-0 Locos of which there are many passed over the Kadee uncoupler without faltering.As it happens I have been considering the Kadee electromagnetic uncoupler, I don’t know if there is anything untoward about it that yourself or any other members of YMRC are aware of before I proceed with this project?
Another project that I am considering is a “ DC micro layout “ and maybe I will be able to run a Pug and something suitable? Or even a narrow gauge micro layout?   Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Bill.   Thank you for your reply.  No, well anyway not Kadee, of course it does have a tension lock between itself and the carriages, but, I removed the hook from the leading tension lock.   Best wishes Kevin 

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

.As it happens I have been considering the Kadee electromagnetic uncoupler, I don’t know if there is anything untoward about it that yourself or any other members of YMRC are aware of before I proceed with this project?

Using Kadee electromagnet  for uncoupling ,requires a good 18v DC 3 amp supply like a laptop type that is regulated

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=13783&forum_id=6

Hi Ron.  Thank you for your reply. “18 volts DC 3 amp supply “ ?  That could be a stumbling block. Is there anything else that I should be aware of ?    Best wishes Kevin 

Er. a small mistake, should have read it again before posting
16v DC . not 18v
you may get away with a minimum 1.5A
https://www.kadee.com/html/309ins.pdf

Hi Ron. I do have various “ wall warts” but they only go up to 12 volts. That would have to be another thing for the shopping list.   Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,


16v DC, 3 amp. Or 18 v AC,  2 Amp with a DC rectifier. A veritable dinosaur that requires major track work. The Rapido one is smaller and a lot less power hungry as it uses a rotating magnet. 

Did you have a look at the M7? If an old one does it have metal tension locks? Steel? From your post I was assuming a KD equipped locomotive, sounds like a tension lock one from your latest post. Check the clearance of the hook.


Nigel

[user=1632]BCDR[/user] wrote:

Hi Kevin,


16v DC, 3 amp. Or 18 v AC,  2 Amp with a DC rectifier. A veritable dinosaur that requires major track work. The Rapido one is smaller and a lot less power hungry as it uses a rotating magnet. 

Did you have a look at the M7? If an old one does it have metal tension locks? Steel? From your post I was assuming a KD equipped locomotive, sounds like a tension lock one from your latest post. Check the clearance of the hook.


Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply. Have you reviewed your opinion of the Rapido from when you replied to my thread? Regarding the M7 , I did state that I had previously removed the hook from the “Leading Tension Lock” .Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Nigel.  Yet again, another reply. Today I gave my Adams 02 it’s maiden “ Voyage” . I had heard about a problem with the wheel gauge? And it had a problem.  But as it is another 0-4-4. loco could that be a coincidence that it required a bit of a push??? over the points. Have you got any ideas about this problem?  Best wishes Kevin