A restoration

Another second hand kit built loco purchased a few years back and overdue for an inspection. 




The body is whitemetal and is a Wills kit.

Not too bad at first glance and it even ran…sort of when I first got it.

My inspection today revealed:

- chassis is not square.

- rear bogie is poor and fixed with a swing link which I hate.  I think it's the wrong length too.

- my review of a drawing I have revealed that the wheelbase is incorrect, only by a mm or so, but still.  The chassis supplied is for a standard 0-6-0 and I suppose the compromise is acceptable to most folk.  I'm not most folk.

- the chassis frames were in dire shape having much of the material cut away for no discernible reason - salvaged from a previous model perhaps?

- happily, the motor/gearbox is Portescap - something I can use at least.

- I didn't check the wheels yet - fingers crossed.

So, tooth sucking for a few minutes.  No suitable chassis was forthcoming.  The dreaded words were invoked - scratch build.

I have some brass sheet, and using the old frame as a template, I marked and cut out new frames.  A lot of work this, but worth it I think.

I tack soldered the frames together and filed until they were identical (or as near as makes no difference)




You can see the remains of the old chassis.  I'll cut out the springs for use on the new chassis.

Next job is to mark the new frames for bearings, compensation and brake hangers.

John

Is your hair shirt in the wash, John? 

That little loco doesn't know how lucky it is.

Ha, I did say to someone in another thread that I'm frantically trying to catch up.  I go from from bone idle to full steam ahead.

John

The kit was originally designed to fit the standard Triang/Hornby 0-6-0 chassis and so the big chunks cut out of the brass frames were probably done to accommodate the Hornby XO4 motor or a derivative of same (as you suggested a recycling job as they wouldn't have needed such a cut out to fit the Portescap unit). I built one some time ago using an old pannier tank chassis re-wheeled with Romfords. (Note to self: Get on with it and put the transfers on). I still have the instructions in the box so if you want a copy let me know. Most body parts are still available from Wills as spares.

That makes sense.  Anyway, I'll bash on and see how things go.  I also agree that you should get on with it.

I'm considering knocking the body down for two reasons:

1)  I want to get into the cab to detail the backhead and

2)  I want to install a nut in the bunker floor to secure the bogie.

There doesn't seem to be much to the body.

John

Oh goody… I've pulled up a chair and got a nice single malt. You guys never cease to amaze me with your loco builds. Especially when they actually run at the end!

Carry on.

At the rate I work Marty, you'll end up smashed.

John

There is more than it looks John, although I can't remember there being a back-head supplied in the kit or a bunker front for that matter. Good luck anyway. PM me if you want a copy of the instructions, useful for part numbers if you need to contact Wills for spares.

John is very much into abuse…self-abuse that is…and this build is a perfect example of that.  :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

Yeah, you're right about that Gene.  Just spent a pleasant couple of hours tearing apart the body - oh the epoxy!  Pounds of the stuff or so it seems.  Before starting I put a pan of water on to boil and threw the body into that.  Had it been assembled with solder, it would have fallen apart - it didn't :sad:.

Bittern, I'll take you up on your offer of the instructions please.  Shall I PM you with my email?

John

How does one dismantle a body glued with epoxy John ?

[user=6]Petermac[/user] wrote:

How does one dismantle a body glued with epoxy John ?

Carefully Peter, very,very carefully….or dynamite.

Swearite helps some.  Actually, I have various attachments for my Dremel that wear away the epoxy.  The stuff doesn't bond so much as encase the material.  Once enough epoxy has been removed the pieces tend to part ways.  I did break a side but repaired it with low melt solder.:pathead

It took a lot of time to clean everything up, I want a pristine join surface for re assembly.  A curved Exacto blade is very useful for that.

I have a hard time believing this was built professionally - it's such a mess.  Crooked chimney too.

John

Peter. Soak it overnight in Cellulose thinners in a closed container left outdoors otherwise the place will stink of the thinners. That seems to make it a bit easier. Some paint strippers (Nitromoors) tends to soften it as well.
John. Yes please. Will scan the plans tomorrow in readiness.

I made a bit more progress today.

First the body as I mentioned was stripped.  I discovered a tin of paint remover and used that.  I was amazed to see the paint slough off within a couple of minutes:




All the major parts in pristine condition and awaiting re assembly.  The goop also dissolves glue.

I decided to do some more on the chassis:




I used the Sharpie to blacken the frames and then marked centers for my holes with the scriber.  When these were done I started to drill holes.  It's a good idea to drill holes gradually, increasing the dia. a step at a time.  I started with a 0.020" drill and increased to 0.032" for the brake hanger holes and compensation pivot hole.

Another tip if you are drilling metal with a fine drill is to lubricate it.  I usually use oil but my buddy at the Hobby Shop suggested I try soap - I did tonight and got all those holes done without breaking my bit - amazing!

I then used a 1/8" drill in my drill press to get the bearing holes opened up.  These were finished using the large taper broach until the top hat bearing (ID = 1/8") just fits in the hole.  Hard work this, the brass is fairly thick and there are two layers.  I am now the proud owner of a blister.  The drill bit is used between finger and thumb to debur the holes. 

Tacking the frames together is a good idea if you want the holes to be in exactly the same place on both sides.  You can't do this accurately later.

John

I'm also watching this with interest but locos are for the future I fear.  Got to get my head around coaches first. :roll::roll:

Thanks for the info on epoxy removal chaps.  I may need to do it myself one day …………….:thumbs

Peter, these things are quite an ordeal and I wouldn't be doing it if there was a RTR option.  Usually when I get the notion to do a kit (like the 4F and L&Y 2-4-2T) the manufacturers beat me to it.

This is such an interesting loco, it's worth doing.

John

More work on the chassis frames today.




Having suffered the pain of making holes for the bearings these were installed.  The rear bearing (near the notch) was soldered fully while the others were tacked.

I then set up my chassis jig (call me a cheat if you want) to the correct bearing centers.  The small pin will be used for the coupling rods.

Next I cut out the notches for the hornguides:




Now you know why I only tacked some of the bearings.

The horn guides and blocks are from High Level and very well engineered.  They are really intended for use with Continuous Spring Beam or CSB.  I've tried that and it is a real faff.  I'm not convinced it adds much more value than compensation, which I am doing here.

Getting the hornblocks to slide freely in the guides takes a fair bit of fettling and time.  They need to slide such that they fall out by gravity but shouldn't have any side to side slop.

Finally I installed the hornguides:




I'll make the rods tomorrow and I might even get the chassis assembled.  Marty get another malt poured.

John

That jig must be worth it's weight in nickel silver. 

Well, it wasn't cheap.  I had the whole family chip in for Christmas.  I'm not using it as it was designed, the developers must be jumping up and down with ire.

Like a lot of things I get involved with, I tend to develop my own tin pot ways.

I like the car restoration shows, like Wheeler Dealers.  Building a loco is quite similar.

John