Assembling Kadee Couplers

Kadee do say "Non-delayed or Delayed uncoupler" when referring to their in- or under-track magnets. As Sol said, the delayed ones are much wider and stronger. "Delayed magnet" is casual (short) speak for "the magnet that is used when delayed uncoupling is desired". The point is that if you want to perform shunting (switching or spotting here) you need a magnet that triggers the delayed function of the Kadee coupler. I'd like to hear from the folks who use the small neodymium magnets whether the delayed function kicks in reliably or whether they are just good for uncoupling and nothing else. One of those "good to know" items.

The Kadee system (and it is a system that works best with its designed components) was developed for North American HO and OO modelers, and was intended to be a replacement for Rapido-type coupers (which used ramps for uncoupling). It was never intended for UK OO use. It does however provide a very viable alternative to tension locks (which appear to be a development of the old Baker locks, although who came first is an interesting question) if used correctly. 

Nigel

[user=1460]jcm@gwr[/user] wrote:

Typical Americans, they never have got the hang of using the language properly, and don't get me started on their attempts at spelling!

Same could be said for the Brits these days. American English is not English English, same goes for French and Québecois, and for that matter Strine.

Spelling - that's the result of the Simplified Spelling Board in 1906. And we're talking about 300 words. Which made reading and writing a lot easier for a massive influx of non-English speaking immigrants.

Using the language properly? Anybody who has read "Coleman's Balls" and listened to David Coleman's commentary when Alberto Juantorena was running will appreciate the damage television "speak" can do.

Bit like Flemish and Dutch ("Flemish and Dutch are going down the path of mutual unintelligibility"). Probably best not to throw stones or criticize a language until you've lived it for a few years.

Nigel

Nigel, I am using the small neodymium magnets

as per  http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8481&forum_id=6

and find they work well and delayed.

Hi Sol,

Thanks, nice to know. Must be enough pull to activate the push part of the mechanism.

Nigel

Hi John.  I do understand that this is a well trodden path. But I have managed to assemble a Kadee #5 coupler, but I put it away, thinking that it would be okay. Later it was in pieces again? Is this normal? I thought that it was "Clicked" together and it would stay, should I have glued it?   Best wishes. Kevin

The original box for #5 couplers  part 232 , does not click & stay together, you need the part 242 which do click together.

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi John.  I do understand that this is a well trodden path. But I have managed to assemble a Kadee #5 coupler, but I put it away, thinking that it would be okay. Later it was in pieces again? Is this normal? I thought that it was "Clicked" together and it would stay, should I have glued it?   Best wishes. Kevin

Hmm, this did sound familiar:

Brossard wrote:

Can I assume you mean #5 couplings Kevin?  I agree they are a bit fiddly but not impossible.

Lay the phosphor bronze (not copper) spring on the flat or top piece of  the gearbox with the open end of the spring facing the lip end of the  top.

Put the coupling, with the trip pin up on the spring giving it a bit of a wiggle to seat it.

The really fiddly bit is to now put the other half of the gearbox on and  I guess this will have to come with practice.  When you finally get  everything together, splosh some plastic weld on the join and leave it  to set.  I use small plastic spring clamps for this.  I must have done  hundreds.

John


Well done getting your #5s together Kevin. Now you know how, good luck with the remainder of youe stock.

Bonne courage!

Bill

Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply.  Now I am totally confused. What is the difference with 232?Another thing occurs to me, a question that I floated a while ago. Some of my Dapol wagon and van stock which have NEM pockets  require work, the pocket at one end accepts the Kadee but at the other end it just pulls out.
Best wishes. Kevin

Not sure "sloshing" some plastic weld on the box is good advice Bill …………………….. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

Too much glue and it will soak into the draft gearbox and set everything solid.  I use it very sparingly.  :cool wink

Hi Petermac. Thank you.  Wise words indeed, it's not the Henry Cooper Brut advert. "Splash it Allove, Yeah" . No not with  glue you don't. . One could prevent the Kadee working properly.    Best wishes.  Kevin

Come on chaps, put your reading specs back on!  :)

I do believe if you revisit my above post, you will see that it was clearly quoting John's post No 2 of this thread, in which he pre-empted Kevin's need to know about glueing his Kadee #5s. The 'sloshing' of liquid solvent was given in good humour by John, in much the same style as my own sense of humour may have delivered it.

Don't let's forget that modelling is meant to be fun!

Best,

Bill
:cheers


  

Yes but I'm suffering from a flu-like cold Bill so currently have no sense of humour …………..you ask Liz !!!   :twisted: :twisted:

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply.  Now I am totally confused. What is the difference with 232?    ……………
Best wishes. Kevin

Kevin, 232 is the original box
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page232.htm

while 242 is the new box
https://kadee.com/htmbord/page242.htm

which was detailed in  http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8591&forum_id=156

I don't have a cold Peter, but I did become an orphan last month, so also haven't been at my best, although a sense of humour and the love of the good bride makes life worthwhile.

Chin up old chap and unlike glue, may your household be abundantly sploshed with good humour.

Bill 

Kevin, to hold Kadee boxes, you can use Crossover tweezers while gluing -  small amount of plastic glue each side using a needle to apply it.

Hi Ron.  Thank you for your reply. I have "High Viscosity Glue" on my shopping list, when I remember it.But I was worried about getting too much on.   Best wishes. Kevin

Hi Ron.   Thank you.   Crossover tweezers?? I'm pleased that I was seated (having recently suffered from a fall? And fracturing my hip and a vertebrae on my Lumber spine, when I googled the price of them.My question is , there are so many online some cheap and maybe nasty?? others a bit expensive, and the cost of at least "three OO wagons" .do I really need them and can I justify the outlay?  I shall have to wait till the next model railway show.  Kevin

Hi Kevin,

KD #3 pack containing 2 pairs of 148 medium couplers in a 242 gearbox, ready assembled. Screw through the hole in the middle. Medium length, center shank. DIY? The 242 gearbox has a snap lid, it doesn't need gluing if a screw is used. Whisker couplers save the trouble of messing around with the bronze box spring. Standard head whisker couplers come in short, medium and long, under-, center- or over-set.

Check out the KaDee website, it has all the details.

Nigel

Hi Nigel.  Thank you for you reply.   I will look into that. With UK outline and buffers, as you probably know, I require long buffers. Are these long enough without removing the buffers.   Best wishes. Kevin

Hi Kevin,

KD have all the dimensions on the website, but see below. Plus you generally have 2-3mm movement to adjust. Mid point of the knuckle is supposed to be level with the buffer head. Which is OK with sprung buffers. I used to have the KD 2-3mm longer than the head to allow the stock to go around curves. You have a better range of adjustment with the KD 362 NEM couplers, around 7-12mm.

Nigel