Brake vans

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I needed a few more N.E. brake vans for Maxmill - in fact, quite a few more …………..

I have 1 Bachmann offering and an old Hornby version bought at a show.  Whilst recovering after checking out the current Bachmann prices, I happened upon the old Airfix version, now in Dapol guise:



The Bachmann model is over £20 whilst the beastie above is a mere £5 odd ………………..

In spite of the mouldings being nearly as old as I am, I thought I'd try one out.

They are indeed in need of new tooling but, at the price, make up into quite a reasonable vehicle (using the 3ft rule)……….;-)

I've already made 2 and am about to start on another pair which will probably be enough for the time being.  That will total 4 brake vans for the price of 1 by Bachmann.  Naturally, they're not in the same league but I think they'll do.  See what you think as I build the next one. :thumbs

'Petermac
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If you are prepared to put in a little modelling work, such as filing down components to make them a bit finer, and adding separate handrails, plus decent wheels (OK that costs a little more), the old Airfix/Dapol vans produce very decent models.

My own recommendation would be to find original Airfix ones if you can, as the mouldings are a little sharper (the tools weren't as worn out then), and the grade of plastic was a little more rigid and easier to work with. 

Another advantage of starting with a kit is that it is much easier to modify to produce variants.

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Jeff Lynn,
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I agree with Jeff's comments there Peter.

The old Airfix tools are completely worn out now yet Dapol still re-use them and sell kits made from low-grade recycled plastic covered in flash and moulding glitches.

That said they do produce decent models but beware the quality of the material.  I have no objection to recycled plastic (in fact I'd choose to use it given the option) but these kits are often made of the poorest stuff so must cost Dapol next to nothing to produce.

Rick
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Hi Peter,

I have 4 of these brake vans that I built from Dapol kits and they have been running on the layout for about 7 years now.
As Jeff has commented they definitely need decent wheels and they do run better with some added weight which can be hidden in the cabin.
I have fitted two of mine with working lights.

Dave
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All my kits have come with metal wheels (although no brass bearings) so maybe they've listened to the complaints ……………..:roll::roll:

I hadn't considered doing any mods to them Jeff - I just wanted some cheap brake vans - but might do some "smartening up" on future builds.  Not possible this time around because the cost of getting materials here would probably take the overall price up closer to the Bachmann prices, in which case, I'd simply buy Bachmann …………………:roll::roll::roll:

I do add some reasonably sized fishing weights in the corners of the cabin during the build because plastic kits are usually pitifully light - often so light that even couplings stuggle to couple properly ………….:cry:

'Petermac
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Ihave been running those same vans for many yrs,re-wheeled and lights in,enjoy Peter,
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

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Don't forget the 3ft rule Peter. 
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[user=364]Super D[/user] wrote:
Don't forget the 3ft rule Peter.

Now, now Derek - as you are well aware, in France, it's the "metre" rule ………..that's an extra 3 inches :cheers

'Petermac
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Following on from previous posts, this shot shows the masses of thin flash which has to be removed.  You'll see from the side panel, that the actual model isn't too bad - not as crisp as it might be but not really too bad (particularly using Derek's 3ft rule).  The flash is quite thin and easily sliced away but it's a prime example of badly worn tooling.




This shot of a sole bar shows quite clearly the warping in the fairly soft plastic.  Also, half the locating holes for the running boards, being not clearly defined, had to be drilled out and, on the reverse side, there should be little pips to locate the brake blocks - most of these were missing so positioning of the brakes had to be done by guesswork. I didn't bother getting rid of the circular marks made by the mould ejection mechanism (particularly noticable on the right hand brake blocks) - they can't be seen once it's painted matt black.
 


But please remember, these kits can be bought for around 20% of the cost of the Bachmann model.  Once made up, although they won't stand close scrutiny by rivet counters, they're not at all bad. ;-)

'Petermac
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Extra 3 inches make all the difference Peter.
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I'm sure that they will look good as you fine finish them, Peter.
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A little flashing never hurt anyone…. ooer :oops: :pedal

cheers

Marty

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I think Dapol now use the same wheels as they do on their ready to run stuff, which aren't too bad. I've found that by rounding off the sharp point on the ends of the axles they run quite well without bearings, but it's easy to fit the Romford top hats with a little drilling (carefully) and a dot of glue. If you are going to use screw or three link couplings take the moulded coupling blob off before you build the underframe. It's a lot easier.

I'm old, that's why I'm allowed to change my mind, when I can find it.

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I'm wondering how you rounded off the pointed ends of the axles Mick ……….:roll:  I attacked mine with a fine file but all it achieved was a very lumpy running (and tight) axle.  Fortunately, this particular pack had 3 axle sets included for some reason so nothing was lost.

I decided it wasn't worth setting up my airbrush to spray this 1 van so hand painted it (very badly) with acrylics.  I may well give it a spray over with the airbrush before a final coat of varnish because all the handling has rubbed much of the paint off.  Perhaps I should also have used a primer first but didn't have any on hand ……………:oops:

Here's the half-way stage.  The weights (lead fishing weights) have to be added to each corner inside the cabin and the fiddly running boards attached (which never seem to fit properly).  Has anyone got any idea why there are those cut-outs on the deck immediately behind the end wall ? :




And here she is finished (for now).  You can see how the paint has not only rubbed off with handling, but picked up every bit of dust.  You can also see once again, those odd recesses behind the end walls.  The brakes have a huge amount of travel to make up before they engage with the wheels ……….:shock::shock: but, at a 3ft viewing distance ………………………………:




With the guard installed but awaiting fitting of the Kadee couplings.  I may, or may not give her a blast with the airbrush :roll: :



'Petermac
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I think that they must be dummy speakers, Peter.  :roll:
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I meant the cut-out notches down on the floor Max.  The sticky out bits either side at around head height are lamp brackets - massively over-scale so I may well cut them off……….:roll:

'Petermac
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That hasn't scrubbed up too bad at all.

I'm unfamiliar with that particular lamp configuration and the guard's uniform but I never claimed to know everything!

Rick
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The lamp configuration is for a "Maxmill Express Down Goods" Rick ………………………..the "Up Express" has the same configuration but on the other end of the van. ;-)

The uniform is station porter of the above parish but he just happened to be handy …………….:cheers

'Petermac
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:cool wink

Rick
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Hello Peter.  And a very nice job you are making of this kit, may I say?  I have made some of the original Airfix Brake Van kits recently and they benefit from added glazing.  Regarding the cut-outs in the end platforms.  As you probably know, the standard British Railway design of brake van was derived from a LNER design (as were many BR wagons).  I suspect that the end platforms are actually slabs of concrete, used to add weight to the van for braking purposes. The use of concrete was begun by the LNER during the war because of the scarcity of iron which was previously used as ballast.  Interestingly, the concrete slabs on the LNER did not have the cut-outs and I can find no record as to why British Railways cast the slabs with said cut-outs thereon.   Probably just to be different!

Re the raised edges along the end platforms.  These are a rather crude representation of the handrails which BR adopted but were not present on the original LNER design.  I actually filed these off and replaced them with wire handrails.  They should rise vertically from just beyond the end of the platform (where there should be a slight lip protruding beyond the platform end on the prototype vehicle), perform a ninety degree turn and run a few inches above the platform to be fixed into the end sheeting of the veranda.  I can post a picture if anyone is interested.

If you want a bit of variation, you could remove the handrails completely and shorten the stepboards  to a point just past the axleboxes (about a third of the way along the end platforms).  This will give you a good representation of the original LNER design, some of which were actually built by British Railways.

Terry
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