Dipping a toe in the NG pond

Proper job Doug, well done indeed!

Lovely, Doug.  :thumbs

Nice job done well that man, whats next?

Pete.

Bravo. Nice solid base to hang the bits on. How does she run?

Marty

Hi, All,

Thanks for your encouragement. Well Marty, she goes up and down my 90cm of track quite well, I haven't lubricated anything yet as I have fittings, handrails and pipes to add so don't want any oily stuff around. I will advertise on the local wanted/for sale site to see if   anyone has a bit of N gauge track to make a running-in circle. I'm a bit nervous about taking my Dremel to it to fit things, I reckon I'll calm down a bit first. I managed to get some 0.4mm and 0.6mm copper and brass wire today at a craft shop in the jewellery and bead department, about £1 each for 10 metres, as I need about 10cm for this model, I'm set up for the next 20 years!

I've made poor start as last night I fettled and painted the safety valves, only to be unable to find them this morning, I think 'Der Unterbench-Fluffen Monster' has eaten them…..

Doug

[user=312]Chubber[/user] wrote:

I've made poor start as last night I fettled and painted the safety valves, only to be unable to find them this morning, I think 'Der Unterbench-Fluffen Monster' has eaten them…..

Doug

I had realised the dreaded monster had spread across the Atlantic…….mind you in North America ours are bigger and more voracious they don't appear to be just confined to unter my bench:twisted::twisted:

Super job on the loco Doug……..very impressive:thumbs


Best wishes

John

He's a bit like a multi-corporate… A global presence with several branches here in Aus too! Hope you find them.
Glad she runs well, enjoy the fettling.

Marty

Doug,
       Great looking loco; have you considered using liquid glaze as, having used this method myself, i can attest to its easy way of sorting this kind of job, and, if applied from the inside of the cab, you could paint the surrounding face to cut down any gloss you might think is left;-).
                                All the very best and regards……….Tom…….:);-):cool:

Thanks for that, Tom. I do have some Roket glue and glaze, but have never used it for glazing, is it convincing? I have made a 4mm hole in plastic sheet and tried it, it went every where!

I have 'brass painted' the spectacle plates, not very realistic, although it was Humbrol 'brass paint'.


Doug

Doug,
     The stuff i was thinking about and, have used myself in the past, is, called liquid glaze; have look on the net and i know you will find it; yes, it is very convincing, also, it looks milky to start with until dry then totally clear, Humbrol and the like do some……….


                                 Best regards …………..Tom……:);-):cool:

Thanks, Tom.

Doug

:thumbs

Hi Doug,

For those spectacles try model boat portholes or the etch from Mainly Trains. Both will be real brass. If you use the liquid glaze rotate the engine frequently through 360 degrees horizontal and vertical while it dries otherwise it will be thicker at the bottom. One of the jobs for when you are watching the t.v. Wear gloves, otherwise you will grease up the paint job. I use the Testors brand, you can even use white glue, although that seems to take longer and needs diluting.

Nigel

Never mind the loco Max, that shed's a masterpiece !

Well impressed.

Allan.

Hurrow!

Well, here we are again….Dennis posing outside the 'shed.

Little did I know, but  Der Unterbench-Fluffen Monster has an all- powerful ally in the form of 'Zer Vife-mit-Hooffer'. A messy search of the vacuum cleaner found my safety valves, now glued safely on.

Allan, thank you for your kind words, and as you can see, Tom and Nigel, I have had a go with the 'Glue and Glaze' [Roket products], it was really much easier than I thought it would be, I first ran a thin bead of the stuff around the rim using the handy fine nozzle supplied, and then dragged it across with a cocktail stick. After a few moments I rubbed off the tiny excess with the clean end of the 'stick and turned it around for a few minutes before letting it dry overnight.

I've just noticed thatthe cros-headslide has dropped, and will need tightening up…Oh poo!



Couplings will have to wait until I decide which variety I will use, as I am unlikely to build carriages I shall probably try to match up with Peco  products, buying the unliveried version of their Lynton and Barnstaple carriages.

I'm at a stand with the provision of handrails as the instructions say 'handrails are present on either side of the cab opening and from the cab front to the centre of the smoke-box, just above the tank top.'

Seems a daft place to put them, only the short length for'd of the tanks would be of any practical use?   I can't find any better drawings than I have to assist either.

The prototype cab opening handrails are secured at the top by extensions of the beading and at the bottom they pierce the foot-plating. As there was no provision on the castings for the upper fitting, I'm not sure what to do, but as this was originally an outside framed locomotive it is already grossly inaccurate, so if I put handrails either side of the opening I don't think OO9 modellers across the world are going to throw themselves on their modelling knives..

That's all for now, clack-valves and some representation of a pair of injectors next, cylinder lubricators and a whistle still to do,

Keep safe,

Doug

Going well, Doug.  :thumbs

It would make more sense if the handrails ran up each side of the doorway, to help one climb into the cabin.

Hi Doug,

Nice glazing and spectacles.

Bagnell's are something I know very little about, so the following could be suspect. See

Snailbeach District Railways

for a nicely detailed photo (plus brass dome and chimney).

The handrails would go inside the doorway with a right angle bracket at the top to meet the beading. There also appears on the photos to be a handrail at the top of the tanks that goes down the front face. To me it looks like the linkage to the injector. This would have ran from the cab from along the inside edge of the tank inboard of the water filler, and then come out at a right angle and then down at another right angle. Too thin to be a handrail. You could cobble one using an OO injector from Mainly Trains and some brass rod.

Plus there is another thin pipe running on the boiler/smoke box with what looks like a handrail stanchion, but I think this is also another pipe as it seems to enter the smoke box. Possibly a steam ejector pipe from the cab used when getting steam up. If there was a handrail there would have been a step on the front face of the tank, I don't see one.

There is also a lubricating valve at the bottom of the smoke box. Just needs a whistle at the front of the cab (bracket and pipe, bit of brass rod would look fine), and it will look the Beeze kneeze.

The door handrails are best dealt with using P/B wire, bent at right angles at the top and square faces filed on. Bit difficult to drill a hole in the footplate with the cab roof on, but it can be done. Attach top and bottom with CAA.  This when you find out whther the model matches the prototype door width. There is also a handbrake stanchion on the LHS of the cab.

Bemo couplings would probably be the best bet.

As you point out, the prototype had outside frames, which wouldn't be impossible if the mood every takes you.

Nigel

Thank you, Max.

Nigel, I have that photograph, still perplexing though.

I think the thin rod you refer to is possibly for a sander mechanism [pull/push]?

The fine pipe to the smoke box may be a blower, perhaps? I have the drop-link lever to add yet, cleaned up from the part in the kit, but those for the injector and clack valves are hopeless, I'll just 'free-lance' those.

I've had a suggestion of filing some pin heads to shape and uising those for the cab hand rails, but for the life of me I can't see any handrails attached to the smoke box.

Enough for today, bath and Countryfile time soon.

Thanks again,

Doug

Hi Doug,

Could be for the sander, but it looks linked to the injector. Could be in front of the injector though. The "handrail" stanchion looks like a shadow on closer examination. You may be right re a blower (ejector).

The following may help: http://www.archives.staffordshire.gov.uk/DServe/dserve.exe

 
  Date   Level    1  Photocopy of a blueprint of the Denniss engine for Snailbeach District Railway, by WG Bagnalls, engineers of Stafford


Real blueprints - that would settle the detail questions.

Nigel

Hi again, Nigel, sorry for the delay in responding. As you say, b'prints would solve it, but as previously said its mother won't recognise it, I'll go a bit freelance now, I did try the tank top strap in place but it looks horrid, so that's going too.

Herewith Dennis again with his windows glazed next to his first running mate, a Bachmann Thomas Skarloey fitted with a replacement smokebox door from CWR. THERE! I nearly did what I promised myself I would NOT do, start using TLAs [three letter abbreviations…tee hee] and perpetuate the NG mantra of '…if you don't know what it means, you should do…' I'm probably being unfair to the majority of the very nice chaps at the forums I visit, but see my introductory post…

CWR = CW Railways, a husband and wife team who do 3D printing of various nick-nacks and not just for narrow-gauge [http://www.cwrailways.com



The little red engine is designed for kiddies but runs on a lovely 0-4-2 chassis. 'Narrow Planet' are making some 'scale-ish' bits to make it more grown-up, nickel-silver connecting rods and cross-heads and some realistic, smaller cylinders.

Just this posy piccy for now, keep safe

Doug

PS We've had so much rain lately the ducks in my garden are wearing wellies…

Hi Doug,

You're obviously having fun, therefore doing it right, so well done! 

I've been a consultant in many client environments and was always amused to challenge the users over abbreviations as to their origins and then feign incredulity when not a single person knew what they stood for! The answer is of course ignorance.

A similar situation with the rain here, but sunny and calm at the mo, so I'll venture across the courtyard to do some work on the plank.    

Keep your head above water,

Bill :)