laying track direct onto baseboard

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bending track pins and making noise

Hi Ron            You are quite correct, but "Non Believers" will always judge ones "Mental Ability" to suit themselves, with phrases like "At his age playing with trains" and "He must be mad", but I'm a convert to "Operating"                      Kevin

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Hi Max                    Okay I'll go along with that                      ATB  Kevin

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Hi Marty           Nice to hear from you, I have got myself in a pickle with a plank, what is the difference between chipboard and multiple density board?? and what are the best dimensions for a plank?? 48" x 12" or 48" x 24" or somewhere between?? Even worse I bought some first radius points and now I have read that the Bachmann/ Graham Farish 08 0-6-0 shunter is unsuitable for first radius points.                                          all the best                   Kevin

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Hi Kevin if you are gluing the track down you could use drawing pins between the sleepers to hold down the track, as for plank size-how long is a piece of string? basically its down to available space, track plan, preferred modelled scenery- rural, urban,industrial etc also do you want a fiddle yard or build a puzzle where everything stays on the scenic area? the planks featured on this forum are varied in size style and presentation, my OO plank layout is 7ft long by 12" widening to 14" at the end, the scenic area is 4ft long, this suits me but maybe not others, if you can come up with a rough plan and throw it out for discussion I am sure there will be more than enough advice given for you to come up with a layout that suits all your needs! personally I would go for medium radius points for smoother flowing running, just my own preference.      


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Hi Pete            I was thinking about the "Old Formula"?? that I have read about and forgotten. If for example 48" x 12" was used and made "Light enough"?? to tuck under your arm, and get on a bus with it(as I don't drive) it would be handy to take to the local model railway club. With the rest of the kit in a bag, that would be great.              all the best  Kevin

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Take a quick look at post 41 on ng009 thread.;-)

reg
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Hi Reg             Thanks I will, but , where do I find that thread??:???:                     all the best  Kevin

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Hi Kevin, go to recent topics and scroll down about 12 threads and its there. Pete.

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Hi Reg and Pete                    I hope that you don't mind sharing my reply:oops: ?? The shunting puzzle that I wish to build, is intended to be dual purpose;-). When I am at home, either "Operating" or "Testing" but "Definitely not Playing with Trains", it can be connected to the main layout (Standard Gauge 00), and if I visit my local "Model Railway Club" and I get the dimensions correct and keep it portable I can Hop on a Bus, with it Tucked Under my Arm! Simple??                      all the best  Kevin

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Hi Kevin,

2' x 4', with the track and ballast and some scenics on you could be looking at 20-30 lbs (10-20 kg) depending on the wood used and its thickness etc. Plus you need some sort of cover for when it's wet. If you can find one of those long duffle bags with wheels and handle/frame that might do to transport a 4' long one around. Or a sturdy shopping trolley.

MDF weighs quite a lot. Chipboard I would steer clear of - if it gets wet it will crumble. 9 or 12mm ply (1/3" and 1/2" equivalent) works well. I use the Baltic stuff, regular ply (one side smooth) works just as well. HD foam slabs (closed cell insulation material) are light, but you will need a thin ply or MDF framing around the sides. Width - 15"-18" is a good compromise, especially if the club has standards for one or two track layouts.

I just checked my 1' x 5' plank (12mm Baltic ply frame and 9 mm Baltic ply top, 4" high sides and 12" spacing for the internal frames) - comes in at 15 lbs bare. I recon it will be 25-30 lbs with track, wiring and granite ballast. I use a collapsible light-weight dolly to move it around. It's not the weight that's the issue it's the length.

Nigel










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Hi Nigel                Thank you for your reply, I have been thinking about a thread, I think it was from Gary?? but not certain:oops:, but whosoever it was, made a "Lightweight Baseboard" with two sheets of thin Ply on a light framework. That could be both light and strong.And a way forward, No crumbling, and if the Ply is well prepared it could last and last??  ATB  Kevin

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