Thank goodness you are writing all of these hints and tips down…. I'd never remember them all when time came to building my own scalescenes constructions.

Having this "how I done it" as a future reference on this forum is invaluable and will stand many of us in good stead when the time comes.

By way of example: When the time came to have a stab at painting my backscene, my memory reminded me that MikeC (from Queensland) had done an excellent tutorial showing his professional work, a quick browse through the index and there it was, ready for me to re-read and then attempt… and attempt again… and again… until I was happy with the result.

All power to your fine tip applicator Doug… 

Marty

This shows the smart way the downpipes and gutters are made, the downpipe is a black covered projecting strip of card sandwiched between the gable end wall and the side wall. The gutter is a black covered, narrow strip of card glued to the top of each side wall.






My preferred method for downpipes is crease and make the fold for the inside texture, stick and allow to dry…





then glue stick the black bit and fold it over without creasing to deliberately leave a rounded fold to represent the pipe.




On the subject of scoring for folds, if you score a dark colour from the front, it can leave a whitish line on the fold, so score from the BACK. How? I hear you ask..

Well, prick through twice from the front on the  fold line, then..





turn over and score down the line between the two little holes.






Covering the little bits of guttering [they are all separate pieces] can be a PITA but here's tip to do it relatively painlessly…

cut each one out, score where shown [see above], tuck the extra bit under a steel rule held fast by blue tack, apply glue to the underside and edge of the card…




press up neatly with a little block of MDF and after running a little glue where needed, fold down the tiny strip with something suitable, thus and roll flat or press flat.




Thats all for tonight, it's been a good evening with the telescope, too with a rising pink moon, Venus, Uranus and Mars all stuck together in the west, and a perfect obs of 4 Jovian moons, Mega-poop-poop!

Doug

That hint about pricking and scoring the underside is one of the best, of the many, tips you have given me over the years:thumbs

At the start of the thread you mentioned kit bashing the kit……I seem to remember a cottage hospital or similarquest:

Is the progress so far as per the kitquest:

Sorry for the question marks my laptop has adopted french mode……instead of a question mark I get é              :roll:

Try Alt 168, John.  You'll get an Aussie question mark.  ¿

Best I can do . . . 

Aussie QM ! Tee-hee.

That's right John,  It's been a try-out for a kit bash, so far all I have done is miss off the flat roof extension at the back, no doubt added in the 60s to house the lavatories.

I now understand the relationship between the major components and as a kit of parts this model has a huge potential,  though I'm not currently planning anything in particular.

Doug

Hello,
This really is a master class and some of the tips are so simples us mere mortals would never think of them (well me anyway)a big THANK YOU!! (just to make sure you can hear me in France Lol
Regards
Stephen

'Allo 'Allo!

All received 'ere in Fraunce,

Murky Buckets,

Doug

   Good Moaning

Now, I'm at the bit I worry about…. putting on the roof panels. I have printed them out on 140gm watercolour colour paper, but sadly I made a coc&-up and didn't re-align my print heads after replacing the black and red cartridges so it's not as crisp as it should be.

I cut each panel 2mm outside the outline. I greatly admire John Wiffen's draughtsmanship, but sadly he does not have a Chubbsey Fudge Filter built into his downloads and I like to have a little trimming to do. Should I need a bit extra 'printed'area I can always busk it with a pencil and watercolours, but I can't glue another bit on after cutting to [under] size.





Reasonably pleased with this elevation, gable tiling and main roof aligning quite well, and a parallel gutter line margin. You might have guessed that by now I have done one or two card models, but believe me, where I have two distinct ends, two gutter cut-aways, a chimney stack and an outside wall overhang, I draw a rough diagram with a pencil, showing all the contingent edges and mark a proposed cut line on my drawing.

Then I carefully consider whether cutting a little off a right-hand side will slope the whole thing too far to the right or if a little part of the roof is too tight between a gable and a wall end shall I cut a bit off the left or right of the 'tight' part.

Waffle woffle wiffle…basically, before I cut a bit off of one side of something I try to work out where the results will show up.

'Nuff for now, home made crumpets, Normandy butter and home-grown strawberry jam, now ready to EAT!!

Plump Chubbs

I would be well pleased with that result Doug. I don,t think i have ever achieved such a good gable join as that shown.
Well done, that,s chubbly chubbly.:thumbs

Superb stuff as per usual Doug.Not only a great build,but some very valuable tips.Excellent!

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

I've just caught up with this one Doug but I'll read it all througfh very carefully when I have a little more time - there looks to be a lot to digest - and lots of tips to learn. thumbs

Fear not, I'll be back with my questions later …………..:cheers

[user=6]Petermac[/user] wrote:

I've just caught up with this one Doug but I'll read it all througfh very carefully when I have a little more time - there looks to be a lot to digest - and lots of tips to learn. thumbs

Fear not, I'll be back with my questions later …………..:cheers

AAaagghhhhhh….


Remember the Ying-Tong song? FX of feet disappearing in the distance..

Doug

Herewith something more constructive….

I struggled on last night fitting the roof panels, the bit I dread most. One of the roof parts ends in a small triangular point which seems to have nowhere to go when assembled, throwing that corner of the valley out of shape. I solved it by cutting of a small slice of the inner wall at 45 degrees as below.



I've had an email asking how I achieve smooth edges on things, here is a suggestion.  The first picture is of a gable end just after it was applied last night, the next the self-same part having been burnished this afternoon, that is, the [hopefully] flat edges/sides have been rubbed over firmly with the bowl and handle of a coffee spoon now the glue is completely and utterly dry. I think you'll agree it looks neater and smoother.










This something that can be done retrospectively all over the model, most wrinkles seem to pop up the instant you point a camera at them!

I have chosen to make up my own capping stones for the gables, using JWs TX33 Concrete Paths paper rather than those supplied. Nothing wrong with those supplied, just a personal thing.




I'll carry on for now, to complete the gable capping, cutting the sloped and horizontal portions separately rather than bending them. I'm in a quandary over the chimbley pots, I'd like something other than straight round pots so as to fit with the Edwardian theme, but don't wish to squander any SLW tokens buying any….

A lot of Edwardian style pots are octagonal, I wonder if you got some thick walled plastic tube of the corect internal diameter if you could sand flats onto it, then wrap with thin paper strips or cotton thread for a pattern before painting

You could get creative with some plastic rod or tube in the chuck of a drill clamped firmly, then attack the turning plastic with a file or other abrasive item, probably also work with metal rod, but take longer! That is assuming you don't have a lathe!

Other things you could do, again using plastic tube or rod (square or round) as a base cut a thin piece off the next size up of the tube and stick near the top or cut a piece of thin plastic strip and wrap round; if using square plastic cover it in brick paper.

To get some ideas for shapes, Google "chimney pot images" - every thing you could ever want, very plain to extremely ornate, quite a few could well be impossible to model, except  maybe with 3D printing

Andy/Mike, both good suggestions, I spent an hour last night having a go, twisting/scraping plastic rod etc…one is moderately easy, it's matching the next that is a PITA….

    

…the jury is still out. I need some to complete my old Bear's End Station of the same era, might just have to buy some….sob

Will you stop using the 'b' word Doug!

Instead of trying to make individual ones make one big long one for the main part of the pot that you can them cut into individual pots, adding top and bottom detail could be done in a similar matter by slicing up something longer to get consistency

I like the idea of 3D printed Edwardian chimneys. I've quickly knocked up a first rough.