New part work

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I've found that the 60W is ok for the thickness of material I'm using at the moment, but if it's any thicker I shove the metal under the grill for a few minutes to warm it up. Seems to work ok. A bit crude I know, but eh! it works. The bit does tend to oxidise a bit but I wipe it well between joints with an old fashion wire cloth or give it a quick scrape with an old modelling knife blade. Seems ok, it's not that I do an awful lot of soldering. The joints in this particular kit seem to go on ok.

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Just collected part 9, the first half of the outer chassis. If you are soldering the kit up the first thing you need to do is to solder in the screw in chassis spacers as in this issue you have to file all the heads off of them so they are smooth to allow the fitting of the outer chassis. More tomorrow when I get into it further but reading through the instructions there doesn't seem to be anything to upset the unwary (or am I jumping the gun there).

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I've found that with metal kits, there's usually a trap lurking somewhere.

John

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Further to yesterdays post. There is a snag. Thought there would be. The front bogie splashers are a pig to fit. It's one of those times that you need four hands and good eyesight. Will post some pics tomorrow when I've fitted the last one and cleaned everything up.

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What did I say about traps?  Maybe by tomorrow you will have evolved the extra hands.

John

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Sorry delay but have been out filming. Herewith the pics of the chassis construction so far.



Front end showing motion bracket, splashers and buffer beam bracket. Note axle bushes soldered in as well.







Rear end of chassis with rear bogie housing.







Inner and outer chassis joining for rear bogie.







Motion bracket and front splashers







Front end so far. Once the cylinders have been screwed in place the gap between the two chassis pieces will close up.







That's it till next weekend.

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Hi Bittern,

 A very neat job. You've obviously done this before.

Great stuff

Toto
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Once or twice Toto. The trouble is the fingers and eyes are not as good as they were.

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Hi bittern,

They are not letting you down from where I am standing. However, I'll take your word for it. These things tend to creep up a bit. Just keep them supple …….. I prescribe beer for that job ……… Lots of it.:mutley

Good to see this coming together,

Cheers
Toto
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Don't touch the stuff Toto. My tipple is tea, by the gallon.

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Part 10 now to hand. Starting it tomorrow as it's too wet to go anywhere. Pics later.

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Part 10 bits now sorted and put into place. No problems apart from those mentiond in Part 9. I have put a set of wheels on it so far and it runs very freely. (Borrowed the wheels from an A3 kit, and also put up a pic of the thing with the body resting on and a tender (again the latter from the A3) to give some idea of progress.

Chassis from above



Chassis from below



With wheels



With body and tender



Next weeks parts are for the backhead (don't ask why, These part works run in a wierd and wonderful way) so will see you then.

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Hi Bittern,

Looking excellent. It's great seeing this come together.

Toto
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Collected week 11 today and not a lot to be done this time. The parts contained the backhead casting and a load of wire. What needed doing was the drilling of a lot of holes and filling 6 of them with square section brass rod to represent the wash-out plugs. The drilling was an absolute pig as the casting is in mazak and one of the holes is about half an inch deep. The six holes that have to have the square rod inserted was no real problem but I did find that be filing the end of wire square each time and putting it into the hole from the rear was easier that attacking it from the  front. Next week is some more detailed parts of the backhead.



See you all next week with another thrilling installment.

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Part 12 done today. It was fitting the water gauges, injectors and brake valve and drilling out a hole in the front of the body to fit the brake hose later in the build. The water gauges and injectors are handed so be careful with them. The water gauges have to be drilled but the instructions are very vague and the parts look a lot different to the ones shown in the photograph. They need a 0.5mm hole drilling in the base for the pipe but there is no obvious place to drill it so I decided to put it on the underside at the bottom. The two injectors need 2 x 1.1mm holes drilling in the underside for the pipework later. This is fairly obvious. You don't need to drill too deep as it is only to hold the end of the wires (pipes). The brake valve also needs drilling with 2 x 0.8mm holes. Theses are marked and again are to take pipes. Once these parts are glued into the back-head you have to use a piece of 0.7mm wire to form a pipe that goes into the lower hole on the brake valve. This is shaped and glues into the hole on the valve and then cements onto the front of the back-head so the pipe looks about vertical. Be careful when snipping the brake valve off of the sprue. It is not clearly marked where you need to cut but if you leave about 5mm of round after the thicker flattened part of the valve that should suffice. I didn't but I managed to get away with it. The 1.5 mm hole on the front (its position is marked) is for the brake pipe holder. Just make sure it fits into the hole and then put it somewhere safe till later. I put it in with the lamp brackets as it will be fitted in properly at the same time. I won't put a pic up of today's work but will when the rest of the back-head proceeds, which should be next week.

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I'm glad you know what you're doing! It sounds tricksy to me!

Marty
N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
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Still following along, Mick.  :cool:
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Got the next lot of bits today. It is a few more valves etc. for the back-head and some pipework for the front of the body. Will be doing this over the weekend as I have a Stamp Fair tomorrow and going filming on Friday. This could change if the weather deteriorates.

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Sorry for the delays. Now have the latest installments for you.



The backhead so far. This went reasonably well but there are lots of little holes to drill in some of the fittings. They don't tell you if they have to go all the way through, except on the Regulator Brackets so I only opened them out a little bit as they only have to take the ends of wires to represent the pipework.







The loco body. The main Injector pipe was fairly straight forward but the smaller Smoke box pipe was a bitch to get the shape right. I think it looks about there. The instructions on the shaping of this bit is very vauge. Part of the tasks was to fit the small handles on the drop down plates on the bdy but as these are likely to get in the way for other stages I'm leaving them till the end of the build.







Another view of the loco body.







The final task was to fold up the tender Inner chassis. I havent soldered it yet as there looks like there are bits to fit inbetween  the frames so until I get them I'll hold on.







Next weeks bits are the cab roof (don't ask me why). This will be built and put to one side until later on the build as it will be easier to fit the backhead assemblies etc with the roof off.



Catch you all next time.

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This is coming along very well indeed. The pipework looks neat as does the backhead.

John

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