This is getting silly

I just finished the windows.  They fit very precisely.  I found that if I had paint on the window surrounds, it had to be scraped off.  These LaserGlaze windows are a very good product.

After the Future (old Kleer I think) has dried, I need to add the security bars.

John

I bought some plastic kit built Gresley teaks from the Bay with this thread in mind John.   They need "repairs/replacements" on the underframes/bogies so I'll be swatting up on this thread and your other LMS one.

Who knows, I might even have a bash at brass running gear ………………:roll::roll::roll:

That Laserglaze sounds like good stuff. :thumbs

Good on ya Peter.  Hope all goes well and I'm here if you need help.

ShawPlan don't have LNER (Kirk kits?) on the list, but Brian Hanson seems friendly and helpful.  When I asked about the Bachmann, ex Mainline LMS fullbrake windows he seemed ready to do them.  Not there yet.

John

 

Well, I've had it with the Dapol body!  I thought I had cracked it the other day but when I took pictures, I found that the door vents were crooked.  My attempts to fix only made things worse.  I think the only way forward for the plastic body is to strip it down and start over again.  My standards are writing cheques my skills can't cover.

I may revisit it some day, but for now, I'll do the Comet body.  I bought the Stove R kit a few weeks ago and opened it up today. The kit contains parts for an underframe but I am supremely happy with the underframe I already built.  All I have to do is build up the body.

The parts involved:



The sides and ends.  I don't even need the bufferbeam.  I've drilled holes for hinges in the sides along with enlarging half etched holes for handles.  I like that the droplights are half etched, saves a bit of work.

I'm really coming round to the position that brass is easier to work with than plastic.

John

And all that will remain of the original coach is the memory …………………:cheers:cheers:cheers

Good grief John, you seem to be on a roll…………….thumbs

How thick are those brass coach sides ? Judging by the holes you've drilled for the handles and hinges, they have some "meat" about them. :roll:

Well, as I say Peter, I may revisit it some day.  Lesson learned, if anyone wants to do a major upgrade to the Dapol model, don't.  Sell it and make the Comet kit.  This was the advice given to me on RMWeb and, blast it!, they were right.

Now I've just been comparing drawings and photos to the Comet kit and there are errors.  I'll point these out as I go.  The Comet underframe instructions for the layout of brakes etc. are quite wrong, IMO.  I think mine is closer to being right because I used actual LMS drawings.

The real coach was paneled but the sides, as you can see, are plain.  There's no mention in the instructions or the coach building pamphlet (on Comet's website), about this.  I'll figure it out.

Side thickness?  Something like 0.018" I think, it varies from kit to kit.  One advantage of brass is you get a more realistic side thickness than with plastic.

John

 

I got the body assembled tonight:



Here it is sitting on the underframe and a nice fit too.  That solder in the shape of an arch is pre-tinning because I have whitemetal gangways to solder on.

John

Coming together quite quickly John:thumbs

A load more progress to day Reg.  A few more things to do and I'll post a piccie.

John

 

I got most of the end detailing done today:



I have to re-do the curved handrail on the other end.  I got smart this evening and made a jig - I'm anticipating having to do several coaches with this feature.  Note the handrail on the opposite side.

That whitemetal cast suspended gangway is pretty ugly but I think it will look OK when painted.  The first one was difficult to solder just right, but the other one right first time. :roll:  Note the suspension brackets at the top.  I used these since the van will be stand alone.  For coaches in a rake I'll use folded paper flexible gangways.

There's a handrail on this side of the gangway and I made a lever for the other.

I made lamp brackets - you can see one just to the right of the lower step.  The instructions had these in the wrong place.  You can also see the jumper cable (2 per end).  The lower hole for these was in the wrong place too.  These are no big deal but underline the need to have a drawing and photos handy.

I also fitted the duckets.

John

Must have been a bit of a fiddle John,but you have made a nice job of it.:thumbs

I think that's a super job John. :thumbs

I don't actually think the connection looks too bad.  I'm sure, once painted, it will look good - they weren't the prettiest of things in real life ……………:roll::roll:

Inmteresting that even Comet got things wrong - they're supposed to be the experts so what chance is there for the rest of us ………….? :hmm

Everything's a fiddle but it's nice to think that you are making parts that add the extra detail.

Comet probably used whatever source was available at the time - this model was designed quite a while ago I think.  Anyway, as I said, always try to have some good resource material yourself.

John

Since i have lost count and out of idle curiosity,how many EM gauge are now in your fleet John when you complete this?

Wagons and vans?  I've lost count but probably around 30.  Of course you can't have too many.  I still haven't finished any EM locos although I've started a couple.

I was just round at Nigels' with Dave to pick up his baseboards.  I had planned to construct new boards that had a chance of being transportable.  I think Nigel's been to the same school of building baseboards like brick sh**houses that I went to (all birch ply- a bargain though).  They are heavy! :shock:

Now I have no excuse.

John

 

ahhhh…need a trolly for the new layout then….. great.
30 vans and wagons? yup..time to build something to run them on then…no more procrastinating…lay track!!!!!!

Maybe two :hmm.  A permanent circuit and something small that can be exhibited. 

BTW I didn't write "doodoo..", I was censored.:It's a no no

John

 

AHhhh thanks Gene, so it must be this "procrastinating" what's holding me back. Well I've got some track down and few other bits and piece's in place. I want to figure out the distance to put the telegraph poles apart next, I thought I'd get them in place, then I can work on the ground scenic. Oh buy the way don't hold your breath for any photo's, our cameras like me 'old and knackered'.  

I've been replacing the whitemetal gangway with a plastic item that I found in my spares box.



I'm a bit happier about this.  The picture is a bit dark, but I do have door detail which was missing with the whitemetal version.
Most of the pictures I've seen show the gangway open so I didn't want to use the gangway barrier.

I next have to do the panel beading on the coach sides.  I'm thinking that plastic strip secured with cyano is probably the best (well, the only way I can think of) option.

I have finished the roof.

John

I did the beading this evening:




Verticals are 0.040" x 0.010" plastic strip.  Horizontals are 0.020" rod.  All secured with cyano.  The second bead down was tricky because it's in pieces - being interrupted by hinges.

John