DCC wiring advice required

Hello guys, I am a complete beginner and have recently committed to my first build of my N gauge DCC layout.
I've already built my baseboards 6ft x 3ft and began my journey with a Graham Farish DCC Cornish Riviera Express train set with the EZ Digital Controller and additional Peco set track purchased to enable a circular 3 line layout with a number of left and right hand Peco points leading to a fiddle yard area.
I've already found that I can provide power across al three lines with simple jumpers across the points and it's my intention to run multiple locos although I've yet to do so.
My question is, as I'm using set track, do I need to solder dropper wires to every individual section of the track and feed these to a BUS wire to ensure continuous power?
Is it simply that that is best practice or is it essential?
Any guidance is much appreciated, particularly as I originally had the impression that DCC would avoid the need to do so.

Tony, it is best practice especially as metal fishplates/joiners tend to get resistive & DCC does not like that In my opinion using Setrack is better than flex track metal joiners as normally Setrack joiners are crimped onto the rail & thus less chance of problems that is assuming you do not pull it up between running sessions.
Permanent layouts using Setrack, I would add droppers every other piece of Setrack if you do not intend to add ballast & glue it with watery PVA because in time the watery PVA has been known to start rusting metal joiners - not a good thing
The other reason for droppers on all rail is that an area can have many locos on the move at the same in DCC and so draw more current so the droppers to the main bus, spread the electrical load over all rail & joiners.

Hi Tony,

If it's not too late switch to flex track, that way you will be sure that you have minimal resistance and  maximum continuity. If you stick with set-track don't depend on rail joiners for continuity unless you solder them. Droppers every 3 feet either way. When I had an OOn-9 layout I used flex for the straights and sets for the corners (all soldered) as the radii were tight.

A good high quality PVA glue will not be acidic, which can affect solder joints and cause ballast discoloration. Cheap PVA is often acidic due to incomplete neutralization of acetic acid generated during the manufacturing, avoid it (get some litmus paper and check it). 

Nigel

Thanks for the sound advice - best I get practicing with the soldering iron then tee hee