What kind of glue

I'm busy building a kit building and have etched brass windows that need fixed into brass frames.

Which type of glue is best ?

Cheers

Toto

Hi Tom,not that i know much about glues but would superglue be best for that?,due to it's viscosity.

Hi Alan,

I'll give it a bash. I have an impact type glue here which as far as I am aware is more or less the same. Can't do any harm on brass I wouldn't think.

Cheers

Toto

If it's brass to brass I'd be inclined to use solder paste, you paint it on exactly where you want it, then apply the heat,

For brass to card I use PVA, I have used Superglue, but where possible I like to have a bit of time in which to adjust position, with solder if necessary you can reapply heat if you need to adjust position.

One tip for super glue with windows and doors etc, if possible postion the items and hold in place with a spring clip or clamp on one side/end, apply a spot of super glue to the other side, when that is set remove the clip and glue the other sides

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the tip, re clamping one end. Works a treat as I used Cyno type contact adhesive.
Seems to have worked ok with no I'll effect. I've never used solder paste but that may be something I will try as I have a fair amount of these windows to do for various kits over the next wee while.

Cheers,

Toto

I use Evo-stick 'Serious Glue' which is a clear contact type adhesive. It has the advantage of allowing a few minutes of 'movement' time compared to superglues but gives an excellent bond between brass and either card or plastic.

[user=1505]toto[/user] wrote:

I'm busy building a kit building and have etched brass windows that need fixed into brass frames.

Which type of glue is best ?

Cheers

Toto

 

Hi Toto.

First, the windows that you are using, do they have a locating tap iether side as do ALL Scalelink etched windows?

Anyway, I use these by the truck load and use Evostick Impact but I have found that the best way so as to avoid glue overspill is to run a small fillet of the glue down each side at the back of the window aperture, and when it has congealed just carefully position the window behind the aperture and gently press it home into the glue then as an extra hold, either run some tape down the location tab or run another small fillet of Evostik along the edge of the locating tab.

I've glued literally thousands of etched windown in place this way and have never as yet lost a single one to gravity !

Cheers.

Allan.

Hi guys,

Cheers for the Evostick top.

Initially, the brass windows have to be glued to a brass outer frame. Once set and dried, they are then glued into a rebate in the plaster cast. The rebate is a good snugg fit.

I've glued the brass to brass using a contact adhesive but the egos tick may be better for joining brass to plaster.

Alan, are your brass windows a two pieced affair or do they come as a single unit ?

Cheers

Toto

A good all round glue that will stick almost anything to anything is false finger nail glue.

 It is a type of CA glue but does not go off in bottle and also does not fog clear windows etc.

 Cheers

  Ian

[user=265]Iansa[/user] wrote:

A good all round glue that will stick almost anything to anything is false finger nail glue.

 It is a type of CA glue but does not go off in bottle and also does not fog clear windows etc.

 Cheers

  Ian

That's a useful tip Ian. thumbs  CA fogging windows is a well known problem.  Apparently it's the fumes over a period of time rather than overspill when fixing.

I must get some when I buy my next can of hair spray and make-up brush…………………:roll::roll::roll:

[user=1505]toto[/user] wrote:

Alan, are your brass windows a two pieced affair or do they come as a single unit ?

Cheers

Toto

They come as a complete unit and below is a picture illustrating Scalelink doors - and one (!) window as that is all I have at the moment.
Cheers.

Allan

 

Do you apply the evo stick glue with cocktail stick or similar Alan?

Hi Alan,

Good stuff,

As I said it was a two part affair for me. I've glued them all together but I will have more with the other kits so I'll take a couple of pictures and post to let you see them. I think they look really good and they also give a sense of depth ( scale depth of course ).

The chap at Townstreet supplies them with his kits but I don't know where he gets them. Maybe someone will recognise them when I post them and be able to ID the manufacturer.

Anyway,

Thanks again.

Toto

[user=31]sparky[/user] wrote:

Do you apply the evo stick glue with cocktail stick or similar Alan?

No, straight out of the tube - very carefully. Just try and let it run out at its own pace, DON'T squeeze the tube too hard !

Cheers.

Allan.

OK Thanks Alan.

Hi,

There is a clear glue that is used by Watchmakers - that is 'G-S HYPO CEMENT GLUE 9ML' - it is available from Squires but can still be bought on E Bay. at £3.44 with free post. it is not a large tube being 4" long. (squires charge £4.99).

Evo stik can be used round the outside edges with care (use a toothpick), and both glue will not fog clear plastic.

Yours Peter.