Humbrol weathering
Posted
#153263
(In Topic #8556)
Full Member
I have just watched the Humbrol you tube regarding weathering locos.The demo shows matt varnish being sprayed on the wheels and motion,surely that can't be right as it would clog it all up and would be a nightmare cleaning it off.
Bill
Posted
Full Member
When I weather, I start by airbrushing matte acrylic dirt followed by black. This gives a good overall weathered look. I then use powders to highlight details. I don't use varnish because I find it tends to wash the powder off.
To your point, I spend quite some time after completing the weathering getting the loco to run again - the wheels being coated with paint. However, a Qtip and window washing liquid (the blue stuff) takes acrylic paint off easily.
Here's one I did for a friend. The streaks and dirty underframe are done with powder. Full disclosure - I haven't used Humbrol products for weathering.
John
John
Posted
Full Member
I use enamals extensively for painting and weathering, both Humbrol and other makes. The trick is to spray very light coats and build up subtle graduations. It is easily removed from wheel treads with a glassfibre brush or cotton bud dipped in thinners. Have you watched all of the Humbrol weathering videos, by the way, because they show how to mix their weathering powders with Mattcote (permanent) or Decalfix (removable) which avoids the problem altogether.
Regards
Mythocentric (The other Bill)
Last edit: by Mythocentric
Ooh! Look! The end's fallen off!
Colour In The Real World
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_forum.php?id=175
Buildings For Slitheroe
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10981&forum_id=14
Colour In The Real World
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_forum.php?id=175
Buildings For Slitheroe
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10981&forum_id=14
Posted
Full Member
Bill
Posted
Full Member
Sorry for the delay. As long as you keep to light coats it should be fine. Applying powders the Humbrol way means you can put them exactly where you want them and avoid most of the problems.
I also find that, when weathering the motion, etc, using a Peco wheel cleaning brush gently (the powered one) to turn the wheels a couple of times gets most paint off the tyres while it's still fairly soft, and also helps prevent seizing.
Regards
Bill
Ooh! Look! The end's fallen off!
Colour In The Real World
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_forum.php?id=175
Buildings For Slitheroe
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10981&forum_id=14
Colour In The Real World
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_forum.php?id=175
Buildings For Slitheroe
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10981&forum_id=14
Posted
Full Member
Sorry for the delay. As long as you keep the coats fine it should be OK. Using a first coat of varnish for loose powder weathering should be absolutely minimal. Just enough to provide a key and no more.
Regards
Bill
Ooh! Look! The end's fallen off!
Colour In The Real World
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_forum.php?id=175
Buildings For Slitheroe
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10981&forum_id=14
Colour In The Real World
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_forum.php?id=175
Buildings For Slitheroe
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10981&forum_id=14
Posted
Full Member
RegardsBill
Posted
Full Member
Regards
Andy
Posted
Banned
What do most modellers use to lock in/seal the final weathering of powders (to stop the powders coming off during handling) ? Or what is your preferred method of sealing ?
I use an artists matt finish acryllic sealer over weathering powders. I also use this on printed papers. Please discuss.
Cheers, Gary.
Posted
Full Member
I've previously steered away from powders for that simple reason - they come off when you touch them! However, I've been experimenting with the Humbrol powders recently and their method of mixing with Decalfix (removable) or Mattcote (permanent) and I must admit I'm highly impressed with the results! I don't see any reason why the same method couldn't be used with other powders rather than overspraying which in itself can blow away much of the powder, or 'hide' it to some degree by introducing a 'filtering' layer. I'll be making a start on some new locos and stock soon and I intend to put them to use in combination with my usual airbrush techniques with the airbrushed paint replacing the initial matt varnish coat.
Regards
Bill
Last edit: by Mythocentric
Ooh! Look! The end's fallen off!
Colour In The Real World
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_forum.php?id=175
Buildings For Slitheroe
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10981&forum_id=14
Colour In The Real World
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_forum.php?id=175
Buildings For Slitheroe
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10981&forum_id=14
Posted
Full Member
http://www.humbrol.com/shop/weathering-powders/washes/
These look quite good.
Bob
Last edit: by Bob K
Posted
Full Member
Wagon before the weathering, I sprayed it with matt varnish and allowed it to dry for 24 hrs.
First coat of powders applied, in this coat i mixed a dark brown & black
The next couple of pictures show where I added the finer detail, firstly I dusted over the whole wagon again with a light brown then with a dark rust colour put in the rust run marks. After that I added the spillage from the fill covers and frames with an off white.
Last edit: by Lydford Road
Posted
Full Member
Bill
1 guest and 0 members have just viewed this.