Making a mimic panel or unable to

Hi All.   I have been faffing about with two planks for so long, and now all the points work, by wire in tube. But I keep forgetting to change the points, real signalmen/ women have a big panel in front of them above the frame.And my WIT control doesn'tt allow for that (obviously) now that is a PITA and gives me a problem, derailments and crashes. Whereas if I had interlocking I wouldn't have that problem. if I had chosen another system? I don't even know if there is one for Model Railways. Or at least if I have a Panel with LED's that would let me know which way the points are facing, then perhaps that may work?   All the best. Kevin

I have a mimic panel which does exactly that for some of my points Kevin - the points I'm operating with servos via the Megapoints system. 

It works very well but there's quite a lot of wiring involved.  I'll take some photos of it later tonight if I get a chance.

Couldn't you just have a "check list" to work your way through ? 

e.g. Loco "A" from Siding B to Shed ………………

1.  Set point No 1 "on"
2.  Set point No 2 "off"
3. Set point  No 3 "on"
4. Set loco to run forward
5. Move loco …………………………………

Hi Kevin,

It should be easy enough to incorporate a SPDT slide switch with 2 LEDs (red/green) that is activated by the movement of the wire.

Nigel

Hi Petermac. Thank you for your reply . The fact is that it should be simple, afterall I arranged the controls. So I should be able to work it out  but I am forgetful . Then again it is a "Puzzle Plank", and it certainly has me puzzled.All the best. Kevin 

Hi Nigel.  Thank you for your reply. I would agree with that idea , if I was using " Bicycle spokes" or a similar solid wire like the coat hangers from the Dry Cleaners. But the wire that I am using is like Music Wire.Being that I am using DPDT slide switches , I have been trying to figure out how I could utilise the three spare pins on each switch. It would probably require a separate supply, a common return and , that's the part I'm not sure of.
All the best. Kevin

Hi Nigel.   I have been thinking about a mimic panel, and roughly it is like this (ish). Off the top of my Bonce.Beginning with the power source, the positive goes to the middle contact of the three spare contacts, (no idea about resistors or diodes etc.). Leaving the outside contacts to feed the LED's. Now depending which way the points are set
Determines which LED glows, of course the negative goes back to source . But it is the rest of the parts I dont know about.. All the best. Kevin

Kevin, how to connect LEDS
http://brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical%20page%202.html#LEDs

quite a bit of reading

Hi Ron Thank you very much. I have now got that on file. I don’t like Brian Lambert diagrams, too many lines, which is double Dutch to me. All the best. Kevin

Hi Ron.  Another reply/question. When using the LED's that Modellers use are they a standard size? and if they are is it worth using LED holders when constructing a "Mimic Board"? Or does one just "bung them in" a drilled hole?All the best. Kevin

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi Ron.  Another reply/question. When using the LED's that Modellers use are they a standard size? and if they are is it worth using LED holders when constructing a "Mimic Board"? Or does one just "bung them in" a drilled hole?All the best. Kevin

I used these for my mimic panel Kevin.

Maybe not the cheapest but robust.  Can't remember what resitance I used - I'll check when I have a moment and let you know.  Just drill a hole and push them in.

http://uk.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15001&langId=44&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=2062404&storeId=10151

Hi Petermac.   Thank you too. My mimic panel will only be a simple one, at the moment, unplugable? for transport?if I ever go anywhere with it?   All the best. Kevin

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi Ron.  Another reply/question. When using the LED's that Modellers use are they a standard size? and if they are is it worth using LED holders when constructing a "Mimic Board"? Or does one just "bung them in" a drilled hole?All the best. Kevin

Kevin, for panels, I guess modelers use whatever they want - I use 3mm & 5mm LEDs - with just a hole to fit them in & apply some PVA on the back to make sure they stay in position - easy to get out if needed.

Hi Ron.   Thank you. Why do I always want to complicate things?  All the best. Kevin

Here's a copuple of shots of my small mimic panel Kevin.



It controls 10 servo motors - enough, as you can see, for 4 route changing points (Nos 1; 2; 5 & 7) and 6 others (Nos 3; 4 & 6 each controlling 2 points) associated with the 3 crossovers - via a "Megapoints" controller (http://megapointscontrollers.com/megapoints).

The green LEDs show which route is set.  When I press the red button, the 2 LEDs flash alternately then, once the point position has changed, only the corresponding LED is alight.


This is what's inside - not a pretty sight but it works well.  :thumbs



If I knew how to upload videos, I could show you what happens when I press the buttons ………………… :oops:

Hi Petermac.  Thank you for the photos. As you know, I decided to go for manual point control. And that is the difference. If Ihad gone for route control I wouldn't be having derailments and crashes. My mimic panel is just to remind me where the wagons are going, and keeping them on track. When a "DCC Non Believer" saw the mess that my plank wiring had got into, when I went searching for a possible short circuit, i.e. Blue to Brown, he quipped about only needing Two Wires, poor fool.   All the best. Kevin

A stunning epic production of my mimic panel with the LEDs showing which route is set - all powered by a MegaPoints controller -

Not much wrong with that, Peter.   :thumbs

You're too kind Max.  ;-)

Not very professional looking but I'm happy with it - and, more importantly, it works.   :thumbs

OK, Petermac, what is with the flashing LEDs then ? Can't the system makes its mind up?

It flashes while the throw bar moves across, Sol.