Joining Together

 
   I have just about completed the Scalescenes high street backs and have now purchased the high street fronts. It says on the Scalescenes website that these can be joined together to create one unit.
 
  Was wondering if anyone on here had actually attempted it. My main concern would be the location of the chimneys as on the models they are designed to sit at the front of the build so I presume some sort of kit bashing is required.
  I originally intended to kit bash the high street fronts and make them into backs and so giving me a more diverse look on the original backs but now am thinking they would look pretty good as a full high street back and front.
 Any comments welcomed..
 
Shaun

I started the same about three years ago, but I started building them together as one. Unfortunately, I didn't finish as I built a different layout in the middle of moving house. The project is currently stalled, so I can't answer the chimney question.

I logged progress here, but doubt there is much that will help you…

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=11682&forum_id=101&page=1

This is my next project (I think) on Granby…….so I am afraid I cant help very much.

Looking at the two sets of instructions it did seem to me that a fair bit of kit bashing will be required in terms of both structural integrity and adding a sensible amount of depth……plus the roofing:roll:

Do let us know how you get on…..I will be watching with interest

Kind Regards

Wanting to post a picture of the high street backs to explain something but don't know how to do it. Any help ?
I know I am not allowed to post an attachment but don't how else to do it

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=11493&forum_id=24

Post number 10

Firefox is the browser which works best with this forum.

On my iPad, that's probably why there is nothing on the screen saying upload pictures. I will go on the PC tomorrow.

You can see by the picture the issue will be the chimneys when joining front to back, the back and front shells basically mimic each other which would leave an extremely wide chimney. Think I will build one block at a time as opposed to the whole row. This build is obviously no good for joining so its time to start again from scratch.

Ah yes, I get you. I think when I was building them (before I gave up long before reching this bit, I assumed I'd just glue two together and mak wider chimneys. Looking at your picture though, I think that would have looked a bit rubbish.

When I modeled the set of 3D printed chimney pots for these kits I queried the chimney stack issue with John Wiffen of Scalescenes. He advised that the chimney stacks are intended to be double depth when putting the front and backs kits together.


 

The mortar bed for the pots can be cut through at the half way point if you are only building the fronts or backs.

Are the front and back ends of the buildings identical except for the chimneys? If so why not cut off the chimneys and make new ones, or buy some cast plastic or white metal ones.

You may find that some low relief kits are less than a front or back "half" in which case you will need to make new ends and roofs, end walls between buildings joined in a terrace/row can be plain card, only the visible ends of a block need to be brick or stone. Roofs I prefer to cut new ones from embossed plasticard, tops of buildings are the most visible part of scenic buildings so can benefit from the extra detail.

Try to add some variety by adding cast bay windows and/or dormers and other extras.

Mike 

 When I say chimneys I should have been clearer, I meant the stacks. The stacks and the side walls are all one piece in the kits and need to stay that way as they form not only the end walls but the down pipe layers which are all integral to making the model fit. I am going to splice into the stacks whilst maintaining the roof line which will make the stacks less wide and more realistic.

 I like the idea of the dormers etc, will give that some thought.

 Hopefully make a start tonight. I will try and keep updating my progress.

 

I work in N gauge, but principles are similar, for stacks I cut them out of card, 2 or 3 layers if needed, and wrap brick or stone paper round them then stick to the wall, for down pipes I use plastic rod.

I rarely build Scalescenes or Metcalfe kits exactly as bought, I fit etched brass windows and doors, use cast chimneys, add bay windows and/or dormers.

I've now got to the stage where I usually build completely from scratch but try and make things that will fit in and blend with the few kits I have; examples done in stone embossed plasticard, with etched brass doors and windows and cast white metal dormers and bay windows, window cills and lintels white styrene strip



On the one below you can see the effect of the stone embossed plasticard,  for the roof I tried paper strips overlapped, need more practice at that! Chimneys rectangular plastic tube covered with brick paper, pots from round tube. To colour the stone I used a 4" paint roller to apply emulsion from match pots (I think I mixed Dove grey with Pebble); the roof of the one in the above pic I sprayed the tile embossed plasticard with grey primer

Great Pics Mike, I would never have the patience to model in N Gauge. After some cutting and experimenting last night I am going to take your advice and cut off the chimneys and build them as separate entities.

Stacks on old larger buildings such as the scalescene highstreet models are very large compared to what we are used to on modern buildings with 10-12 pots on each one.

Have a stroll down your local high street and look up, I think the scalescenes kit is designed to have double width stacks to mimic this.

Not updated for a while but have been busy…Not fully on topic but before I build the fronts and backs as one unit I thought I would build the backs again but shorter. There is an area of my layout where I want to use the backs but am restricted for height so as a bit of a trial on kit bashing this kit I built these. 
I also had to cut back on the depth on the outbuildings which was quite tricky to get everything to fit. Not 100% happy with the extension on building two but did demonstrate to me how versatile this kit is…
The kit at the back is the original size.