I thought that I might share with you a tale regarding the need to fix something rather than discard or abandon it.



I have a Bachmann 04 shuner which sees very little work on my existing layout but is destined for greater things on the new proposed system so I run it from time to time to keep it cleaned/oiled.  Yesterday, it appeared (having not run for a couple of months) to have developed a distinct "waddle".  Slow running revealed that one of the rear wheels was lifting clear off the track as it rotated suggesting a bent axle or a wobbly wheel.

Removing the body and the keeper plate exposed the wheels and the immediate source of trouble - the old Bachmann split chassis design required the use of nylon "axles" with the wheels pressed into the ends.  On the old B1's, the stub axles on the wheels had a square end and the "axles" had a square hole to receive them thus maintaining the quartering at the right offset.  Alas the 04 had no such refinements, just short nylon axles.

The nylon axle of the rear wheelset on the 04 was cracked at both ends and so, when I checked the back-to-back, it measured about 15.5mm.  Furthermore, the quartering did not look right - the cracked axle was allowing the wheels to rotate separately and destroy the quartering.

Undoing the pins that retained the coupling rod to those wheels (carefully I might add!!), I withdrew the wheels and found a section of Plasticard rod of the right diameter.  A careful cut gave me the right length and a bit of pushing secured the wheels into the ends.  Back-to-backs were set at 14.2mm and the wheels dropped into the chassis.  At this point, one coupling rod was re-attached and then the quartering set up by eye and good fortune.  A bit of tweaking and it was done.

A test run, a bit more of a tweak and a final tightening of the crank pins completed the job.

Net result - the 04 is running better than ever.  Total cost - nothing. 

I would say to all newer/younger modellers out there - don't be afraid to dismantle things that are playing up (NOT CONTROLLERS AND OTHER ELECTRICAL THINGS!!) and ensure you make a careful note of where things go so that it all goes back together.  Photos are always good as you go along to check positioning.

My toolset is not vast - I have the usual array of blades, a set of about 10 small scrrewdrivers, a £5 Vernier gauge to check back-to-backs, a decent set of fine-nose pliers and a piece of foam from which I have made a cradle to rest stock in when its being worked on.  A good light, an "Optivisor" type magnifier and a bit of patience ensures that small screws and bits don't fly off into the abyss.

Happy mending!!

An old apron spread across my lap helps catch those teeny tiny bits that do fall off the workbench. 
Good post Barry… one of these days I'll work out what quartering is all about and have another go at putting my Dapol 45xx (N scale) back together. Sigh.

Cheers

Marty

Hi Ken

Quartering is one half of a medieval punishment (drawn and quartered).  

It's in the same group as being given 50 lashes on the private parts with a frill necked lizard.   :shock:

AKA as "necking."

Hi Barry,

Neat repair job. Always pays to have a look see.

You might want to check the other axles, if one of the non-geared axles has gone then the odds are that the other non-geared axle and the center geared axle are also on their last legs, especially the middle geared one as it carries the full torque of the mechanism. My experience with older split chassis Bachmann models (and the predecessor Mainline ones) is that it's not a question of if, it's just a question of when those axles will split. Styrene tubes are temporary, once they get exposed to oil they will start to slip (bitter experience). You can prolong the repair by using epoxy or CA. Bachmann may have the spares, although with older models it's usually hit and miss. Always worth while asking them.

Nigel

Hi Guys - thanks for the replies. 

I have looked at a number of these old Bachmann chassis and the axles are all ok so far - fingers crossed!!

Quartering is the art of setting the coupling rods at 90 degrees offset so that when looking from the front, one set passes the top of the wheel one quarter turn before the other.  Note that the coupling rods are NOT 180 degrees apart!!  One side leads but, without checking, I am nable to explain why it should be the right of left.

For the full sized loco, this offset is part of the valve operation and the coupling rods re balanced by the balance weights on the wheels themselves.

If there is a demand for a tehnical explanation, I refer the reader to an article in the December 1972 Railway Modeller by Mr Ormiston-Chant who, I gather, was an expert on such things.  I can summarise of required???

Barry 

OK, I am now in tune with Robbo Ormiston-Chant who, in December 1972, offered the following wisdom.

• Most British railways used right-hand lead although the LNWR and the GNR used left-hand.  This possibly continued into the LNER.
• when setting the quartering, place the wheels on the track and look along as if you are standing behind them.  Put the right hand coupling rod at the top of the wheels and the left hand rod should be pointing forwards. (left-hand lead).
• Note that the cranks should be at right angles to each other.

Hope that this is of some use.  Mr O-C went into great detail in his article to explain how 2, 3 and 4-cylinder locos had their valve gear set and reminds us that the coupling rods are driven by the cylinders located either the inside or outside the frames.  The offset came as a result of the workings of the cylinders and the balance weights on the wheels were all part of making it, well, balance.  He claims that a model with incorrect quartering would wobble and bind but, personally, I am open to being convinced.

Are there are any loco builders out there who can enlighten us?

Barry

Hi Barry,

No Idea, maybe a bit of kangaroo hopping in a model at speed, but there is not enough mass in the rods to cause much of anything. It's an interesting subject, especially with multiple (more than 2) cylinders.. I found this reference that deals with what the various companies did re left or right quartering pre-1923 - http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Wheel_quartering.html

Wonder if the model manufacturers get it right? I must go back to my K's Armstrong Goods outside frame and see if I got it right. Probably not. Easy enough to sort - thanks to the Romfords.

Nigel

Hi Barry.  I hope that you, both, are well. I read / saw on YouTube, about a model Loco where the axle boxes had worn out, the reason being short of oil. My gronk hasn’t a lot of oiling, or running since the lockdown as I have not been out. Could this be correct and when/where is the best place to proceed with the job. Best wishes Kevin

Hi Kevin

Regular mantenance is something we are all guilty of letting slip but it is well worth trying to do it.

The manufacturers always provide a sheet of details when engines are sold so have a study of the info sheet.  It is easy to over-oil so use a very light oil (or, preferable a specialist model loco oil) and use very small quantities of it.  Peco electrolube is as good as any.  I also have a tube of oil with a heavy "needle" applicator that delivers a small droplet very accurately.  If I could put my hands on it, I could tell you who made it!!

Unfortunately, no chance yet……….

Barry

Hi Barry. Thank you for your reply. Trouble is that I have too many safe places, I cannot always put my finger on it, but,  I have got the oil as you described from Gaugemaster. Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Barry.   Another reply. I will have to remember that the bearing was lost for a “ha’p’orth of oil “. Kevin

quartering is IMHO a bit of a dark art. Romfords/ Markits type wheels solve the problem others need patience and a good eye or a jig. the rods are set at 90 degrees  but even when you think you have got it right its often not. without a jig one of those right angled back to back gauges is very helpful.

with four coupled locos its pretty straightforward but with 6 coupled one wheel out can throw the whole lot out. The best way is to deal with each wheelset then set up the six wheels as two 0-4-0's ie front to middle then middle to back as individual units then join them up. Then its wrong! but at least you will then know which is the offender and its usually just one wheel which needs tweaking a bit at a time until its right. This sounds a bit daft but when its set right the improvement in running is amazing. The other problem cen be too much slack in the rods, although RTR models often have  fair degree of slop the same doesn't seem to work when you do it yourself!

This is not meant to be some form of instruction merely an observation.

Thanks Roberdoc, ANY input on this subject from those who've done it is helpful !  I think I have at least a couple of steamers hidden away that probably need this,  :thumbs
Mainly though I Am playing with diesels, no quartering needed, and they seem to stand up to the ' abuse' given them by the Grandkids better 

Thanks for the input, I've now bookmarked this subject for if I get brave enough ( or find the bloomin time !) To have a go  :cool wink

Hi Matt.   Don’t wish your life away, since I retired, and now that I have no one to care for, I don’t have any structure in my life. I should write a timetable from getting up, tablets, breakfast, and so on. And then I may have time to work on my plank, but by then I will have to cook dinner or tea?    Best wishes Kevin