Glueing Neodymium Magnets to the Baseboard

Hi All.  I have been watching YouTube again and the presenter claims to be Glueing Neodymium Magnets between the sleepers onto the baseboard, to enable him to uncouple Kadee couplers.
But, here's the thing,he did not specify which glue he had used, it would have to be pretty special to glue two vastly different materials together , bearing in mind "That the plywood is porous" and that will take the strength out of the glue. I could use "Araldite" but as the two substances need mixing together and I can only stick down one magnet at a time, bearing in mind that Neodymium magnets are so strong they would atract each other and ruin the job. Any ideas or advice would be helpful.
all the best. Kevin

Have a look at UHU kev.  get the non solvent type to prevent stringing.

Hi Reg.   thank you for your reply, I do have a tube of Uhu, but, maybe not the correct one. And these magnets are so good at
"what they do". They need controlling.  all the best. Kevin

I have had complete success using Copydex. A smear over the top almosts encapsulates the wee magnets, yet stays flexible enough to allow them to be levered out with a small screwdriver if like me you need to move one.

Doug

And I use ordinary superglue. Glues the magnets  to balsa/ card/ MDF  and fingers if not careful!

Hi Doug.  Thank you for your reply. I used to swear by Copydex when I. was younger, I will have to buy a tube, the trouble with the tins, unless you are careful they get bunged up. all the best. Kevin

Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply. When I first considered Superglue and the shop assistant told me about the plywood being porous and the glue becoming brittle I took her word on it. Me being me I didn't want to argue with a "Pretty young thing" or cause a scene in the shop.
In the meantime, I had the idea, that if she was correct about superglue and just trying to sell me another product, I could cut a thin piece of (my spell checker won't let me use a brand name) plastic and slip that under the track, where the magnets will go and stick the magnets onto the plastic. all the best Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Clear silicone sealant (as used in kitchens/bathrooms). Get the squeeze tube type, just a light smear on the bottom of the magnet, or put a small blob of sealant where you want the magnet to go, press in place. Sets up in an hour. Advantages? It is easy to remove the magnet if required, and the sealant has a life of at least 10 years. Make sure you use the paintable type. Give the magnets a wipe with IPA or wash them with dishwasher liquid, the often come with an oily coat.

Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply. 10 years? that might see me out?
And after one hour I will be able to stick another one in?
But how do I keep them apart? as you probably know one is okay by itself
but get two together, and who knows what might happen?
All the best.  Kevin

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply. When I first considered Superglue and the shop assistant told me about the plywood being porous and the glue becoming brittle I took her word on it. Me being me I didn't want to argue with a "Pretty young thing" or cause a scene in the shop.
In the meantime, I had the idea, that if she was correct about superglue and just trying to sell me another product, I could cut a thin piece of (my spell checker won't let me use a brand name) plastic and slip that under the track, where the magnets will go and stick the magnets onto the plastic. all the best Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Just read the above, otherwise I would have commented in my first post. Porous plywood? That would provide a much better adhesion surface than plastic or styrene. That magnet is not porous either. Helps if you roughen the bottom with some 400 or 800 grit emery paper. You just have to use a medium or slow setting Super Glue (which is a registered trademark of the Super Glue Corp.). CA can be brittle if used cold (straight from the fridge, where it should be stored tightly sealed) or if you use an accelerator. CA does not like lateral forces, which will cause the polymers to shear. Vertical pull is another matter.

I use CA all the time with wood (and also with plastics using the plastic-compatible type). It's also a product where cheap is definitely not good.

If you use CA and have to remove the magnet later on it will probably come away with some of the wood attached.

Nigel

Hi Nigel.  Thank you again. Another thing that I forgot to mention is, the shop assistant said that the superglue becomes brittle and weakens the bond . But no matter which adhesive I use? I can only do one magnet at a time . all the best Kevin

Kevin, I've done this recently, glueing the magnets to pdf.  I used good old Poundland PVA.  Worked fine.

Terry

Hi Terry  Thank you for the two replies. As it happens, I do have  a Poundland  PVA . But I didn't even give it a thought.
On the house hunting front, it seems light years away.
all the best. Kevin

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi Nigel.  Thank you again. Another thing that I forgot to mention is, the shop assistant said that the superglue becomes brittle and weakens the bond . But no matter which adhesive I use? I can only do one magnet at a time . all the best Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Use a keeper plate underneath the magnet (steel washer screwed to the plywood), that way you can glue 2 at once. Or not bother with any glue, the ballast PVA will be enough.

Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you, again, I had the idea of "Tin Tacks" between the sleepers, but was unsure if the magnets would remain secure , but with your idea, it would give extra strength and should keep the magnet secure. all the best. Kevin