Gutters & Rainwater Downpipes

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As you may know, I've been building some Metcalfe kits recently.
I'm very pleased with the results, especially after touching up edges with paint etc.
Now I'd like to add some details, especially rainwater fittings. So the question is this: -

How do you do gutters and downpipes :?:  If I was using plasticard, I'd have no problem, but having never worked in card  …..
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Jeff

I am hoping to do some Metcalfe kits over the Christmas hols seeing as my garage is to ruddy cold at present. I was thinking of using drinking straws cut in half longways and using some narrower pieces to represent the brackets/joins.  Not sure whether they would be to scale though

Matt
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A quick search of the net when I was researching this question earlier this year I came up with the following:

>>Rain gutter sizes and profiles
Gutters are formed in several profiles and sizes. The standard profiles are a simple "U" shape and a "K" style, which has a ogee-shaped front, vaguely reminiscent of the letter "K."

Channels are 4, 5 or 6 inches in diameter; 5-inch K-style gutters are a popular type. Matching downspouts are 2 by 3-inch or 3 by 4-inch rectangular profiles or 3 or 4-inch round (often corrugated) pipes.

The larger systems are generally worth the difference in price because they're less likely to clog. If trees overhang your house, 3 by 4-inch downspouts are a good idea.<<

I have therefore used appropriate size Plastruct Fineline Deep U Channel for the guttering and wire for the downpipes.

They have been sprayed grey.

I have yet to appropriately block the ends of the channels.  The truth is I forgot and did not realise the omission until I saw the photos :oops:





Bryan
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If anyone is using card in the scales from 00 upwards then heavy gauge printer paper, filing cards or postcards can be used for guttering. I will only give rough measurements because everything will depend on the scale you are working in. cut a strip of card the length you need and about a centimetre wide for 00. Scribe a line about 3mm in from one long edge then scribe another 3mm from the first one.Fold on the scribe lines and there you have your guttering. One long edge will be a couple of mm wider than the other but this allows for tucking under the roof line and glueing to the side of the structure.
Another ready made alternative for 00 are umbrella ribs, already 'U' formed and ready for cutting to length.
As for drain pipes I have used any round material that comes to hand but if you need quantity then try string cut to length and then coated with PVA to give it some stiffness. Small strips of thick paper can easily be wrapped round this to represent the wall fixtures, whatever they are called. String may sound too soft for the job but remember drain pipes do not take horizontal runs but are always at a steep, if not vertical, angle, so the string does not have to support itself.
Kebab sticks can also be used for the same purpose. Very cheap as they come in a large packet that should last a lifetime. If slightly too thick then they can easily be sanded down. Thin card or paper for the wall fixings again.
All very easy, simple and cheap. All these mthods have been used on Barchester at one time or another and when fitted to the building and painted black there is no visual difference between them.
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String for downpipes, boy have I got a lot to learn :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:

Wayne

My Layout "The South Shore Line":
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21
This video/animation was made in Adobe Flash Player, which is no longer supported or available for download.
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Don't forget Wayne that FC is a real miser and wont spend a penny unless he has to. :roll:  :wink:
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Kebab skewers Bob - there's something I hadn't thought of !! 8)

Just goes to show when scratchbuilding (or detailing), everyday household objects ought not the be overlooked.  You can usually find something with a bit of lateral thinking.

Incidentally, do you take the kebab off before you use them ? :lol:  :lol:

Petermac.

'Petermac
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