New part work
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#180473
(In Topic #10193)
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http://www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/prodpage.asp?productid=3436
If my math holds and the assumption of 120 issues is true, your kit would end up costing 958.00 or so. DJH retail price is 645.00.
You still have the problem of building it to a reasonable standard - no easy task I think.
John
John
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http://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/ISBN/1908763019.php
http://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/ISBN/1908763051.php
A bit pricey but a worthwhile investment for someone doing models in this scale. Alas, Geoff passed away just as volume 2 was released. :sad: I'd say get them while you can.
For 7mm, you can't do too much research I'm thinking. The example you cite with the frames is a pretty strong argument for buying a kit at one go.
John
John
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Terry
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I think it's a bit of a shame that Wild Swan haven't reprinted some of their books, the younger generation will suffer from lack of that valuable, and as time go on, irreplaceable knowledge. Finding details on the internet is a lost cause from what I've seen. I can't see the value of electronic reference books, but I'm of a certain age.
John
John
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Out of interest, which MRJ issues are you missing?
Terry
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Maybe Wild Swan aren't the most efficient of publishers by today's standards but the couple or so of their books I've got, are excellent. Plenty of information and very readable (lookable at pictures …………..:roll:)
I'd also agree about the loss of written resource for modellers. The internet is a wonderful place but it's not the only place and it doesn't know everything. The "craftsman" type of modelling skills posessed by the authors of books is something I've never found on the net outside of visuals. IMHO, if you sit and study a book, you can learn a huge amount from it. Sitting and studying the internet is rather more difficult ……………………and having it open at the page that showed you how to do this or that whilst you try to copy it to your own model, is not really practical with a 24 inch montior strapped to your forehead ………………..;-)
'Petermac
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They are excellent books John, I agree. Small point though, LMS Wagons was published by OPC, not Wild Swan.
Out of interest, which MRJ issues are you missing?
Terry
Curses! Busted on that. I only realized after I pressed send.
As for MRJ, I'm missing a few of the early ones. 0 and 4 spring to mind but I'd have to take stock to be sure. Mind you, the world has moved on a fair bit since the early 90s, so I'm probably not missing anything especially earthshaking.
Books are extremely valuable Peter, but at some point the modeller has to give it a try. Just yesterday, on the radio, there was discussion on how readers don't retain as much from an e-book as a printed one. I like my Kindle for novels but I can't see it being much use as a textbook.
John
Last edit: by Brossard
John
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No, I wasn't tempted to do the whole thing…
Doug
'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil…' Aesop's Fables
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin
In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin
In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king
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1) If you intend soldering the bits together (makes for a much stronger model in my opinion) then when the etched bits have been taken off the sprue (or before if you prefer) soak the whole lot in cellulose thinners and remove the lacquer that has been sprayed over them. I think I would do this even if I was gluing it as I don't trust a glue to paint joint.
2) On the cab-side/front etch run a sharp blade down the vertical fold lines a few times to deepen it a little as the metal is still quite stiff and it is easy to distort either the cab-side or the front. I used bending bars to make the bend and supported the cab sides when I bent them. The centre fold line is fine in my opinion, just the cab-side to front fold lines gave problems. (I know, I had to get another copy of Issue 1 to get a replacement). Thank goodness it is only 50p.
3) I also found that if you remove the point on the floor section then folding the cab-sides around the floor is a lot easier.
4) You may well need to drill another hole near the top of the cab-side, just underneath the curved in part for the top handrail knob. I'll let you know exactly where later.
5) Fitting the washout plugs as shown (vaguely) is a PITA. You may find you have to remove some metal from the back of them and tidy up the etched hole a little to assist (or remove a little metal from the floor). It is hidden when it all goes together so it won't show.
I'll take a couple of pics later and post them to show how the job went.
Last edit: by 60019Bittern
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I've used a "scrawker*" before to deepen fold lines. I don't have bending bars but have used a flat file to clamp a coach side to the workmate in order to bend without cockling the thin half etched brass.
With brass kits there are frequently additional things that need doing (and making) to make the model more convincing.
John
* Olfa carpet cutter
John
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Last edit: by 60019Bittern
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John
John
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There seem to be a lot of folk with a phobia about soldering.
John
John
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Regards
Alan
Born beside the mighty GWR.
Alan
Born beside the mighty GWR.
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