Indoor pusuits on lovely wet summers days!

A couple of weeks ago I purchased two lots from Fleabay and was very pleased at the price. When they arrived I decided to strip them in Caustic Soda and hot water (Outside I may add) If you have not used Caustic Soda please do take care…It can be nasty if you do not treat it with RESPECT.. And rinse thoroughly in cold water…
 Any way, After the paint was removed I repeated  the process again which freed the glue joints and I was able to dress the parts and start to rebuild the models again…Here follows the before and after piccy's



After the Caustic Bath…




This is Batch one…



This is after a rebuild and I put my mark on them…The Exhaust pipes where made from Brass rod and Brass tube…



This was the second Batch…



This is after. Yes I know the horses are to be painted and I have some touching up to do on the wheels, But at least it gives the idea?



 The above photo is as I bought it last year, Pre-owned…I was not happy how th cab sat resting on the front wheels…So I carefully split down the model a with a bit of shimming here and there and new windows and glazing bars I came up with the next photo…







A late addition, The Horses painted.


I must admit I feel quite pleased with that…


I hope you enjoy my pottering's

REgards…Alan

Very nice indeed Alan. :thumbs

The old Fordson Major with steel wheels - a real post war relic - and in the right colours too, as are the Standard Fordson and David Brown in the first and second photos. :pathead

I like the "cartage" wagon but it ought to say "Rington's Tea" ………….;-) 

Yes there are a few photo''s online to give idea's. What did we ever do before The Internet?

REgards    Alan

Very nicely done, Alan.

The bargains are around if you are patient and prepared to do as you did, strip the poorly made or painted models down and start again. I have quite a few white metal buses awaiting similar attention. A couple were originally assembled with superglues, which don't usually work that well with white metal, forming rather brittle joints: anyway, the upshot was I received kits of parts, which was exactly what I wanted, so the post office saved me a job!

I find I can build and paint the models fairly quickly for an overall finish bt doing all the little fine-tuning jobs and touch ups is what really takes the time. Plus I'm lazy! If it looks reasonably finished I tend to plonk it on the layout or display shelves and leave it there still unfinished.

  

Hi SRMAN
                I use a really strong Super Glue  with good results and when painted the paint strengthens the bond. And when finished  I treat them with respect…



REspect… Alan  

Excellent post thanks,I'm taking loads of white metal kits with me to Spain (Nerja) so find it quite inspiring. What other adhesives can be used?

I think a good cyano (my fave is medium viscosity Zap A Gap with the green label) is probably best.  I've tried epoxy but you have to make sure the parts don't move while curing and it takes a long time.

I did some Mike's Models stuff a while ago and got a very good result.

John

Lovely job of restoration Alan.
Those models have great character.
In the past I spent many an hour driving those old Fordson Majors.
Cheers,
Derek.

Very good Alan, must say I'm mightley impressed with the transformation!

And me.  :thumbs  Well done!
I like the way that they come into focus after restoration, as well. 

Lo-melt solder for white metal, I've had too many fall apart using various glues. However it is highly recommended if not essential to use a soldering iron with temperature control that will work at around 100C, or less most on the market only have 150C as their minimum. I use Carr's 70C solder;  white metal is an alloy basically tin/lead but with the addition of one or more other metals, such as Antimony, Bismuth, Cadmium, Indium and Silver which affect the melting point, different kit makers use white metal with slightly different melting points, usually between about 135C and 180C. If there is some sprue in the kit it's worth testing to find what iron setting it melts at.

Another thing to remember  about temp controlled soldering irons is that they initially heat to a temperature somewhat above the setting then settle back (ask the missus, the same thing happens with domestic irons).

This is the iron I use, note it is the WHS 40 LT     not the WHS 40

http://www.tradecounterdirect.com/product/weller-whs40-low-temperature-solder-iron-240-volt_240-volt.html

Also on Ebay

I normally solder white metal with a 12volt iron I picked up from the local toolshop and an old H&M controller. I use the 70c solder and so far have had no problems. For glues I tend to use superglue from where ever I can get it from. Wilko's isn't too bad. For stripping paint I normally use cellulose thinners. It tends to soften epoxy as well so it makes dismantling a little easier. Again the stripping is an outdoor job so I normally do that in the summer months.

Great work Alan! Especially good to see the before and after photos.
With regard to caustic soda, this link might give some interesting reading…

http://www.douglas-self.com/MUSEUM/LOCOLOCO/soda/soda.htm

ATB
Shaun.

Hi Shaun
               Thankyou for the link, as you said it is some  interesting reading…


REgards…Alan