The  Devan & Summersett Railway uses all brands of rolling stock including kits & up to recently, the main conversion was fitting Kadee couplings ( covered by many means as described in threads that can be found in the YMR Index) to allow what I consider better for operations. The use of Kadee requires that they be extended so that the buffers did not caused locking. This photo shows how far out the Kadee has to go to prevent the buffer lock


Now in the model Company world, they all used 3 link etc  requiring buffers but the new organisation is updating wagons with air braking systems & knuckle couplings just like the real South Aust Railways did many years ago so the following posts will describe how I convert a wagon to suit the new organisation.

In preparing to instal Kadee, etc , the following are photos of the new Dapol Cattle wagons. The existing number has already been painted over.



The first step is to remove the existing coupling






By what ever method ( I use Stanley Knife), remove the mouldings that are used for the existing couplings together with buffers & hook on the buffer beam,. The beam will get re-painted later.




Next photo has a Kadee No 5 in a box with the screw that will be used to mount it.




The next part is to drill a hole about 1/16th diameter into the floor/frame with the Kadee box hard up against the buffer beam - the white cross shows the hole




And now the coupler box is fitted



Using a Kadee height gauge, this wagon is so close not to need any shims



That bit has been done, now details in the next post.


 

Adding weight - if you are intending to add weights, some space is available under the frame for sheet lead but I prefer extra so it has to go inside. My thread on the Dapol cattle wagons http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=5363&forum_id=18  explained how I did this.

Details,

 I re-number at both sides & add to the ends plus the Company logo using the method of printing out on my printer & onto paper & supa glue to the body ( described under my layout threads)



This particular wagon has had other numbers previously & getting then off was a pain so that is why the body side looks rough
. Weathering will camouflage this.

As this model is missing bars at the top



I use a small number drill like #70 & drill small holes at the ends & middle frames & glue in thin wire rod & painted



Because these wagons only have brake shoes on one side of the wheels, with Air braking ( whatever method). to prevent axle boxes spreading under braking, tie rods between axle boxes are fitted - in this case, wire rod glued to the bottom & painted.


A touch of white paint on the brake lever handles then dull coat the entire wagon - weathering powders to be done later.

I think that is it.

Thanks again Ron. An excellent tutoral there ,good photo's too. To stop whatever you were doing to do that for the forum shows again the generosity of members on this forum.:cheers

Reg, I had to wait for gloss varnish to dry on the control panels so I thought I would do the wagon in between . I still have to finish it as the photos are of 2 wagons.

Hi Ron.    I have just been building four Dapol Presflo wagon kits, and have added “liquid lead “ held in with superglue, but, I don’t know if I have got the correct weight, my starting point is the weight taken from RTR Wagons.in your experience would you please tell me what I should use. Best wishes Kevin 

Kevin, do you mean the weight of the wagon or type of weight to be used?

For the weight of the wagon, you could use the NMRA recommendation

or another Association being the AMRA

Another great "how to".  Very helpful indeed!
Michael

Yes, most useful resource, thanks Sol.

There is also the Kadee #21 with a longer arm than the #5 which solves the positioning issue for many but not all stock. Those with longer buffers may still need repositioning as I found recently on my WC&PR coaches with white-metal buffers.