An attempt at the February project

Rather than clutter Geoff's superb thread with my fledgling attempts, I'll post my progress here.
Ratio GWR signal pack has been bought, as have a pack of 16BA  bolts, nuts and washers.
I've drilled out the lower bracket boss and fitted the bolt and nut with the necessary parts.
Next is to add the signal arm and an operating wire.

Sounds like a great start, Stu. I look forward to seeing some pictures.

Thanks Geoff.
Have now got the arm on, and the funny 'anchor' on the back. I used another 16BA bolt for this, instead of the wire.
I've also added an operating wire connecting balance weight and arm, and it works!
Not sure as yet how to fix the ends of the operating wire so the don't fall out of the holes at each end, as the bent bits are over length.

That sounds like good progress, Stu. You should be able to bend the ends of the control wires back up to make a U shape once you have got the length correct. The arm needs to be able to move fully to both of its positions without the balance lever limiting the travel by hitting its support bracket. This photo shows you:-

Aha - a U shape - simple really.

I wasn't sure about the compromise between looking realistic and being operational - but I'll follow your advice.

So, the first piccies :







This needs a little more paint on the lens and frame, and the back of the arm and the anchor-thingy, but it does work !


Notice I've used the opposite hole in the balance weight for the operating wire - this is because the signal arms are lower quadrant, so the weight needs to be low when the signal is horizontal.

Looks very good, Stu. Of course that is trouble with these peculiar GWR signals. The balance weight has to overcome the weight of the arm to pull it back UP to the horizontal position. The LNER (and I think I am correct in saying the official BR system ??) of having upper quadrant means that there is almost no need for a balance weight at all as the weight of the arm naturally returns the signal ON. Surely a much safer approach?

In actual fact, the balance weight is low for a horizontal arm in the case of upper quadrant as well. It is just that the operating control wire has to push up for horizontal, thus the need to be on the opposite side of the balance lever pivot to the weight.

How have you fixed the arm to the bolt? Is it glued on?

I drilled out the clearance hole to 0.65mm, which allows the bolt to self tap the plastic. There is also a nut on the other end.

Sounds a good idea, Stu. So did you tap the screw into the pivot mount on the lamp, or into the arm itself? Hopefully the latter, so that the bolt rotates with the arm. Then you need to also tap the back blinder onto the bolt as well. When the arm moves, the back blinder also moves. When the arm is in the ON state, the back blinder allows rear facing light from the oil lamp illuminating the spectacle plate. This enables the signalman to see that the arm is properly ON from his box.

When the arm is OFF, the back blinder moves round so that light does not project from the rear of the lamp.

The bolt is tapped into the arm only, the post is drilled to 0.8mm. The back blinder was drilled to 0.65mm and wound on, but as the signal will face the box, I guess it would not be needed.

I was hoping to make the light work too ( this is the first signal to give me an understanding of how to do things), but the spectacle plate is quite thick.

If you find the plastic too thick to get the light to work you might consider brass. MSE do frets of arms only, with the spectacle glass space ready for coloured gels.

Bod, you have read my mind…

I need to investigate the MSE website and purchase some appropriate arms.

 

Edit : Pack S0014 looks suitable :mrgreen:

That fret you have found of arms looks great, but  if you are considering trying out brass, I would recommend that you have a go at building a complete brass signal rather than trying to combine plastic and brass.

I am going to show the use of kit S4/KE1 which will be very similar to S4/KW2 if you want to try a GWR one. This is a tubular post and not a square wooden one, but you may find it easier as a starter kit.

I started with tubular myself before moving on to the more demanding lattice posts.

I would agree with Geoff. There is something very satisfying about building signals from brass.

Obviously the aim is to have a signal for use on a layout but there is a certain beauty about the signals in their original 'bare' brass. I won't throw any of my pics here on your thread but you can see the finished results on my layout thread.

Brass….. hmmm, I think I'll take one step at a time - this is my first ever signal, and I've never soldered anything other than wire & track, so I think a working brass signal is a bit beyond my skill set as yet.

But, I will have a go in the future, and thanks for the encouragement.