Hi all

I've been a member here for a short time and have tried to go through as many of the old topics as i can so please forgive me if either a. i start to cover something thats already been discussed and I've missed it or b. i start to waffle.

After a good many years, in which I lost the railway bug, I received a train set for Christmas out of the blue and now would really to get some kind of proper lay out started

so, I have so many questions, but I'll start with a few.

1. I think I'll have space in the garage for an L shaped layout measuring approx 12' on the longest side, 8' on the shorter and maybe a max of 2' width.  as such I was thinking of having an end to end layout and modeling it on a generic heritage railway as I've already purchased several diesels and at the weekend procured a rake of steam locos from my stepdad who had them for approx 30 years but kept them boxed and never used them once. Would you go along this path or am I best picking a period and sticking to it?

2. Is flxi track the best way to go to get the best results and a more authentic track layout?

3. along with the locos I also got a load of track and grey underlay, does this underlay work or am I best laying my track on something else?

4. are cardboard stations and other scenery bits any good or are they best built by hand?

I think that will do for now

Many thanks to those that have got to the end without nodding off

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Oh, I'm modeling in OO if that helps

Hi Paul

The same happened to me, many false starts and long periods of inactivity. When I got the bug again I decided to keep things small and manageable and for the first time ever I've almost got to the stage when I can say my layout is finished (although it never will be of course)

My opinion of what you should model doesn't matter, you should do whatever you want to. Nobody here will criticise you for mixing periods.

1. Regarding the space you have, I would start with something that fits along the 12' wall and design it to extend further round if you want to at a later stage. as I said keeping things manageable worked for me.

2. Yes definitely.

3. Unless what you have is peco streamline flexi track, you are probably better off going for new peco track. I'm not a fan of foam underlay but other will have different opinions. It depends on the look you want.

4. Cardboard kits are very good these days and a great way to learn scratchbuilding techniques. Have a look at the gallery on www.scalescenes.com to see what can be achieved.

Good luck and don't be afraid to ask more questions.

The hardest part is getting started. 

Hi Nick

Thanks for your reply

All the track I have is Hornby, I assume that Peco and hornby are compatible where things like points are concerned?

I keep reading about DCC but I really dont have the money to go down that route yet so I'll be keeping everything DC, well at least for my first attempt anyway

can you by things like hills and cuttings ready made or are they something I'm gonna have to learn to do myself?

Paul

Hi Paul. 

1.  Start with something small with the track and points that you have.  I'm not a fan of 30 year old locos, today's models are far superior.  However, they should go and will get you started.

2.  Yes, flex track.

3.  The Peco grey foam underlay dries out and crumbles - so I've been told.  Cork works and you can buy strips of this at your model shop (or is that a North American thing?)  DIY stores should have sheets.  There's a black foam from Woodland Scenics and C&L that I plan to use.

4.  For the beginner, kits from Superquik and Metcalfe are relatively inexpensive, easy to build and attractive.  There are plastic kits from Wills and Ratio.  Scalescenes kits are beautifully designed but, having built a few, would advise getting experience on simpler ones first.

DCC is the way to go but again, I would advise that you get something up and running before spending all that money.  While 30 year old locos can usually be converted to DCC, their running qualities leave a lot to be desired (for me I hasten to add).

I think there are hokey plastic hills and things, but I recommend you look for some books on scenery and have a go.  Woodland Scenics do starter kits.

John

 

Don't forget Paul that we have very comprehensive Indexes that will cover anything you need to know but never hesitate about asking questions no matter how simple they might seem.

Paul, one thing which hasn't been mentioned yet is that your 30 year old locos/stock may struggle on newer type track. The older models had deeper flanges on the wheels and may ride on the chairs of the new track leading to a very bumpy ride. I would try a loco on a new piece of track before buying all new track. You don't even need to power the track, just place the loco on a new piece of track and push it along by hand. You'll soon know if the flanges are fouling on the chairs.
30 year old stock you may get away with but much older than that and I believe you'll be struggling.