An interesting topic re       the brass centreing spring for Kadee couplers


       http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/278227.aspx?page=1
       
especially this post

Harrison, the box spring is designed to "only" to be installed         "on top of the coupler". If you look closely at at the spring         you will see a big difference in the spring arms. As mentioned,         there's a strong and weak side to help with uncoupling and         delayed action. Also, note the end of the shank on the #5 type         of couplers have different angles that are not symmetrical and         these match the different spring arm angles. This is why it's         important to always have the spring on top. If the spring is         installed on the bottom it may work OK but eventually there will         be problems. Note that when the couplers are coupled and in         operation this takes the centering spring out of the performance         issue so the spring on the bottom has no affect. It's when the         coupler has to be uncoupled and centered properley that problems         will arise and the spring may wear out faster. Remember that         this is all late 1950s technology which is still the most         popular in our coupler line, presently even more than our         whisker couplers.


                Sam Clarke R&D Kadee Quality Products

Putting in the whisker types is bullet proof - there is only one way to put one on (unless you fancy upside down operations). As are the NEM types. All Kadees are handed, that's why the orientation of the metal "spring" with uneven length arms is probably important (I've put #5's in with the spring on the bottom or the top and never noticed any difference twixt the 2). Which begs the question - why do the whiskers have even lengths? Or NEM's have none?


Nigel

Another site to read about Kadee & UK outline

Model Railways Online

Interesting comments about the brass spring positioning Sol.  I've never really studied how these things actually work - just been pleased that they do.

The article about fitting knuckle couplings to UK stock is very useful - now saved for future reference so many thanks.

I'll naturally read it again but I'm not absolutely clear about what he meant by "compatibility" with botnh E-Z Mate anf Kadee.  Did he meant one could use either or without any compatibility problems or did he mean that, after any necessary modifications to stock, either type could be fitted - i.e. no difference in modifications regardless of which coupling one was using ………………..

I've had to contend with most variations on UK stock, some easy to modify, others a real PITA and, until recent models, almost none without some kind of modification.

I suppose, give that UK is the only country in the world modelling  "OO" gauge, 4mm scale,  it comes as no surprise that we Brits like to be "different" ……………..

Thanks for the article, Sol.

My local Mr Fixit (Pete) is just back from the UK and confined to barracks for the next couple of weeks. Not long enough some would say!  

So I am teaching myself the intricacies of the Kadee system and the article has been useful. I can already see that I am a bit overcautious and have the knuckle too far forward.



Cheers
Evan

Thanks Sol,

I've added the latest link to all your earlier reference materials here.:cool:

Colin

[user=2089]Ssamm[/user] wrote:

Thanks for the article, Sol.

My local Mr Fixit (Pete) is just back from the UK and confined to barracks for the next couple of weeks. Not long enough some would say!  

So I am teaching myself the intricacies of the Kadee system and the article has been useful. I can already see that I am a bit overcautious and have the knuckle too far forward.



Cheers
Evan

Oi, I've just read that and I'd like everyone to know that I'm on the loose again. That coupler looks like it might not be far enough forward for tight curves. Fingers crossed. I'm actually enjoying seeing things take shape as I have a bash at scenery. Not much yet but I'm getting there. I love the Kadee couplers and have started using 3mm cube neodymium magnets for uncoupling. Much cheaper than the genuine article.

I got introduced to the joys of shunting on my local club's HO gauge American layout when I helped with the last exhibition we attended before COVID-19 made us all lock ourselves away. At the time I modelled British N gauge, so I had no stock and primarily I was there because my vehicle had a tow bar for the club's layout trailer, but one of the guys took pity on me and lent me a switcher and a few wagons for the weekend. I spent a happy couple of days pottering wagons around the front yard of the layout talking with the  public and generally having a great time!
This in turn has inspired me to plan a shunting layout of my own but in OO gauge - hence the Kadee link. I think they are absolutely superb - I love them! I'm planning to use the neodymium magnets for hands-free uncoupling and since I am a rank newcomer when it comes to building layouts will start with a simply 'Inglenook' style shunting puzzle to gain experience (and hopefully some capability too!).

Most of my stock has NEM sockets, so the conversion process is relatively straightforward. The two most valuable pieces of equipment I have for my couplers are the height gauge and the pliers to bend the trip wire! 

Welcome to the forum. I wouldn't go back to tension locks since changing to Kadee's. I've never used the Ezymate's, but it looks like they're much the same, only plastic.