Hello again everyone,Just a quick question please, is it a good idea to use flexible track as the main source for trackwork on a new layout?
Many thanks, 
Box

Outside of the fact it is far cheaper than Setrack, it allows YOU to better create a plan. Yes OK, it takes a bit more effort - but does it matter? It is a hobby which can be a easy as or hard as one wants.

Yes go for flex track every time.

Hi David,

Apart from the obvious restrictions (radii, lengths, no easements, difficult to do elevations or changes in track level) there is the issue of connections. Relying on connectors is iffy, especially if you use DCC, so every section of track needs wiring to the bus. And once you get away from code 100/16.5mm gauge in OO/4mm scale you don't have any choice anyway.

Same comments apply to sectional "ballasted" track such as Kato Unitrack, although the choice is much better there than the Set Track offered by Peco. 

It's not difficult to work with flex track, tight radii being the exception. And as Ron says it's slightly cheaper and will fit your plan, not the other way around. The Peco long straight at 28.5" is comparable to a 36" length of flex track, IMO useful if you want really straight track on a large layout or in a fiddle yard. 

There is no reason why you can't mix and match. It's YMR, rule 1 applies. Do what works for you. 

Nigel

Many thanks 

Flexi-track allows you to be the master not the track.  It flexes in both horizontal and vertical planes meaning you can create transition curves - easing into and out of the curve rather than lurching from straight to sudden curvature and back - and into and out of gradients as opposed to creating an upward or downward kink which will never permit good running.  If you develop into more advanced skills and realism then flexi-track allows you to cant (super-elevate) your track through curves as well without relying on a bit of force at the joints.  

Use a good quality track cutter such as a Xuron, have a few needle files on hand to rub down any burring before adding the joiners and remember that you will need a sharp blade such as a scalpel to trim back the raised "chairs" holding rail to sleeper base at every rail end.  One or two will be enough.  You will also need to trim a little length off the sleeper bases where two tracks meet or diverge at a point.