Cut and shut Triang Clerestory

Hi All.  I am looking for a Ratio 4 wheel chassis to make a GWR brake van with the brake ends of Triang Clerestory coaches. It looks like a “tinplate toy “ rather than a model, but, I am assured that they actually ran. Looking through the ads there are plenty of complete kits, but, no separate chassis.  Can anyone help? please advise.   Best wishes Ho Ho Ho.  Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

What exactly are you trying to create, a brake van or coach? Do you have a vehicle diagram? Ratio make coach and wagon chassis of differing wheelbases (4 wheel and bogie versions), only some of which are available separately.

Also, GWR brake vans are widely available as RTR models (they do not have coach ends) have been produced by just about every manufacturer and Ratio even do a kit, so why bother to cobble one together?

We definitely need more information on this one!

Bill

This might help a bit to see what can be done

GWR V5 PBV from Triang clerestory coaches

Have to agree with Bill there Kevin.

Why would you buy a cow for milk if you can just pop in the co op and pick up a pint of milk.

Brian

Mick may well be correct in devining Kevin's intentions here, so you need to source the cheapest Ratio coach that you can find Kevin, probably a composite or all third.
So let us know how it goes.

Bill

Hi Bill, Mick , and Brian, Thank you for your replies An online group, The Swansea Railway Modellers Group, has come up with the idea. Make a GWR Brake van with the “ left overs “ of two Triang Clerestory Coaches . As I understand it, one takes two Triang Clerestory coaches, and the first one is cut off after the eleventh window, where the other coach is cut off after the thirteenth window. And when every half is trimmed and sanded, when finished One has a GWR Passenger Brake Van diagram V5  and a “ Proper Job “ Passenger Coach. The diagram number eludes me.   Best wishes Kevin    Ho, Ho, Ho,

Hi Mick.  Thank you. I really don’t know much about the finished job, but a group called “ Swansea Railway Modellers Group “ , have put the idea online. And I just fancied having a go.  Best wishes Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

The Ratio chassis is fragile, especially old kits or stock where the plastic used is now brittle. The sills will fall off every time you look at them, and the axle frames will have problems dealing with the weight of the Triang body. The solvent in the glue will soften them and they will bend out with anything more than a feather on them. Use a Toad or wagon/van chassis adjusted to the required length. You can just cut the chassis in half and attach to the body shell with some screws after sanding down to reduce the thickness, or just cut the required size hole in the body shell floor and use a styrene plate glued over the hole on the inside for the screws. Use brass or styrene for the sills and hangers. [The above is from my notes from when I used to cut and shut these body shells on the cheap.]

The purists will moan, but the body does not match any prototype anyway. Add a gas cylinder underneath for the lights and some pipes on the roof for post oil lamps. If you feel like building your own chassis from brass and white metal parts it can look much better. Fiddly and lottsa dosh though. 

Nigel

Hi Nigel.  Thank you for your reply. Really I am only trying to cheer myself, I am getting clumsier, within a matter of weeks I have tripped over twice. I will have to study your suggestions, nothing wrong with them, but I haven’t got years of experience or salvaged bits for “ up cycling to use in my project.  Have a Merry Christmas,Ho, Ho, Ho,Kevin 

Hi Kevin,

Using a brake van, wagon or van means simply cutting the chassis in half and attaching it to the cut and shut body shell. You do not need to be accurate with the cut. Add the sills (in the case of the brake van just extend them), job done. Much less room for error than if using Ratio bits and pieces. If you use a modern donor it will have the NEM pocket for a KD. Plan ahead, you will be using a plate on the inside floor to join the body shells, make 2 holes either end of the shells for the donors. Adjust the height with styrene sheet to use the couplers. The W brackets are much stronger, the right distance apart for the wheels (which should be Maunsell wooden ones), and are an integral part of the chassis. Just fettle off the brake levers. The sills will hide any imperfections. 

If you are lucky an old Ratio kit will have the correct wheels.

Nigel

Hi Nigel   Thank you again. Alas I am not that lucky, anything that I touch dies or disentegrates? But I will study your ideas, you know where you are coming from.   Best wishes Kevin