After a few weeks of track laying and wiring (aaarrghhh!) I took a break to build a wagon kit for a friend.

This is a BR Dia 209B Shock Absorbing Van.  These were built in 3 lots between 1955 and 1958.  The design was based on Shock Absorbing Vans built by LMS/LNER/GWR.

I've almost finished the construction:



Three major subassemblies as you can see.  In life the van body would have "floated" constrained by the springs.

The roof has had rainstrips and end strips added from supplied plastic strip.

I'll take the opportunity to paint these separately before joining up.



Note the floor of the van body.  Safety loops are 1mm phosphor bronze strip - the plastic ones supplied are impossible to clean up without breaking.

Note the vacuum pipe from brass tube, secured on strips of plastic strip and brass wire clips.

There's a strut that supports the brake lever guide which is ignored in the kit, I made these from scap brass strip.

I must do the tie bar between axle guards.  The kit recommends plastic strip but that is way too fragile.  I'll dig up some brass strip.

John

Looking good John, a bit too modern for me but am I right in thinking that it's a Slaters kit?

Thanks.  Quite right Rob, it is Slaters.  Sadly, no transfers supplied.  I've ordered some from Fox.

John

I must admit that I find it odd that they supply transfers with some but not all their plastic kits - Most confusing.

Yes and annoyingly the website doesn't tell you if transfers are in the kit or no.  

Anyway, the subassemblies are now painted and drying.

John

[user=565]Brossard[/user] wrote:

Yes and annoyingly the website doesn't tell you if transfers are in the kit or no.  

Anyway, the subassemblies are now painted and drying.

John

I hear you, it's not the greatest website in the world despite them stocking loads of useful goodies

ShocVan construction is complete:





IAW my usual practice, the van has been sprayed all over with GlossCote.  Not only does this provide a smooth surface for the transfers but also tends to blend out minor blemishes.

Happily the transfers arrived yesterday - serendipity rules.

John

That is very nice, John.   :thumbs

Wow, you haven't messed about getting that finished and painted.
Can I offer the suggestion that you put a spot of solder on the links of the coupling chain, it improves the look no end.

No moss on me Rob.  Y'know, I noticed the same thing after I took the pic.  I'll have to look into that.

The other thing I noticed is that the tie bars are very thin and should be flush with the outside of the axle guards.  I'll glue some plastic strip over the brass.

John

When I ordered the ShocVan transfers I also ordered some 16T Mineral wagon transfers for my last two:



The ubiquitous Dia 1/108.



Rivetted dia 1/109.

Next step is to do the final weathering.

John

I got the ShocVan transfers done yesterday.  I glued a 0.040" x 0.020" strip of Evergreen to the brass tiebars to fatten them up.  I really couldn't do much with the couplings because I couldn't get a good grip, so I put a dab of CA in the link gap.



The stripes were actually quite difficult because they had to lie over moulded detail.  I did use MicroSol.  I think I should trim their length but weathering will distress them anyway.



John

I took the steel minerals in hand today and finished the weathering:









I used weathering powders - started with rust on the underframe and wheels, followed by black.  I then touched the rust spots on the body with rust and blended that.  I followed up with black to tone things down.

John

Very grottily looking, it's mother would be ashamed of one of her kids being out in public looking like that   

PS… very nice indeed

I'm starting another commission, this time a Connoiseur etch brass NBR 20T Brake Van.  It belongs to a friend who hasn't the time to build it.  This is all part of my scheme to seduce folk to 0 gauge.

Rob has showcased the model he built in his thread so I hope this won't be too repetitive.  Rob did kindly provide some drawings and photos which should help greatly.

Early days yet with the build and I've only been tinkering today.  I drilled the axle guards and instlled bearings.  I also drilled out the buffer housings which was a very painful exercise.

The kit:



Still taped to the backing  :roll:

Castings:



Top L to R:  Chimney, brake wheel standards (don't know why there are two), duckets, buffers and lamps

Bottom:  Axle guards.

John

I got some progress made on the brake:



Slot and tab construction, no drama.  There's still a lot to do.

John

I'm working through the few wagons that haven't yet been weathered.  I just finished three:

Class B Oil Tank (for heavy oil like Kerosene and Diesel), Dapol



BR Standard Planked Van, clasp brake variant, Slaters



BR Meat Van, Dapol



I replaced the rigid plastic vac hose with a flexible vac pipe/hose set from Slaters.  The set includes lamp brackets and a buffer beam receptacle for the vac hose QR connector.  I also added the chalk plate.  Notice the lamp bracket is white.

John

I got a lot of detailing done on the NBR brake today:





The handrails were painstaking but not especially difficult.  Holes were pre etched so that helped hugely.

I used bending bars (ie a large straight file and C clamps) for the solebar and steps.

The fun and games will begin when I try to build the correct brake gear.  The kit is a tad sparse in that area.  Happily I've done these before on Parkside kits.

John

One more wagon weathered, the Parkside LNER Cattle Wagon:



John

I got on with the brake gear today and spent the session making the parts for brass offcuts.  I used Tatlow's drawing which shows the brake arrangement with reasonable clarity.  My experience with other brake gear helps too:



Now with wheels installed.  I preprimed these and wrapped tape around the tyres.



I've installed sub floors and soldered the hangers.



At right side you can see the gubbins I made for actuating the brakes from the hand wheel.  It should get clearer as I proceed.

Yes, I soldered the axle guards using 70C solder, ordinary non acid flux and my regular iron.  I don't hold with anemic 25W irons for this job, lots of heat and in and out quick sharp.

John