Restoration

I acquired my model of this loco second hand.  I was told that it had been professionally built so took the plunge.




Not too bad, I installed a decoder and even had it running.

There things rested for a couple of years until I took it out resolved to do some minor titivation.

My first task was to review the tender chassis - -the body seems fine to me at this point.

TBH, it could have stayed as is, but, being me, I wasn't satisfied.  For a start I didn't like the one dimensional brakes. I also really wanted to compensate it - as much to get my eye back in as anything.

I sourced new brakes from a Mainly Trains etch.  The chassis was completely stripped and High Level hornguides installed.  The builder had used "U" shaped frame spacers which wouldn't stay square so I replaced these with "L" spacers.

Long story short, here's the new tender chassis:




I plan to weather the chassis and wheels separately.

I turned next to the loco chassis, visible in this shot:

 




As I compared this chassis to photos, I kept finding things missing or wrong.  Guard irons too far back, anemic brakes again, undersized sandbox at the front and a piece of kit above the front sandbox that I can't identify also missing.  The glaring issue is that the two inner wheelsets are flangeless - quite wrong but probably done for practical reasons.

So, wheels out and brake gear off.  All but the rearmost sandboxes were removed as well.

Again, Mainly Trains to the rescue with their loco brake fret.  Well mostly, since only three pairs are provided.  Happily my Aladdin's cave of bits turned up a pair of brakes.

I also found replacement flanged wheels - same size as Jinty. 

A note about wheels.  I found that 7 of 8 wheels had deeper flanges than the 8th.  This is because, I suppose, they are Romfords.  My odd wheel is Markits.  I've run into this before and found that, for C&L track, there is a likelihood of Romford flanges hitting chairs - bumpity bump.  My solution is to mount each wheel on its axle, stick it into the Dremel chuck and run the flange against a file.  You need to check frequently with your digital caliper that you're taking the right amount off (~0.75mm dia).  It's then a matter of reshaping the flange with fine files to get the bevels just so.

Here's the loco chassis after rebuilding:




It's ready for paint - I think, unless I find more things to do.

The body is next.  Again I notice that there are things missing - like ejectors (or is that injectors?) and various other bits of kit. 




I also want to do a better job on the cab:




The cab is very open and I think it should look as good as Bachmann are doing.

Now, of course, it all depends on how pedantic you want to be, but I always say that if you buy a second hand kit built loco be prepared to rebuild it.

John

A worthy recipient, John.  Up to your usual high standard.  :thumbs

I did read somewhere (don't ask me :oops:), that some 1 : 1 locos had flange-less inner drivers.

Thanks Max, others may think I'm mad.

You're right, the 2-10-0 had flangeless center wheels - others too perhaps.  I did check a plethora of photos to make sure the 7F had all flanged wheels.

John

It's been a few days and I have been working on this project but there's nothing much to show.

First, I wanted to see if I could upgrade the backhead detail to something approaching Bachmann's latest - a look at your own models of things like the 3F will tell you that that is a pipe dream.  I did get the backhead out, but after painting the inside of cab white (prior to cream), the masking tape pulled off some of paint and the transfers.  I decided to strip the body completely - it is now pristine brass.

Today, while having a rummage, I found an ancient body for the Mainline 2P - something I have been meaning to fix up for more than 20 years but never got round to.  I noticed that, while the backhead detail is nothing like Bachmann, it isn't bad.  I will cut up the body and rob the backhead.

Another issue with this model is that the builder hadn't bothered with wheel balance weights - a very distinctive feature.  I had some weights left over from a Jinty upgrade etch (from Brassmasters) and fitted those.  The wheels were primed and painted black.

I then did a trial fit of the wheels to the chassis and found to my disgust that one of the insulated wheels was shorting.  After some thought, I realised that I had installed a balance weight bridging the insulating layer.  I removed the etched weight made a plastic one - short fixed.  Back to paint.

Today, I wanted to repeat the trial fit and this time all is good on the electrical front - insulated on the pickup side, short to frame on the other side.

Right, a straightforward install of the coupling rods I thought.  Not so fast - first I noticed that the pivot joint was only represented in one place, should be in two places.  I also noticed that the builder had broken a big end and the others were quite thin.  Happily I have the rods from the Flatiron so I pressganged these into service adding a pivot and refurbishing the rods as needed - this took all afternoon.

My last job was to remove the crankpins because, having been used previously, they were really too short.  As usual, sods' law came into play and I stripped one.  My efforts to drill the pin out resulted in a scrapped wheel.  I installed a fresh balance weight in a spare wheel and that is in paint.

Phew!  What a saga.

John:pedal

Hi John,

Nice work. Professional builds are sometimes dreadful - just because somebody builds these for a living doesn't mean they're any good at it (as I have found out with many Japanese and Korean brass models).

Alan Gibson Workshop does a Midland/LMS backhead, as well as a LMS Stanier and LMS 7F backhead. I've used some of the GWR ones, lots of detail and sharp white metal casting. Adds a bit of weight as well. Might need a bit of fettling to accommodate the gearbox. £2.08. Postage is reasonable, and Colin will send a picture of the kit instructions if you ask him.

I'm off to Warley in November, let me know if you want any small bits from AGW, as the full range is not at the show and needs to be pre-ordered for pick-up. Same for C+L.

Nigel

Thanks for the offer Nigel, I'll have to think on that.  Having backheads in the bits box is probably worthwhile even if there is no immediate need.  Be careful what you offer, you may end up with a long shopping list :hmm.

As for professional builds, the chap who built this loco did a very good job on the bodies and got the chassis square.  My suspicion is that his brief was to build the kit from the bits in the box.  BTW its Falcon Brass.  Anyone who's built any kits will know that there are frequently parts in the kit that don't pass muster - brakes for example.  I always like to have details of that sort lying around for cases like this.  There are numerous details missing that are evident from photos, the kit designer(s) may have expected the builder to source or build these.

I'm sure we'll talk again before Nov.

John

Hi John,

Small bits (as in a bag thereof to slip between the stuff from Sainsbury's that no doubt will have to be got). It's the mass of the items, not the number.

I see the new owners of Falcon Brassworks are still only offering wagons - no locomotives. I suspect the model you have could predate Philips Rudd and is essentially a Jidenco model, which were pretty basic and left a lot to be added by the builder. Straight chassis and a decent motor/gearbox is a good basis for detailing.

Nigel

Small bits are the thing, useful for all sorts of jobs.

I have heard that Falcon kits are something of a bear to make.  There is certainly a lot of scope for the builder to detail.

John

The day before yesterday was spent continuing to faff about with coupling rods.  I finally said "enough" , took Nigels' advice and had a browse of AGW.  I've sent an email with my shopping list for things like coupling rods, backheads, and steam/vac pipes.  I've yet to hear back from him though.:twisted:

I also went to Mainly Trains - the listings are a shadow of their former selves but I did order a load of useful bits for loco brake gear detailing.  I also found a cab detailing fret that includes reversing lever and those tiny valve knobs on backheads.  There's a heck of a lot of useful stuff under the mainly Trains brand.  Because this site has joined the 21st century, my order is being processed as we speak.:)

So, we'll sit tight for few days and see what's what when the bits arrive.

John

 

 

Hi John,

Colin usually answers emails within 2-3 days. It's pretty much a one-man business (as it was when Alan was running it), getting him on the 'phone can also be dodgy unless he's out of the workshop.

Nigel

Yes Nigel, I realize that Colin is a one man band.  His stuff is so valuable to modellers it is a shame that he can't modernize.  I expect he turns a lot of people off with this antiquated sales method.  I read elsewhere that he won't do PayPal either - another black mark (I DO NOT like phoning my CC details, I've been hacked so often).  I sent him a reminder yesterday - not unknown for emails to land up in the trash.  May try phoning on Monday.

John

PayPal makes it so easy for the customer!! I'm always amazed at how many retailers refuse to make it fast and easy for the customer to give them their money. Canadian retailers are just as bad.  ðŸ˜¡ðŸ˜¡

The merchant does have to pay a fee, but it's not much (calculated it once).  Heck, I'd pay the fee myself (and have done) if it meant not having to put my CC at risk.

John

Yes there is a fee…but there are fees to the merchant for credit-card use too…so the excuse by merchants not to offer PayPal due to the fee is a load of balony as far as I am concerned. Plus the fact,  that over a year I would guess that the  increased sales volume would cancel out the fees as compared to not offering PayPal. And its not just retailers…I had a charity I was asked to donate to….they wanted so much info besides my Credit Card info that I blew them off…and told them why…now if they had had PayPal they would have gotten a very nice donation…..first rule of retail…" Make it as easy as possible for the customer to give you their money" !!

You are quite right Gene, no excuse at all as far as I can see (although others may know of some).  Operations (retail, charity, whatever…) wanting your personal info is naff.  All they need is your money and PayPal makes that so easy.  Ah well, I only put up with the likes of AGW because he has what others don't.

John

So, anyway, Colin (AGW) has replied to me and we've been going back and forth as my needs get clarified.  I issued a final (I hope) list yesterday so hoping to get this moving soonish.

John