Hi I'm about how glue the window panes (acetate I think) into my window frames (laser cut card/wood) what is the best adhesive to use? Previously Ive used superglue but it can cause nasty smears.

Ian

I've used neat PVA on Metcalfe kits in the past, also, used Rocket card Glue, but you have to be careful.

Thanks could try PVA and let it get tacky I suppose, I'll experiment.

Ian

I use double sided sticky tape,cut to size of course works a treat
:thumbs;-):cool:

G`day Ian,

I just thought of this solution…..somebody has probably already done it??
You could treat the window glazing like an old time slide where the actual film was processed and then sandwiched between two bits of card called a mount.
If there is room to do it you could cut some scrap card to lay over the glazing on the inside of the building. The card could be glued with PVA and the glazing then would be sandwiched between it and the outside wall.


:cheers  Gormo

Good morning Ian
I purchased the Metcalfe glue applicator and place a small amount of neat PVA on each of the four corners. Then place the window in place.
Prior to this we used an old fine paintbrush dipped in the glue pot to apply a drop of glue. The bristles end up glued together in a point but that does not matter.
Only other thing to consider is whether you wish to weather the windows before application. Far easier to do this before placing in situ.
We also use a modified version of what Gormo said above for house windows. We place a strip of card down each side of the window internally before affixing any window / curtain to the inside of that. This provides a gap between the "glass" and the "curtain" or "blind".
Cheers
Andrew

Thanks all you've given me a few ways to tackle the task so I'll try each one first

Ian

There is a glue that aero modellers use called canopy glue, it is a pva based and when it dries it is completely clear, I have used it to glue some windows into scratch built goods shed I have built for my local club and it has worked a treat, I got mine from a model rail show but I imagine if you Google it you should be able to get it on line.   Pete. 

Hi Pete and Ian,

That sounds like Glue & Glaze (Liquid Windows) by Deluxe Materials. I got mine from Peters Spares on eBay for £5.99 plus a reasonable postage cost to France.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Deluxe-Materials-AD55-Glue-Glaze-Liquid-Windows-/311386980395?hash=item48801c402b

Hope it helps,

Bill :)

I second the suggestion for the Deluxe glue and glaze. It stays minutely flexible so that any slight changes in shape of the model don't  loosen the acetate. The added advantage is that it dries perfecly clear, so any whoopsplications are almost invisible.

Be sure to replace the cap asap as it dries quite quickly.

Doug

Model Masters do a cement for transparent plastic and for making small window panes - "Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker". Made by Testors. Helps if the non-visible parts are given a going over with 600 or 800 emery paper to give a "key" for the cement. Same for the frame.

One thing I've found when making windows is that the model needs to be rotated around the vertical axis of the window as it dries, otherwise it tends to flow to the bottom and looks 600 years old (glass is technically a liquid). OK for a church, not so good for an engine. Even has that oily shimmer to it.

Nigel

Many thanks all, I used a combination of ideas and sandwiched the panes between the layers of card and window frame. Glue was pva left to go tacky and am quite pleased with the results (photo recently uploaded into gallery). Just have some decorative brickwork to hide the gap between the 2 tiers then the roof.

Looking good Ian :thumbs

Ed

Well done Ian
Andrew

Well Done Ian thumbsthumbs
:cheers  Gormo