After using 2 lengths of peco n gauge track to make some curves and ruining them  (the rails kept pulling out of the chairs)
 I finally came up with a simple solution. Just wrap the track in small lengths  of masking tape at right angles to the length, roughly one piece of tape every 3". This holds the track firmly and stops it pulling free of the chairs
Once the track is laid and pinned, cut the tape at one side and tease it out from under the rail. Finally got my curves down and coupled up.
If anybody has already sent this, my apologies. I am just so happy to have solved my problem I had to share it:doublethumb

How tight are your curves Mike ……….? :shock::shock:  I use Peco but in "OO" and I've never had that problem. :roll:

Maybe something to do with the heat softening the plastic ? Thanks for the tip Mike.

Not very tight, about the same as the largest standard curve.
It was in an awkward position and n gauge track seems very easy to unseat, it's not the first time it's happened, just the most expensive, or I can spend many happy hours threading rail back through the chairs (as if I haven't got enough to do)
 Top Tip- Masking tape shares will be on the rise until I finish tracklaying

Have you tackled Peco about it Mike ?  They might either be interested in your findings, or have an easy solution without going to the stationers ………….:roll:

I think it's just me being clumsy. The chairs on n gauge are really tiny, it doesn't take much to spring the rails out.
Lucky I never had the grandchildren this week, the air was blue this morning!:oops:

It doesn't take much of a slight twisting action on N gauge track to pop it out of its chairs, its a matter of bending it without twisting it.

I've never had any problems (00), but I usually use the
Tracksettas by Peco. They have slots in them, so you can
pin through them as you work.
Jeff

On my 00 flex - I usually lay both pieces together in a straight line & solder the fishplates, then curve the now 2 yard length of flex.

[user=606]Sol[/user] wrote:

On my 00 flex - I usually lay both pieces together in a straight line & solder the fishplates, then curve the now 2 yard length of flex.

Then you might have problems with expansion.

The fishplates (rail joiners) do allow the rail to slide in and out a bit.

Even in 'sunny' Stevenage the difference in the gaps can change just

by having the sun shining on the track, so unless you have accurate

climate control in your layout room, you must leave small gaps between

the ends of the rails (within the rail joiner) for expansion. 

When I curve a length of flexi, I allow the inner rail to protrude and

then make the joint staggered (by up to 5 sleepers). That way you

don't get the usual kink that happens at the joining point.

Jeff

Jeff, my room temperature changes from 6C to 34C & have never had problems over the 30 plus years of using flex track - of course at the straight part of the flex, I leave a small gap but on the curves, soldering maintains a nice smooth flow.

I also have a lot of track soldered to PCB sleepers which once ballasted with very fine stone & PVA , does not move.

When I lay track, I pin both sides of the sleepers around every 4" / 100mm to maintain the positioning because ballasting is not done until all wiring is completed & much operating by the crew to confirm the track plan is viable.
My D&S has been known to do many minor changes as operating problems arise.

I have had  a similar experience with oo gauge  75 peco jumping out of the chairs and it had not even hit the test track bed. I only flexed it slightly in my hands ( as you do ) and before I knew it the track had came free. It had me wondering if perhaps peco 100 might be a better choice,especially for a newbie.

I have the track seta things as well and the preformed slots never even occurred that they were maybe for the purpose of pinning down the track whilst maintaining the form.

Thick or what  

Cheers

Toto

[user=606]Sol[/user] wrote:

………………………………………………..
My D&S has been known to do many minor changes as operating problems arise.

I never knew that Sol …………………..

[user=1505]toto[/user] wrote:

………………………………..

I have the track seta things as well and the preformed slots never even occurred that they were maybe for the purpose of pinning down the track whilst maintaining the form.
……………………………………………………….

That's what the slots are for Toto but there's always a down side ………………:roll::roll:

If you pin through those slots, unless you push/hammer the pins right home, you can't slide the Tracksetta along the track because it jams on the raised pins.

I usually put the pins in just behind the Tracksetta as I slide it along the rail.  That way, you can set the curve or whatever a full gauge ahead of your current fixing point.  It gives you about 9 inches or so of "sighting" before the track is fixed down.

I tend to avoid Peco pins because they're so thin, you can't get them into anything resembling wood ……………:???::???::???: - but I do pre-drill the sleepers ready to take the thicker pins.

[user=6]Petermac[/user] wrote:

I tend to avoid Peco pins because they're so thin, you can't get them into anything resembling wood ……………:???::???::???: - but I do pre-drill the sleepers ready to take the thicker pins.

I pre-drill through sleepers & into the wood with a drill around #70 size which allows Peco Pins to be hammered lightly home to hold track without too much problems.  Possibly one pin in 20 bends !

I wonder if we're talking about the same pin Sol……:roll:

The Peco ones I've had are so thin I doubt they'd take a hammer ………  I think the idea is that you push them through the sleeper with either a pin pusher or pliers.  They're quite long but probably superb for fixing track to the old "Peco" recommended structure of their track, their foam rubber underlay and Sundeala baseboard.

I've got 2 or 3 packets spare because I forgot Hattons sell that type.  I'm blowed if I know who makes my favoured ones but they're shorter and thicker but still that blue/black colour.  I can't even remember who I bought them from but NOT Hattons ……………….

Yes Peter SL14 14mm long and a small hammer like these
Hobby Hammer with Interchangeable Tips   work well - I have used them for years  pre-drilling into MDF.

Ah - that explains a lot Sol.  I tend to use a 7lb lump hammer …………………….

I do use a small tack hammer but maybe I should drill deeper ………:roll::roll:

Well I've been using Peco N gauge track since the 1970s and the only time I recall having it come adrift from the chairs is with code 80 when I was trying to lift it. I can see it might happen with code 80 but never with code 55, nearly a third of that is buried in the sleepers.

Hmm.
Laying long curves can be tricky.
Tracksetta plates are handy but limit you to fixed radius curves.
I do use them where they suit a plan.
My other method is to use those long drawing pins with plastic handles.
Lay the track flat with one end a short distance before where you want the curve to start.
Push in pins up against the outside of the rail edges on either side between the sleepers, Say 4 pins opposite each other to hold the straight section.
Next start working a curve into the rail pinning again either side as you progress.
You will end up with a nice smooth curve which can be easily adjusted if neccessary if you want to vary the curve radius..
The pins also hold the curve ends for cutting to accept the next length of rail too which you continue with pins to extend the curve.
When happy you can pin the track down tacking the sleeper's.
Or running glue underneath the sleeper ends.
As the drawing pins are long you can gently lift the sleepers and work in some glue. I find a dab of evostick placed onto either a strip of flat plastic or shiney card ideal to use for working the glue under the sleeper ends.
Useing glue on sharp model radius curves in this fashion limits gauge rail closure which can happen if you pin the middle of sleeper,s.

regards,

Derek.