I bought a second-hand Hornby Oliver Cromwell (BR Standard Class 7) at the weekend and, unsurprisingly for a thirty-odd year old model, it’s a bit dirty.  Not the slightly grotty wheels sort of dirt, but years of accumulated oil and grease (mixed up with dust and fluff) on the chassis and wheels.  Dirt on the axles was increasing the friction where they pass though the chassis and the movement of the valve gear and rods was sticky.  Furthermore, it is my experience that some oils will happily soften some of the plastic components over time, resulting in them breaking up.  So, it was time for a complete dismantling for a thorough clean!  Most of my locomotives are second-hand and this is a process I’ve done many times before, so I thought that this would be a good opportunity to explain how I do it to those who may be a bit hesitant to reduce their models down to their component parts. 


Here are the tools I use…



From left to right:

Electric toothbrush (with old, soft brush head)

Washing up liquid (I’ve chosen ‘Pink Grapefruit and Garden Mint’ but the choice is yours ;-))

Toilet paper

Brush (preferably soft)

Fibreglass pen

Electrolube pen (electrical contact cleaner and lubricant)

Oil

Screwdrivers (small flathead and Phillips)

Something to keep all the bits in!



Dismantling



Start by removing the body, in this case by removing the small screw in front of the smoke box (1).  The bogie and pony truck are removed with a screw each (2).  Then, using a very small flathead screwdriver, remove the screws holding the valve gear, coupling rods etc. to the centre driving wheels (3).  You may find it useful to take a photo of these parts before you start to guide you during reassembly.  Also, try not to mix the parts from either side (left connecting rod with right valve gear, for example!).  A screw on the underside releases the plastic cylinders (4) and removing the metal weight on top of the chassis releases the plastic arm supporting the valve gear (5).  Finally, the electrical pickup assembly underneath (6) is removed with two screws.

This locomotive is more awkward than most as the pony truck is permanently attached to the tender.  Additionally, the wires (7) from the electrical pickups on the chassis to the tender are soldered at both ends so I had to cut them to separate the pieces.  When I reassemble the locomotive I’ll use a small plug and socket here to make future dismantling easier.  I normally leave the wheels as they are since removing them from their axles can cause damage and its not particularly easy lining everything up again during reassembly.

Now for the cleaning.  Wet the parts to be cleaned and scrub away with the toothbrush, using a small drop of washing up liquid.  Metal components are nice and tough but take care of the plastic ones, especially those with paint on.  Rinse thoroughly with water to remove the soap and, for the metal parts, use hot water (to help them dry quicker and evaporate all the water from the nooks and crannies).  Use the toilet paper to thoroughly dry the insides of any screw holes.

The steel connecting rods, coupling rods and valve gear may, if they are old, have light rust on them.  This can be carefully removed using a fibreglass pen to lightly polish the surface.  The pen is also particularly useful for cleaning the electrical pickups that touch the wheels (leaving them with a gleaming, spotless finish and much improved electrical conductivity) and the wheel surfaces themselves.  Where the electrical pickups touch the wheels, I use a drop of Electrolube cleaning fluid to improve the electrical contact.

The plastic body should be treated carefully as the paint may be in a delicate state. Warm water and gentle brushing being best.

During reassembly, LIGHTLY oil all the moving parts but before doing this remove any dust using a soft brush.  Where the axles pass through the chassis will need oiling.  With a ‘dry’ joint the wheels will usually vibrate slightly when you spin them causing them to stop sooner than expected.  With the right amount of oil they should spin smoothly and quietly.  One SMALL drop of oil should be sufficient on each of the crank pins on the centre driving wheels and it is easiest to do this after you’ve reattached all the rods and valve gear.  Remember, don’t over oil since this will undo all your hard work and encourage dirt to stick to the loco again!

I’ve left out the motor to keep this short, but much the same applies.  However, be careful with the armature.  Don’t wash it or use abrasive cleaners on it and don’t be tempted to rub the electrical surfaces with a fibreglass pen.  I only use Electrolube and lots of polishing with toilet paper to clean the metal.  Also, I’d be inclined to leave the magnet and carbon brushes entirely alone.
 
By the end of this you should have a much cleaner, smoother and happier locomotive!

:doublethumb

Rick, thanks for an excellent set of illustrated instructions.

Rick

A very good how to many locos would run a great deal better if they recieved maintainance as you have outlined

cheers brian

Superb instruction "book" Wallregg thumbs

Everyone should be able to follow that and I would guess there are plenty of locos out there requiring that kind of treatment. :cheers

Good one Wallreg!:doublethumb

Got to be yet another for the Forum Index. Great how to.

Yes Bob, it's a really comprehensive guide to giving your service and clean. If it goes in the index close to my original guide for a complete overhaul of an XP4 motor, it will form  comprehensive guidance for anyone wishing to tackle a neglected loco.

3xHornby Brittania locos being stripped tomorrow, as you say 30 years of dirt (am I really that old)

From one Rick to another may I pass on my thanks for your clear method of keeping the wheels turning.

I have a couple of older items well into their forties and which have not been looked after to the highest degree by past owners.  I find similar tactics to yours have produced satisfactory results.

May I add a couple of things?

First it might seem obvious but do make sure your locomotive is not in any way connected to the power before you attempt to dismantle it.  It sounds so obvious and 12 volts is not likely to do most people much harm but it sound practise with all things electrical to check first. 

I also place the locomotive to be dismantled onto a short length of track which is never connected to a controller but which is connected to earth; any piece of clean scrap or spare rail will do.  This will ensure any residual current or static remaining in the loco after running has been discharged.  Again you might consider this unnecessary but I take electrical precautions seriously and there is no line to be drawn - everything gets the same treatment.

I also use a couple of tools for removing fluff or hairs from the wheels or pickups "on the fly" to prevent build up and a bigger job later.  A long thin wooden-grip probe can be used to tease a piece of fluff or a stray hair out from a gear or pickup or from between spokes and it can then be grasped and removed with a pair of long-nose grips (or tweezers), preferably of the kind which have a scissors action and an angled business end.

 

 

Great stuff!