Great Western King Class

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Quesion on the Valve Covers

Hi Everyone,

Recently I purchased two of Hornby's King classes. They are very nice models, good performers and look excellent (apart from the typical flat Hornby GWR green). However, I have a small issue Dad accidentally ordered a second model of one of the locos we already had (#6016 'King Edward V'). So now we have 3 Kings with 2 being the same loco, this is not a major issue and we are not going to send it back it is just a matter of re-naming and re-numbering one.

I would like to however, re-number/name it to one of the later batch of engines (#6023 'King Edward II) as this loco was based at Newton Abbot throughout it's GWR working life and this is the most appropriate shed for where I am modelling. However, there comes an issue with this, the second batch of King Classes built in 1930 (#6020-6029) which the only initial difference was the inside cylinder valve covers, see the picture.
I would only need to purchase these parts (along with the number and name plates) but I don't know where to get these covers. Is there any castings or could I somehow scratch-build them?

The bottom loco is the one I want to model. Whereas, both models are like the valve covers on the top photo.

Regards Connor 

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Hi Connor, no idea if these are parts that you can buy, but looking at the picture, the mod doesn't seem too difficult.  If the footplate is mazac grinding will be tedious but doable.

I'm interested in seeing how you do this.

John

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Might be worth getting in touch with Will's Finecast. They do a King Kit so they might have the ones you want.

I'm old, that's why I'm allowed to change my mind, when I can find it.

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Hi Connor,

Postwar Castles had the same valve chest covers, as did at least 2 of the earlier Kings, King George V (6000) and Henry VIII (6013).

Cut the protruding valve rod knob off each cover, replace with 2 bits of styrene smoothed to shape (cut oblongs from strip to size, round front and top corners). Dimensions before putting a radius on the top and front and a compound radius on the corner are: 2.35mm wide, 2.60mm high, 2.8mm long (4mm scale, taken from FJ Roche). The front top should be level with the slope of the frame.They may look over-scale as Hornby have probably reduced the width of the body to allow for the 16.5mm gauge (they did on their Castle model), if so reduce the width slightly. Glue in place, paint. The width of a King across the front footplate should be 34.2mm. 

TMR put one them on their weathered models of the 6000, looks like a bit of plastic sleeve. Lima in their BR 6000 also got it right.

You could always get a Castle body shell or a Lima GWR 6000 body shell and transplant the covers. Cheaper to make your own though.

PM me if you want more details of the dimensions and positions.

Nigel 

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Hi Nigel,Thanks for the reply. I knew the Castles had those covers but the thought didn't even cross my mind of transplanting them and as I have an older Hornby Castle with those covers, I will be doing that. Could it be best to do this with a small sharp craft knife compared to pliers such as xurons?


Regards Connor

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Hi Connor,


Now as you have a template with the Castle, you could try something  before starting on the hackery and butchery. Get some of that 2 part  flexible mold epoxy and cast your very own in resin, epoxy or white  metal. The other thing to check is whether the covers are separately attached detail pieces that can be detached with a thin blade. If I find my Castle (it could be here or in storage) I'll have a look.

If you don't care about the old Castle and they are definitely molded in, I'd use a fine tooth saw blade in a scalpel holder (flexible blade), and make up any difference in height and depth with some thin styrene sheet (in fact I'd cut the whole section out and trim down). Scalpel blades are not that flexible, a big utility blade will not give a flat cut. Xurons will probably deform the plastic (or the bits will fly off never to be found). That said, by the time you've sawed them off and added styrene you could have made 2 (more like 6) from scratch.

It's a really neat detailing touch. I've never owned a GWR King, and never really gave much thought about the different rod covers. The difference is pretty noticeable in photographs. I suspect the reason a few early Kings also had them would be a slight difference in steam chest design (longer rod throw) in the later batch (too much temptation as a step), and when new steam chests were installed in the older ones at a major overhaul. Interesting that Hornby got it right on the Castles but didn't bother changing it for the later Kings. .

Nigel

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