Help required please.

Hi Terry

The Model Shop for Big Imaginations | Gaugemaster

You need to swap A and B ……the wires to the switch. Now the blade position will match the required power feed (polarity)

HTH

Regards

John
 

No problem
I assume it works now?

No prizes for guessing how I knew the solution:oops:

Cheers

John

Is it the point where you soldered in an additional power supply?
I will send a second email showing how I would trouble shoot…..give me a few minutes

John

Its difficult doing this n thousand miles away!

Try swapping  the power feeds from the track to the D and E terminals of the point motor.

If that doesnt work a photo of the terminals and the underside of the point would help.

If you have (or could borrow) some form of multimeter or current sensing device  …..a 12v bulb with two wires would be enough…… we just need to find what current ie + or - is being fed thru F to the frog when the switch GM510 is thrown

Cheers

John

Hi Terry,

Sounds like a short at the frog (caused by the locomotive wheels) or a faulty insulator. Check the BTB as well. Does it happen with all locomotives?

You've probably done all of this, but just in case:

Use a multimeter to check polarity when the points are switched, if OK it's a shorting issue, if not it's a wiring issue twixt the SEEP and the frog.

Does it still have the original power routing wiring?  A well used frog will have wear on the plastic floor. Any grooves there? That can cause a too-narrow BTB to track. If not power routed that gap where the 2 closure rails come together and then form  the frog wings is a problem area (although would affect both  directions).

I've noticed in some recent examples that the frog rails often have a lip as they are not soldered together. That will cause the wheels to jog.

Disconnect the frog wiring from the SEEP, and run a long wheelbase locomotive through (dead frog). If OK try swapping the SEEP motor frog wiring for one nearby you know works. No need to disconnect the motors.

Nigel

:thumbs
John

Hi Terry,
the Peco PL-10 or PL-10W turnout double coil motors using AC Impulse for switching turnout into other direction. The switchen motors have 4 pins for soldering cables onto it.
The two inner pins needed to be soldered together it will be connected by cable to the middle pin of your switch and to the frog of the turnout. Onto the both outer pins you will soldering one cable to each pin, also alltogether two cables. Each cable you are wirering to the outer pin of your switch and to the outer track of your turnout. By switching with 16 V to 18 V AC your tournout should nove into other direction and changing its polarity correctly. If it will be not working like expeted than change the polarity of the both outer cable wires.


In my drawing the blue and yellow wires are important for you.
The yellow wire need to be connected to the both middle pins of the Peco Double Coil Motor, each of the blue wires to one of the outer pins of the Double Coil Motor.
When using Double Coil Motors it is important that you are using switches what giving short current impulses when layed in other switch position that the coils will not get current all the time.
In my Drawing I used double switches with longer made hand thrawbar than drilled a small hole into the thrawbar (small diameter brass pipes) and took a piano cord as lever cord to connect the switch thrawbar with the turnout stwitching tie. So I get cheap turnout levers which are working like the humpyard levers. Indicator lights or double LEDs can be added, too.