Which solder to use?
Posted
#233846
(In Topic #12821)
Full Member
So had to start a new and hopefully short topic - what solder should I use for the best all round results, simple stuff like wiring points, power supply droppers, etc? Having a search on the web it seems that a 63/37 or 60/40 mix are recommended … there are also strong leanings towards resin core. Also seems to be a little hard to source such solder unless you're prepared to wait a few weeks for it to be shipped from China.
Any advice welcome please on type to use and a uk based outlet. To flux or not to flux, that is the question :-)
Thank you,
Paul
Posted
Inactive Member
I use 1.0 mm diameter 60% tin 40% lead resin core. Never had a problem.
I buy it in 1 kg rolls.
I used liquid flux once (on PCB ties). Never again. It made a terrible mess and caused collateral damage.
Now. Where did I put that tin hat and flak jacket?
Max
Port Elderley
Port Elderley
Posted
Site staff
so does Hattons
DCC Concepts DCS-S179 Universal solder
and Antics Online Model Shops and Hobby Stores
and Gaugemaster
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
Posted
Site staff
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
Posted
Full Member
You can also get Rosin flux which smells nice but it makes a sticky mess.
I have a big roll of 60/40 uncored solder - equivalent to 188 solder.
Most of my soldering is kits, but I only use non acid flux these days - saves my nasal passages from vicious fumes.
John
John
Posted
Guest user
6% acid flux cleans and assists solder to flow adequately well in brass work, nickel silver work but is, or can be, harsh in thin wires. However, its use will ensure enhanced jointing and connection work.
The trick here is not to use too much, and to keep the joint clean. Only the slightest "swipe" of flux from a brush is all that's required. (I have never had damage or corrosion with 6%).
"Frys" (in a big yellow tub) as used for plumbing is a good cheap paste but again residue can spoil the surface of brass and cables and green Verdigris can be a problem.
In ALL cases, I recommend a wash following jointing; a brush dipped in water is usually sufficient to remove flux traces, followed by a wipe with a cloth.
I'm talking small area soldering here, not necessarily brass '0' gauge or gauge1 modelling.
Flux cleaner is available and a quick spray onto the joint, followed by a wipe with a cloth (if accessible) will ensure sufficient cleanliness.
Circuit boards/Vero board work can be flushed following a session with flux cleaner / PCB cleaner and is usually ok for our purposes.
A good clean joint can be enhanced by using a good quality flux and I recommend using it in all applications.
Good Luck.
Posted
Full Member
Posted
Full Member
For general work cored solder (electrical, dropper wiring, rail joiners) is fine. The modern ones do not leave a mess ("Low Residue"). Just make sure the surfaces are clean and oxidation free (#400 grit, IPA). I use cheap soldering irons from Amazon, temperature controlled pen types (ceramic heater element). Current one has lasted almost 18 months and cost $16 post-free with half a dozen tips.
The cost of a new tip for an expensive iron such as a Weller is often almost as much as a cheap iron and tips..Get some tinning compound to condition the tips on a regular basis, use a wet sponge to wipe the tip when working, and the tips will last several years.
I also use regular lead/tin and organic no-residue flux for a lot of jobs where I don't want to clean off flux residue (wiring decoders or motor terminals for example). Lead free solders are more difficult to work with than lead ones, and IMO just as toxic. Brass and white metal model building is another story.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
Posted
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John
John
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