new layout help with wiring
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Here is the basic wiring schematic for cab control and an isolated section.
Have a practice with a few bits of track first - its easier to see in the flesh sometimes and you can trace where the power is going. I have ignored the 16vAC or 240v power in connections to the controller here.
Note that the red and black wires from the DPDT switch central connections go to the feed and return for the track. The red wires for the isolating section go to the feed side only.
If you want some help, let me know and I will flesh out the whole schematic and stick in the post to the West Country.
Happy wiring!!
Barry
Last edit: by Barry Miltenburg
Shed dweller, Softie Southerner and Meglomaniac
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Without trying to create an issue, and having now seen the diagram and thinking of possible operations, I feel that the blocks can be cut down to 6 switches.
My own design was on the following premises
1) Bob has professed to not being terribly confident wiring wise - using common rail saves half the wiring and make fault finding easier
2) Bob has either two controllers or a gaugemaster which allows for common rail use
3) The control panel will have a little more room to work around.
The single pole switch (preferably centre off) could also then be a block on/block off if it is only a case of one engine in steam.
Bob, I can understand the trepidation you have - I have similar trepidation to restoring parts of my own layout, let alone adding extra signals etc for a variety of reasons - however it is your railway and up to you to decide the way you want to go!
Cheers
Trevor
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I do not want to upset anyone here either - nor would I try to dictate my way or the highway. I am pleased that both Paul and Barry were prepared to have a go at helping you with Paul drawing (pardon the pun) on the lessons with his layout which he picked up on very quickly! None of us are forever so that passing of knowledge is important to me but not quite so much even that as the willingness to impart it.
However there are more ways to skin the proverbial cat with regards to wiring. Barry did make a suggestion which I could reduce the wiring involved so I will make another post with that modification in mind using his diagram. Ultimately you have to go with what you are comfortable with doing - as I say - it is YOUR railway!
Drawing to follow!
Cheers
Trevor
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Cheers
Trevor
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Barry
Shed dweller, Softie Southerner and Meglomaniac
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One of my mates has a grandson that has just turned 4 and can uncouple Kadee with the little uncoupling rod & drive DCC trains after selecting the loco without any problems. He even knows the turnouts & the panels for same and watches for the signals.
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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Red to red
Black to black
Blue to bits ………………………
'Petermac
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Last edit: by Bobby098
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Shed dweller, Softie Southerner and Meglomaniac
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cheers
Paul
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Why not just have a switch that you can select either DC or DCC? If you don't mind a one engine in steam running session, all your planks could be so converted and easily so! Having said that, could you fit an N scale decoder to a pug? OK you won't have sound but do you need it?
If you need a wiring diagram, let me know but I would think it fairly straight forward,
Cheers
Trevor
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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What I was inferring is that the smaller N scale decoders could fit into the space available as long as the current was not an issue. I have a Caledonian Pug which elder daughter sent as a birthday present from England when she lived there. The current draw on the Mabuchi style motor should be OK but I have a Canon motor - in fact I have a few which I will one day fit to the pug to make it a smoother runner at the low end.
Personally, I have no intention of going DCC but two locos I have bought in recent times have chips in them and I did have two chips from Hattons which worked very well with straight DC - they ran very smoothly at the club - but did not seem like my throttles much so I have the chips spare for now!
Check the current draw of the Pug and see if it is in the range of the Chip. There should be enough room but maybe not for a speaker!
Cheers
Trevor
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