Running in a new loco

Hi All.    This isn't my first new Loco, but I am never certain as to how long it has to be run on DC, before one fits a Decoder . Half an hour each way? But at the time of writing, I only have a "four foot long plank".
I can only assume that is on a full size layout. Please advise. Kevin

Kevin, if you haven't got a roundy-roundy layout, then that is when a Rolling Road is handy
https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/rolling-road-multi-gauge-6-axle/
http://www.rollingrails.co.uk/

Hi Ron.   Thank you for your reply. That sounds a good idea, but, I haven't got one right now .I suppose I could purchase one, but when I mentioned s rolling Road on,the forum before, I had some negative remarks 
made about them . And at the time it put me off buying one.    All the best. Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Rolling roads are very useful, not just for "running in". Good investment.

I'm personally not sure about this running-in business. Especially with modern nylon/delrin gear sets and precision (CNC machine) cut hard brass worms. I suspect the most significant effect is on the motor - wearing the brush face to the profile of the commutator or bedding in the bearings. I use a fair amount of Ultrascale and NWSL products, none of their gear sets seem to need running-in.

If running-in is recommended, it begs the question - what is it doing? If like an older car it is to remove those bits of metal/plastic that shouldn't be there shouldn't running in be followed by a meticulous clean and relube to get rid of bits from the lubricants?

As NWSL puts it: "You can't wear a gear in, you can only wear it out".  

Nigel

Hi Kevin

Assuming you have a DC controller, which is what you would need to power a DC loco on a rolling road, you could just buy a circle of setrack curves for about £10.

Set up the circle of track on the kitchen table or whatever, connect the DC power supply and run-in any DC loco for as long as you like.


Ed

Hi Ed.  Thank you.  I never gave that a thought, as far as a D C controller is concerned I have an "entry level" Bachmann DC controller, basic, but effective.  All the best. Kevim

Hi Nigel.  Thank you. You are doing it again? talking in riddles that is, way above my knowledge ! I would like to know more about DCC and model railways, but, it would seem that everyone has had a model railway, during the the 40 odd years that I was travelling half way around the world on "Trains, Boats and Aeroplanes". But you can't have your cake and eat it. Well I'm here now and trying to catch up. All the best. Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Riddles? One of the things in this hobby that really helps is knowing what you are working with.

With all this improved precision and materials, what are we actually doing when running in that engine? I really don't know why we do it (motor excepted, and that's probably been run in at the factory anyway).

If you do use a circle of track, remember to flip the engine around every now and again to equalize the centrifugal force on the bearings. And to run it backwards and forwards. Very important. So I've read. So it must be true.  ;-) ;-)

Nigel

Hi Nigel     Well okay, not so much riddles, but, very technical for early morning. I can see your point about motor brushes, but then again as you say all that should be done at the factory. What is the life expectancy of a "Chinese Railroad/Railway Motor"? And is it possible to replace such small parts? Even if it is the majority of collectors  don't seem to run them , but admire them in wall mounted cases, or store them away for resale on eBay or wherever Personally I don't drive, but do new cars have to be run in now? Years ago one would often see a car with a sticker in the rear window "Running In" .Modern drivers may not take too much notice of yesterday's standards, they just want to get there at any cost.
All the best. Kevin

Hi Ed.  I meant to ask you, if I purchased some "set track" to build a circle for running in Loco's ? It would take up a lot of space to accommodate large locos, fair enough. But is that " pre owned" track? At the price you mentioned and what radius would that be?     All the best Kevin 

Hi  Kevin

Think the ones I saw were a set of used R607 2nd radius double curves x 8 on eBay.

They would have to be 2nd radius minimum, so you'd need a 4' x 4' space  to set them up.

Hattons have them new for £18, but you'd have to add £4 postage to that.

http://www.hattons.co.uk/6944/Hornby_R607_Circle_of_8_2nd_radius_double_curve_track_8_make_a_circle_/StockDetail.aspx

But, since then I was advised of this rolling road on another forum.

http://www.directtrainspares-burnley.co.uk/page25.html

Don't know if they're any good, but are a much more reasonable price than other rolling roads I've seen.

Personally  a rolling road is a 'nice to have' rather than a necessity, as I can just remove my DCC locos from Latton Fields and plug in my DC controller to run-in any locos. Easy for me, as I don't have that many locos on the layout at any one time.


Ed

Hi Ed.  Thank you.  I will have to think about that, as I have heard some different opinions on this forum about rolling Roads. And it wasn't anything to do with price, quality, or WHY.     Kevin

Hi Kevin,

A good quality rolling road is not that expensive. Mine cost around £30 (IBachryus). It only needs 15" of track, which for the space challenged is a godsend.

Nigel

BCDR wrote:

Hi Kevin,

Riddles? One of the things in this hobby that really helps is knowing what you are working with.

With all this improved precision and materials, what are we actually doing when running in that engine? I really don't know why we do it (motor excepted, and that's probably been run in at the factory anyway).

If you do use a circle of track, remember to flip the engine around every now and again to equalize the centrifugal force on the bearings. And to run it backwards and forwards. Very important. So I've read. So it must be true.  ;-) ;-)

Nigel


Hi Nigel.  Have you had a change of heart,  On rolling Roads?     Kevin      

 

Hi Kevin,

Not for running in. Most of what I buy is already "run in" or either "ruined", so there is really no point. Making sure that diesel locomotive goes as it should, checking the wiring on a DC to DCC conversion (with a blanking plug) and then testing the decoder when the CVs are being adjusted/changed. They are also very useful for checking wheel quartering/binding/eccentricity with steam locomotives. You can get close-up and personal with the wheels at eye level (I use the magnifying lamp). Even works with powered tenders. Also very useful for painting diesel wheels at slow RPM with a decent sable brush and a steady hand.

They're not just for running in (which I'm still not convinced about with modern model locomotives), as anything that needs running in probably doesn't have the tolerances it should have. There is a reason why an Ultrascale wheelset can cost almost as much as the new locomotive. Case in point, Bachmann Collett Goods from Hattons, (pre-order) £94, Ultrascale wheel set for same - £91.98. I've never run in anything from Ultrascale or Alan Gibson Workshop.

Just checked the latest price here - $71.00. I've had mine at least 10 years. Another very useful piece of gear, especially if space is an issue.

Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you. You always make some good points on a subject. I only base my comments on Your Model Railway .net forums. At the time of writing,  " I am spreading myself rather thin", with so many different activities .And falling to sleep at the wrong time of day.   All the best.  Kevin