how do I.....

I'm thinking of freelancing or scratchbuilding some foamboard buildings and scribing the building stone on with a ball point pen - as I've seen in other posts. Having acquired a supply of 5mm white board for the job, I'm trying to think through the build before getting out the scalpels, and wondered how one went about dealing with the inside edges of window and door apertures/reveals, as putting the assembled windows/ doors flush with the outer wall edge seems to be a wrong approach, visually.

I've seen corners dealt with by routing out one edge with a scalpel blade fitted to the earth probe of a 13amp plug (think it was by Chubber - not sure) thereby allowing both outer surfaces to mate together hiding the core of foam. Can a similar approach be made with windows by bending in the flap?

Is there some generally accepted way of overcoming the sight of raw edges of foamboard in window and door slots but still retaining the depth of the reveal and scribed stonework when building with foamboard?

I have had a go at modeling with foam . I quite liked it found it fast and easily glued with pva.  I found i needed a sharp blade so as to create a clean cut ,and applied different pressures until i found the best.   there is a decorators "lightweight filler"  which is ideal for covering the foam ,needs to dry overnight then sand down before scribing . the other method is to cover with scalescenes paper .  I tried to remove part of the foam filler to form a nice mitre with the plastic film left ,but my skills would not stretch that far.
It may be necessary to fill the foam edge with the filler to get the sharp corner .
I have to pop out now ,but will try to put up a photo later.
BTW i don,t profess to be an expert ,but did try the same material .

Thanks Reg.

I must confess that although I've got a huge array of Scalescenes kits I'm going off them a bit now as with failing eyesight etc I can't see them as well as others do and consequently don't feel the appreciation of them as much as I did when I first got them, they somehow seem too flat. But I won't knock them as I think they're a brilliant concept and I know they have a huge fan base. 

I find now that I want something with a bit of relief to it and thought pressing a ball point pen into some foamboard might do it for me and is something that I can probably manage as it shouldn't need sawing, hammering, or soldering - I'll have to wait and see what they turn out like before settling on doing it hardcore…

The filler you mention is probably decorators caulk which I've used many times before mainly when working under instruction from SWMBO doing the decorating for her. We've got a good decorating system - I do all the woodwork etc with paint, then when I've done my bit, she moves into the room and wallpapers, but she's getting a bit crafty in her old age by using anaglypta which saves her having to wallpaper every time but increases my work load considerably - the system works for us tho'…..

Hi there,
Foam core works OK but make sure your cutting edge whether it be with a scalpel or a disposable bit blade.
You can see some of my first efforts at http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=9718&forum_id=14&highlight=foam+core+trevor#p179049 as well as http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=9679&forum_id=14&highlight=signal+box+trainz
If you want any of the drawings, let me know,
Regards
Trevor

[user=1739]16A[/user] wrote:

Thanks Reg.








The filler you mention is probably decorators caulk which I've used many times before mainly when working under instruction from SWMBO doing the decorating for her.

'Fraid not Mike, lightweight filler is more like a 'weightwatchers' version of Polyfilla.

Decorators caulk doesn't dry hard, it would be a bu&&er to try and rub down,
it would tend to 'roll' off the surface.






Jeff

Thanks Jeff

The only actual 'lightweight' filler I know of is the stuff made by Woodland Scenics which I think is called Hydracal, Hydracol or something like that. If anyone knows of any other lightweight filler maybe they'd be good enough to post the brand name on here for the benefit of all…..

The lightweight filler comes in a tub Mike and is readily available in  B&Q ,wickes, etc.  Dries hard but a bit chalky easily applied smooth, or rubs down easily .
Google it Mike ,that may give you an idea.  Not very expensive and goes a long way.:thumbs

Thanks Reg, I'll have a google…..

If you go to RMWeb Card Structure Modelling   and look at the sticky there it shows my way of dealing with simple structures, don't  know ig will help..

I don't  seem  to be  able  to copy  and paste a link here from my tablet.

Doug

In my experience, decorators caulk will take paint readily but doesn't sand too well …………..:roll:

There's a lightweight filler made for the model aircraft guys - "Model-Lite" by Deluxe Materials I think it is ………….almost too light to weigh ………

Hydrocal by Woodland Scenics is just a lightweight plaster for things like rock moulds etc.  I've never used it so can't say how light it is.

For window and door reveals, you could just wrap them with brick papers - the window cills and lintels would have to be glued on anyway -  or, because it's such a small area, what about DAS air dried clay ? :roll:

I agree, Peter, I would line the openings  from  the back with plain paper, folding it through from  behind,  allow the PVA to dry thoroughly  (12 hrs ) then slice off the protruding front paper.  One of the few times  I'd use a razor blade.

Doug

You could try cutting window and door openings from the "back" but only cutting through the back card and foam, leaving the "front" card in place then cut the front card with a corner to corner "X" and fold that in and stick to the back, similar to how you might do when sticking printed brick paper onto card. You would still have a small amount of foam to deal with at the corners

I'm at a bit of a loss with this thread.
Wouldn't the inside edge of the windows and doors be the same as the front!
eg: Brick quoins = front and sides of windows.
      Stone would be the same, would it not!

Anyway, as a suggestion for lightweight putty, have you thought about the Tamiya one in a tube. I use a tiny artist spatula to apply when I need some.

Khris

Yes Khris, they would be the same but if you cut an opening in foam board, you see the cellular core.  Covering that with either brick papers or filler (carved to show brick lines) hides it. :thumbs

[user=1397]Dorsetmike[/user] wrote:

You could try cutting window and door openings from the "back" but only cutting through the back card and foam, leaving the "front" card in place then cut the front card with a corner to corner "X" and fold that in and stick to the back, similar to how you might do when sticking printed brick paper onto card. You would still have a small amount of foam to deal with at the corners

This is similar to how I considered doing it but, instead of an 'X' I was thinking of an 'I' shaped incision, folding the two verticals round the upright and gluing in a lintel and cill as per Peters suggestion, but to do it this way you have to get the foam core off the 'I' in order to fold it. I suppose, once the 'I' has been cut if I measure the amount required for the fold and then slice vertically again, I could slice the foam off the back using a razor blade to leave just the front card.

I think some more research and possibly experimentation is called for but thanks for all your terrific ideas - much appreciated.

Off to have a look at Chubbers Sticky now for some more inspiration and then I have a small de-railing problem to sort out as, until yesterday, I hadn't run trains round my layout for about 18 months which is when this revealed itself - it's two toe to toe handmade points causing me a bit of grief, okay at slow speeds but any faster and occasionally the odd coach bogie will slip off…

I'll get back later and, thanks again…..

Thanks Peter!
I see in the next response 16A has mentioned about folding the cover around.
I obviously (not uncommon) misunderstood the way it was being used, in that I expected that the cover was to be taken off to scribe the foam itself.

All makes sense now!
Dóh, I'll bury me head back in the sand!  :)

Khris

I could slice the foam off the back using a razor blade to leave just the front card.

I was thinking remove the foam with a chisel blade in the craft knife.

Yes, that's the way Mike (Dorsetmike).  You'd have difficulty getting normal razor blade in there Mike (16A) ………..