Small Portable Baseboard

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#143529 (In Topic #7801)
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About to launch out on a small 009 layout, as we do not have room for a layout anywhere it needs to be small and light as it will be stored on top of a wardrobe.  

I have come up with the attached, thought ply would be the best material.

Would welcome any comments.



Roy.
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Bod
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Like the idea of trying to make it one compact unit but - just a thought - wouldn't the fiddle yard be vulnerable folded underneath. (That's assuming that its standing on it as in your diagram.)

Perhaps one at the other end would make standing it easier and increase operational interest?

Last edit: by Bod

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Bod's got a point there. :roll::roll:

Couldn't you make the base deeper so the fiddle folds under and up (to invert a well known rugby quote ;-)) between the underside "cheeks".  Then it would be protected inside it's own "pocket".:hmm

Otherwise, it's a very neat idea …….:thumbs

'Petermac
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Thought at the moment is to use cassettes, but I like the idea of the FY folding inside the main frame, will give it some thought.

Roy.
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Hi Roy,

I would agree with Petermac's comment. Just make the fiddle yard narrower and shallower than the main board and attach the hinges to the baseboard, rather than the frame itself.

Cheers, Gary.
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Thanks for all the replies, change of plan now, going back to 7mm NG as per my Crackington Quay, therefore have come up with following:


Ends up as a box 36" x 18" x 12" high and will fit in a cupboard that we have, would think a small sector plate would be best for fiddle yard.

Bit concerned if 4mm ply and strip wood are strong enough, but do not want it to be too heavy, any thoughts?

Thanks,

Roy. 
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Hi Roy,

We had this discussion about 4mm Ply at a Model Railway Club I was Chairman of. I offered to build a test board and walk on it. Cue howls of laughter:roll:.

I did make the board and walked across it with absolutely no harm to the board. You will have to make diagonal strips under the board to stop it twisting. It can twist no matter how well you make it.

The same technique was used by me to make a baseboard for a friend and that layout has been around for 6 years with no signs of failure. Layout packs up in 10 minutes at the end of an exhibition.:lol:

Simon

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Thanks Simon, sounds good enough for me, just got to make it now!

Roy.
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Hi Roy,

Forgot to mention if you make the layout the same width and height as I did my friend's you can put the hinges at 45 degrees, so one on the backscene and one at the front of the baseboard where you have yours illustrated when you fold the boards together you have a box already made and it just needs an end to cover what was the middle of the board.




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Looks interesting Simon, would give me more space, the bit that bothers me is how to get the correct angle for the hinges.

Roy.
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As long as you have the base board and back scene board the same dimensions (depth/height) and the bevel where the hinges sit at 45*, it should be fine.

Cheers, Gary.
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Been giving this idea some thought, the downside would seem to be that having buildings near the front would be a problem, they could well clash with each other.

Think on second thoughts that I will go with my triangular board, have clear height for scenery and buildings over all the area.

Thanks anyway for the suggestions.

Roy.
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Hi Roy,

There was a triangular layout in Continental Modeller recently (can't find it now I want it of course:roll:). It is a nice idea as it lets you fold the scenic bits into the middle so less damage. Don't forget you'll need a cover for the bits that were in the middle of the layout.

I get over the buildings clashing problem partly by having a dockside at the front of the layout and also if you work it out carefully then the buildings can interleave and not clash. It pays to do a small scale mock up first, better than hearing a nasty crunch the first time it is folded up:roll:.

Good luck with the build.

Simon
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