I am about to make a start to the new layout and the first thing I want to do is lay boarding of some kind on top of my current baseboards. My current boarding is a mixture of bits n pieces of 9 ml ply. I am aware some of you will be thinking , just lay the track on the ply that's there but I would really like to (1) tidy the look of the boards (2) add a bit more thickness to perhaps lessen the echo kind of sound that comes from the boards at the moment. So I'm just back from the builders merchant with prices for three possibilities as follows.
1. Sundela pinboard , 2240x1220x9.5ml @ £20 + vat
2.polystyrene , 2240x1220x25ml @ £4 +vat
3. Kingspan , 2240x1220x25ml @ £12 + vat

Your thoughts and experience of these three options would be appreciated.

Regards John

Hi John,i don't have any experience of any of those except i know i wouldn't use polystyrene.You could consider cork with some closed cell foam on top or just use the closed cell foam on top of your ply and then paint the non track areas either green or brown which when you do your scenics will be a base colour from which to start.I used Woodland Scenics trackbed although you can get sheets of similar materials,ie.Plastazote.

You could try lining the board with some 3mm MDF and then a layer of eight inch cork sheeting, or just use some cork floor tiles.

Call me old fashioned but I would go with ply for the top.  If you put it over the existing top, 1/4" (6mm I think) might be OK.  I think 1/4" ply by itself is too wimbly and would go for 3/8" if I was starting from scratch.  I've read that Sundeala is far from ideal but haven't used it myself.  Don't know what Kingspan is.

As for track underlay, I have used cork in the past, glued to the board with contact cement.  For my next layout, I plan to use the foam underlay from Woodland Scenics and C&L.

John

The only think I can think of against foam  is if you want to use point motors under the board, I use 50mm of Polyfoam insulation board supported by some "reclaimed" chipboard, rack is laid on cut up cork tiles. Pints mostareoperated by wire in tube, a few more distant ones have surface mounted Peco motors hidden in buldings, some of those have wire in tube from the motor to the point,so buildings don't have to be at track side.

Wiring  is run in grooves cut into the foam surface and covered by decorators filler and scenic stuff.

Peco turn tables are not so easy to motorise through 50mm of foam so I have an Atlas one, motor is in a hut to one side, said hut looks somewhat USA style, but covered in brick paper solves that, a bit large by UK standards and a flush deck but it does the job and is a damn sight cheaper than the Fleischmann.

I was never attracted to Sundeala, price  I consider exorbitant, and it needs too much supporting  woodwork. I'm not , familiar with Kingspan, must google it!

If you only want to "tidy" the existing ply, have you considered polystyrene foam "veneer" used as backing for wall paper, comes in rolls same size as wallpaper. Thickness I'm not too sure,somewhere between 3mm and 5mm from memory.

I think kingspan is the insulation fitted between rafters.

Sundeala is not generally regarded as being suitable for model railways, in spite of the adverts to the contrary.  MDF is rubbish in my experience.  It is heavy and damages easily at the edges and the layers sometimes separate when drilling into it.  I wouldn't give you the time of day for any of the foam boards as you can't mount point motors, etc. without making other arrangements to support them.  Personally I find plywood a pain in the backside to cut.  It always splinters when I try it.  CHIPBOARD.  Now there's the ideal medium in my book.  O.K. it's heavy, but will give you a firm base and takes screws with no problem.

I have no connection with chipboard other than as the owner of a chipboard factory!

Terry 

You almost had me there Terry, until you mentioned chipboard.:roll:  Ah well, each to his own.:cool:  O' course my perspective is from an exhibition layout where weight (or lack thereof) is pretty important.

John

Thanks for all you thoughts guys. I guess Sundela can be counted out , and also the polystyrene. Kingspan is a foil backed insulation board , has anyone used this ??.  I will use cork under the track to create the ballast shoulder.  
Cheers

Why isn't chipboard being mentioned? I know it's heavy and only suitable for permanent layouts but it doesn't need such strong woodwork to support it? I am thinking of using 12mm chipboard rather than plywood for my shed baseboards, any comments??

Cheers
Ron

Chipboard is known to absorb moisture and starts to decompose if it gets too wet. Flooring grade is probably better than standard and I would seal it well on both sides before use.

I agree, chipboard when / if saturated looses its structural integrity and never regains it. I have heard that there is a moisture resistant version but for external purposes with changes in temperature and potential exposure. To the elements etc I would steer clear of it. Ply is the way to go.

However people have used it so it's your call.

Toto.

I've used plywood hollw core doors for my baseboards and covered them over with wood fibreboard underlay , about £18 per pack of 18 sheets.  650mm x500 mm x 8mm ish, per sheet. Stuck down with neat pva and then sealed with a 50 50 watered / PVA mix..been out in my cold damp dusty workshop for 8 months with no signs of any problems…you can have any colour, as long as its green :mrgreen:.  If you break up any offcuts and feed them through the wife's blender you get free base Scatter which you can then cover with your more expensive stuff. If your worried about bugs eating it just mix some Jays fluid in the water / PVA mix….they don't seam to like the taste lol

That's my budget option
Cheers
   Matt

Presumably you are not going to model outside in the rain?  If you are then everything mentioned so far will deteriorate due to excess moisture.  But, if you are modelling indoors then chipboard will be fine.  I stored untreated chipboard baseboards in various lofts for many years until they were retrieved to build a small layout.  They were fine. Here is the proof…

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=9634&forum_id=21&highlight=halstead

Terry

[user=1775]g0ibi[/user] wrote:

Why isn't chipboard being mentioned? I know it's heavy and only suitable for permanent layouts but it doesn't need such strong woodwork to support it? I am thinking of using 12mm chipboard rather than plywood for my shed baseboards, any comments??

Cheers
Ron

Ron, chipboard is suitable for portable layouts (see my previous post).  Just don't make your baseboards too large to keep the weight to a minimum.  Personally, I think mdf is even heavier than chipboard. I would use chipboard without hesitation for a shed layout.  Presumably, your shed is not damp?

Terry

I've done a lot to make sure there's no damp in the shed, the choice for me was between chipboard and MDF. I don't like the idea of having to wear a mask to work on MDF and I don't like working with plywood hence the chipboard choice!:)

Cheers
Ron

the man is only topping his excisting boards,,4pl;y will do the job    as for isulation uder the track Iused wickes laminate floor under lay one of the best things I did £15 for18 pieces or 10 sq mtrs 5mm thick ,
:thumbs;-):cool:

If it is only needed to place on top of existing boards, then go for whatever is cheaper.

Terry

Everybody to their own but for the sake of a few quid more……it's ply for me every time. Situations change so use something that will work  most.

No disrespect to anyone who goes down their own road though. Good luck with whatever you use.

Cheers

Toto

I've used 9mm Birch Ply.  It's much better than the cheaper grades of ply you get in DIY stores.  It's actually 7-ply even though only mm thick so it's very strong and weighs much less than chipboard or MDF.

Mine were purchased from the local timber yard, who cut the 8x4 boards into the correct baseboard sizes.