Baseboards Getting you started
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(In Topic #11933)
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Start again? Baseboards need sturdy legs
Hi All. With my main layout? Consisting of Four individual boards, clamped together, thinking "Big with Grandiose Plans" I thought that it could be portable( rather than screwing to the wall ) well connected "Electrically"baseboard to baseboard, the American way, and with Dowels at the ends . Using Clamps underneath the Baseboard . But, the legs were very Wobbly, after spending a lot of time and money fitting folding leg brackets ( from a famous factory) send PM for details?Every time I went near it, everything shuddered so back to square one,
so I set about cutting up a length of 2 x 2 and 2 x 1 to make slot in supports, I offered up the leg, with a block clamped in the corner, perfect, screwed the block in place( glue is too permanent ) and left it while I walked to the Allotment, but to my surprise, when I returned, the leg will not go in without a lot of effort. Do I trim the leg to fit or start again, if I make it too loose it will wobble and require a bolt and nut and washer:???:
all the best. Kevin
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Posted
Site staff
Is this any help ?
http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Layout%20building.html
(Scroll down to Legs)
Ed
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14385&forum_id=5
For locating the ends, I recommend the C&L steel dowels as I discuss.
For construction, I go with plywood, again this is discussed.
I refuse to use a circular saw - they frighten me to death. My only concession is to use a jigsaw.
John
John
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Thank you, But I went wrong with the legs, which made the baseboards unsteady, and when I adopted the slot in idea, it was great before I went out and it only became a problem later. all the best. Kevin
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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I also did not want to screw to the wall - my walls are brick. We opted for some hammer together shelving from the local hardware store. No screwing or gluing and a good uniform height. According to the manufacturer each shelf holds 300kg but that was not really required in n gauge.
By spacing them around under the baseboards we also gained a lot of storage for boxes of "important stuff" that should not be thrown out plus paint tins, tools etc.
Andrew
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all the best. Kevin
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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So you have cut wood, exposed new surfaces, clamped to fit, and of course it swells up. Come the winter it will probably shrink. Did you buy cheap soft wood or the much more expensive kiln-dried stuff? Welcome to the club.
It needs to be a sliding friction fit (the ends need to be angled very slightly, around 1/32", narrow at the top, use thin wood shims if necessary to lock in place). Some #80/#150 paper is all you need to make the taper. You will also need leveling bolts/feet on the bottoms of the legs unless you have a perfectly level floor.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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