A while back I bought two old sapele 6'6"x2'6"(x1.5") doors with the idea of using these as baseboards; although heavy they are just about portable - although that would probably change when layout infrastructure is added! My idea was to start on these as separate sections (to see how I get on) and add more, space permitting (at present my "spare" bedroom - which is also my music room - would accomodate one more so I am envisaging an "L" shape to start with progressing to a "U" shape.  Any general comments would be appreciated but my main question is: would there be a problem with fixing point motors (I'd obviously have to avoid any of the bracing timbers) or would I be better off using manual operation, particularly as I envisage quite simple trackwork?
My 2nd query is on Gauge. I have always been "00" minded but as my main interest is in the scenic and scratchbuilding areas then "N" would give me far more scope, however, the fiddlyness of working in this small scale worries me a bit, also the locos etc look so small as to be almost insignificant (hope that doesn't upset the "N"gaugers!!!) of course, it just might be my eyesight - which is not too good - which is at fault! I'm aiming on a small branch line with a Timber Yard, Quarry and a Quay which in "00" could only be point to point with a fiddle yard but in "N" could perhaps incorporate a return loop or similar.  Anyway, I'd really appreciate any thoughts or suggestions from both camps as I'm sure there must be many pros and cons, many of which I won't have thought of!
Ken

Ken

I think you have listed the pros and cons in your introduction, however, I have seen some articles on line about using doors as a baseboard.  It is something I considered in the past. The attached link will give some idea of what is possible on just one door in N gauge.

http://users.iafrica.com/c/ca/caroper/tutorial/advanced.htm

Hope this helps

Bob(K)

Whilst the doors may seem a good solution to having ready-made baseboards, there are some drawbacks:

1. The width: If the baseboards (we'll call them that for now) are set against a wall, you may find it difficult to reach the back edge. Two feet seems to be the accepted 'standard' maximum width for that very reason. It may seem OK when there's nothing on the baseboard, but imagine it covered with scenery and buildings and perhaps you can begin to appreciate the problems you may encounter.

2. Point motors: You can, of course, mount point motors on the top surface of the baseboard, but you then have to find a way to disguise them using buildings, etc. If they were to be fixed beneath the baseboard, you would need a rather long extension pin to get though the thickness of the baseboard which I would guess is around 30 - 35 mm? The point motors themselves would obviously be completely exposed underneath the board rather than protected by framing as on 'standard' framed baseboards. This might be a problem when you come to move the baseboard.

3. Wiring: All your wiring is going to be 'hanging out in the breeze' too. With a standard baseboard the wiring often goes through holes in the cross-members, thereby keeping it out of the way if the board needs to be moved or transported.

Having said all that, there is no reason why you can't use the doors. I just want you to be aware of a few pitfalls.

I don't think I can really get into the OO versus N arena though. I have dabbled in N but have returned to OO. I'm sure fans of N will sing it's praises, but so too will the OO gauge supporters. Only you can decide.  :wink:

Perry

I think the list of pros and cons is fairly complete but if you do want to use the doors as baseboards then have a look at this site for possible ideas. The plans are for H0 and using sectional track but that doesn't matter from your point of view.

Astroslot : Situs Judi Slot Online Gacor Gampang Maxwin Terpercaya

As for operation of your points then memory wire is a good alternative for you to think about. An explanation is given here :

http://users.skynet.be/pro-rail/_private/fam/ukcafam2.htm

Hope all this helps. As a scratchbuilder myself and of fairly advanced years I wouldn't care to be working in N scale for buildings, ok for scenery of course.

The weblinks - BobK and Bob - were very interesting and pretty much confirm what I'd already thought, ie., that packing in as much track as possible into a small space looks just like a toytown trainset!!! Of course for someone who is more interested in train operation it would be fine, however for me I want to see a minimum of track wending through the maximum of countryside, in other words, realism! "N" gauge would obviously give me more space for this kind of treatment but your confirmation of eyesight difficulties with buildings - of which I want to do plenty! - is very pertinent Bob.
Perry, your comments are very enlightening: No.1 I'd already thought of but 2 & 3 I hadn't considered and this was just the sort of advice I was hoping for.
Thank you all, much appreciated.
Ken
PS: I'm still interested in anyone else's ideas!!!!!

with the peco pl10 point motor you can attach this to your point, then drill a small hole large enought for the motor under the point. this will house the point motor and you can run the wires under the board. also use a piece of card above the motor and below the point to hide the hole and allow for ballast.
this site will explain about the pl1o, hornby and seep motors

Redirect Notice

and here

TrModels.com is for sale | HugeDomains

stay away from the PL10 E, this is the PL10 with the extended centre pin. i found they loose that kick you need when switching, also they are a pain in the backside to mount.

Ken
sappele doors have only about 4mm thick venneer on each side inside it is only card board that maintains the gap plus the outside wood around the door plus usually where lock goes there is an extra piece of wood.
If you predetermine where the points are going you could rout or cut out the bottom veneer the size a bit bigger than a point motor then you could mount the point motor on the underside of the top veneer therefore being within say 5mm of the point itself. you may need to glue a small piece of wood to the underneaf of the top venneer to give you a thickness to screw point motor to.
If your eyesight is good enough n gauge would give you more layout scope . Another way of looking at it is if your eyesight isnt that good you wont see the mistakes anyway.    
cheers Brian

Thank you both: Matt, I know of the first website but the 2nd one was new to me and very helpful, plus your recommendation of PL10 is excellent.
Brian, I'm actually well aware of the sapele door construction as I've cut them up before on another project and I was also thinking exactly on your lines for mounting the motor although I wasn't too sure of the practicality of it - whereas now I am! Incidentally, I love your last paragraph, really made me smile.  Perhaps I'll try a "dummy run" on a scratchbuild house or something in "N" to see how I get on - in fact the more I think of it the better I like that idea.
Ken.

If you do have a dummy run with a house or something Ken then keep us up to date and we can help if you run into difficulties.

Ken,
My eyesight, with the aid of glasses, isn't too bad and my fingers are still pretty nimble and I choose N gauge to allow me to have the sweeping curves of a railway as part of the surrounding scenery, a concept which so far seems to be working well although I still have to start on the scenery :!:  :!:

The Newcastle Emlyn Branch layout is progressing nicely BUT… if you have trouble with either eyesight or multiple thumbs instead of fingers you will find fitting fishplates between rails very difficult indeed, just for example.

I have found head mounted magnifiers (2x, 4x and 12x), bright work lights and needle nose pliers and files are a must when working in N… oh and steady hands.

Not to say that you shouldn't try N, for the most part I'm very happy with it but it is very fiddly.
The good thing about scratchbuilding is that you can generalise, avoiding detail because you won't be able to see it anyway.
Dapol have released the GWR collett coaches for example that have individual coach numbers and classes printed beautifully on them. I can't read the numbers without using the 4x magnifiers and holding the coach a couple of inches from my nose :!:  :!:

As for the doors, mostly covered by the comments above, my only thoughts, and I have used a door in the past, are

1. remove the bottom veneer panel completely and rip out the carboard filler, add a couple more bracing struts and you have a baseboard.
2. don't plan any deep gorges or valleys that require the bracing struts to be cut away, such modifications will destroy the structural integrity of the door frame and lead to a wobbly baseboard… How do I know this :roll:  :roll:

When I've finished the Newcastle Emlyn layout… and I will finish it, my next one (shhh… don't tell T) will probably be OO or O.
Hope that helps.

Yes, very helpful Marty. I too like the concept of sweeping curves etc and I'm ok with my eyesight (for now!) and have nimble fingers etc and am used to working with needle nose pliars and files on my ship models. The problem for me with "N" gauge is that I really like fine detail and not being able to do that may make it less than a challenge for me (then of course if I try putting in such detail - which knowing me, I will(!) - I'll probably drive myself bonkers!!!).
Re the sapele doors, I'd already foreseen the "no gorges/valleys" problem and had thought I might overcome this by an allotted space between two boards; I don't fancy stripping the bottom panel off as I think it's more trouble than it's worth - particularly in the light of your "how do I know this" comment - just love that!
I also love your last paragraph - I think that really sums up the "00" or "N" question!
Perhaps I'll do an experimental "N" layout on just one of the doors, or maybe even one of those mad narrow gauge mountain ones with loads of tunnels and levels etc - it would certainly give me loads of scenic oportunities!
Ken