white metal and plastic kits mainly

I`m planning some kind of layout project 1930`s MR/LMS and am in the process of building locos and stock.
I`m going to move away from having the usual good shed scene and thought I would model a small moving yard crane.

I`m predominantly a kit builder in these matters and went for a Meteor models kit which looks as if it is based on MR practice.

The white metal crane was quite good and by chance made it to actually work. The truck it sits on however, needed replacement W irons from Slaters and was awkward to make…………




The truck was a soldering project and the crane was assembled with Gorrila superglue……………………






Next will be a MR shunters truck………




Sometimes, chance finds on ebay come up. I came across three Oldbury Models whitemetal wagon kits recently all less than £20 each.

This company is gone now and I find making whitemetal kits quite therapeutic.

The castings are not the best I`ve ever seen and needed alot of cleaning up with knife blades and fibre brushes. 

The solebar castings have a bow in them and so need gently straightening out.

But except for wheels ( I used Peco) they are complete kits with sprung buffers(whitemetal though)…….





Soldering the handrails was a challenge to keep square and I replaced the whitemetal foot boards with brass angle.

I used Carrs 100deg low melt solder as it does`nt need tinning.






Except for locomotive kits I`ve moved over to Clostermans black etch primer for everything else. It`s a quality spray can item that does`nt flood your model with too much paint and saves using and then cleaning an airbrush.



Finally…….. two coats of Humbrol No85 black with an airbrush ( Humbrol does`nt seem to dry very quickly if you brush it on)


















Transfers fromn a 30 year old set of 4mm PC methfix transfers and based on photos in Midland Wagons volume 1

Great stuff John.

I love the shunters truck - not as common as on GWR.

I also tend to replace footboards with brass, plastic (in my case) is just too fragile.

John

Thanks John
I`ve got a Parkside/Dundas O Gauge MR Brakevan in the paintshop but I hav`nt changed the footboards on that.  The 
lampirons and handrails are also fairly fragile.   I`ll just have to treat the wagons as kindly as the locos.
At the moment I keep all wagons and vans in soap  or ice cream boxes………….






John

I just completed the build of a Parkside LNER brake van.  I replaced the steps on that with brass.  Maybe it's not necessary in 7mm but, if they break, repairing them is a pain.  At least brass bends.

John

I think Brakevans are the more vulnerable………………………………………………………..
This is the Parkside GW…………………………………….



some of the lamp irons on this one Ihave had to retro fit with home made brass.  So long as you make sure the footboards are absolutely straight and no twists the Plastic Weld  seems to hold strong.








The Peco( ex Richard Webster) brakevans seem to be made from stronger plastic…………..

I'm still a newb to this and trying to find what's best.  I note that my Slaters LNER brake comes with lost wax hangers for the steps - I like that.  Stepboards are still plastic though.  Of course for the kit maker there is going to be the battle between scale thickness and strength.  A real problem in 4mm, maybe not so much in 7mm.

John

Some lovely modelling there, John.   :thumbs

Hi john WoW picture of the week,100% very nice modelling.

Best of Luck from a cold 0c South Wales

Noviceman

By the heavens above there's some real talent on this forum and if Twobolt John can't walk on water I'd be more than surprised !


Superb examples of kit building that I could never hope to match in a million years.


Allan

congrats John well deserved
:thumbs :thumbs ;-) :cool:
Owen

Hi John.  Excellent job , have you got any advice to give me on my first etched metal kit in OO ? Kevin

Thanks everyone for the kind comments…… much appreciated.


Morning Kevin,

I`ll do my best……….

What kind of kit?


John

Hi John.  Thank you for your reply. The kit is an "etched brass" OO gauge RT Models "HURST NELSON Brakevan"Which does look truly handsome when put together by an experienced modeller. Which I am not but I have go to start somewhere , if I am going to build a "Roxey Mouldings " LSWR Carriage kit, or two.

Kevin

I think that brakevan is a very good place to start  Kevin.
make sure you have a 25watt soldering iron. If your thinking of having a second think about a 40watt as well (I use antex irons)

And as others have said, a method of cleaning and tinning the tips regularly.

The small whitemetal parts don`t need to be soldered so use a quality superglue.

just ask away if you need advice…

john

Hi John.  Thank you for your reply. I have two Antex Irons the 15 watt iron is old but okay , I purchased the 25 watt iron in readiness for the Brakevan. I have a Weller Dual Heat Gun which also works. As far as. cleaning the irons is concerned I have one of those pots with a bunch of brass left over from turning. And I will always ask for help.Kevin