Tools of the Trade ?
Posted
#228787
(In Topic #12494)
Legacy Member
Scratch built buildings
It may come as surprise to some that you don't really need that many tools to scratch build buildings out of card or styrene
From lamp huts to cathedrals, nothing changes, either in construction methods used and tools employed where the only difference is that there's a lot more of one than there is of the other. So, here's three short lists of tools, materials and glues that I've been using for over 50 years where the only things that have changed is the strength of my bi-focals and the kind of memory that these days has me building things twice because it's a lot quicker than looking for the one I thought I'd built earlier but probably didn't !
TOOLS.
Stanley knife.
12inch/24inch steel ruler. 3 foot steel straight edge.
6inch/12inch steel square.
And that's it.
MATERIALS.
1mm/2mm grey non faced cardboard. Post card quality card for making roof tiles.
Various thicknesses of black and white Slaters plasticard
And that will be all you need to build anything.
GLUES.
PVA - Superglue/thick/medium/thin. - Evostick impact adhesive.
And there you have it, but do use good quality knife blades - Draper for example - and you'll build empires for just as less as for just as more !
Hope that helps.
Allan
Last edit: by allan downes
Posted
Full Member
I'd agree with most of the tools you list, except maybe modelling in N gauge I'd rarely need 24" rules. As for materials my preference where possible is Slaters embossed plasticard, alternatively plain card with brick, stone or tile printed onto A4 label stock and stuck to the card.
With advancing age (now 83) I've gone over to using a plotter cutter for as much as possible, leaving knives as a last resort. I do the building walls with window and door openings on computer then convert the images in the plotter cutter software to generate the drive signals to the plotter cutter. I can cut out 2 four house terrace house walls from an A4 sheet in between 5 and 10 minutes depending on the material being cut.
I use etched brass windows and doors, I think most of those provided in plastic kits are too coarse in N gauge, the Metcalfe printed on acetate are not much better. I also use cast bay windows and dormers to add variety.
I'd beinterested to know what method you use to keep corners square, I usually add a floor or ceiling of 3mm foam board or sometimes some plastic angle, backed up by some York models magnetic aids in various sizes while the glue sets
https://www.yorkmodelrail.com/useful-bits/yorks-magnetic-mates-small-squares-x-2
Cheers MIKE
I'm like my avatar - a local ruin!
I'm like my avatar - a local ruin!
Posted
Legacy Member
Oh, and How do I produce square corners ? With a set square of course the same way as builders have been doing for centuries.
Secretly of course I wish that I had your computer skills then it would cut out all the guess work associated with 'hack 'n' hope' !
Allan
Last edit: by allan downes
Posted
Full Member
I think the biggest challenges are finding a suitable prototype and sufficient information on it to make a reasonable model. After that it's simply a matter of scaling and copying.
Allan, you've shown us a number of ways to create details in your articles (which are now safely in my computer).
I know I'm not going to tackle anything like your church but we can take on smaller projects.
Wills sheets are good but those available commercially tend to be too small for a large area like a wall or roof. They're also a devil to cut. I believe you have said elsewhere that you get Wills to supply you with large sheets.
I tend to use Slaters or Southeast Finescale embossed plastic for brick, stone and roof tiles/slate. These come in large sheets and are very easy to cut. They do need to be laminated to 0.040" plastic sheet though.
Scalescenes are a very good way for us bodgers to produce good looking buildings.
Lovely stuff.
John
Last edit: by Brossard
John
Posted
Legacy Member
If you want to join Wills sheets blind the join in with a low melt soldering Iron and always cut out apertures from the back with a Stanley knife
You can also use Slaters heavy embossed stone sheets to good effect as seen here.
Allan.
Posted
Legacy Member
Allan
Posted
Legacy Member
Allan
Posted
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Continuing with my ego trip, here be a few more castle shots but built out of Wills stone sheets.
Allan
You have a disgraceful lack of self control Allan! Keep up the wonderful work and making us smile.
Best,
Bill
Last edit: by Longchap
At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
Posted
Full Member
Are you sure you are not a alien ?
I know me a mere mortal can not do that. But it is wonderful to see Thank You
Regards
Stephen
Last edit: by GreenBR
Acording to a recent visit to a supermarket at check out time, I an not loosing my memory it has been downgraded which means i am not stupid afterall - Sorted! - What a relief
Posted
Inactive Member
http://www.clag.org.uk/scrawker.html
although I use a commercial one
https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&name=plastic-cutter-scrawker&cid=1622&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1063
Last edit: by The Q
Now I've finally started a model railway…I've inherited another…
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