Recycling for the sake of it?

About three years ago, when I first started railway modelling again, I bought some very old Triang wagons from that internet auction site. (Probably one of a number of totally nostalgic purchases)

This was before I knew about modern code 100 and code 75 track and had no inkling of things like DCC, JMRI or RR&Co. I was basically just trying to get a few bits of cheap rolling stock, to build up the amount available for the layout.

Now, considering how much theses cost I could just throw them in the bin, but ………………



Drifted out the old axles. Hornby R8098 12.6mm wheels, shouldered bearing and a bit of cyano



Plain bearings the other side and a bit of Milliput



Unfortunately since taking the picture the Milliput didn't set properly and fell out, but a drop of cyano and they're now fine.

Question is, what to do about couplings?



Probably have these as a fixed rake with a wagon at each end with a Bachmann coupling.

Wagon number two has couplings, but solid axle boxes.



Cut the axles with a hacksaw and drill out the axle boxes to 2mm maybe?


Ed

Hi Ed I also have a few old Triang stock and when re-wheeled and weathered they can pass muster with my eyesight.

Ian

I'll just apply the 3 foot rule Ian


Ed

I've also a few of these wagons, and coincidentally have modified them in the same way with pinpoint bearings and new wheelsets. Coupling-wise, I've worked my way through my entire wagon stock fitting Kadee's- perhaps not everyones ideal coupling, but smaller than the relatively enormous original couplings fitted to some of these wagons. Not got around to weathering many of my older wagons yet, but at least I'll get plenty of practice when I do!
                                                                                               Keith.

Also putting a load in them also adds to the effect, and with cast metal chassis they ride pretty well.

Ian

Interested to know how you fitted the Kadee's Keith, did you cut the mazac and fit a NEM socket. I'm not fitting Kadee's, just interested about the various options.

Agree about the way they ride Ian. Been pushing this one through the point work with the Deltic (weather permitting) and it seems to travel better than the newer all plastic offerings.


Ed

I've done a few of the old Hornby Dublo chassis like that,
and they definitely do run better than their modern
light-weight counterparts.
So I load them up with lead, from off-cuts of lead
flashing, that makes a big difference!

most of my stock is old stuff, Ifitted bearings and wheels as per then cut the old tri-ang couplins off and fitted kadee`s to all,but rather than try to fit nem boxes I screwed them direct , works fine then filled them with nuts bolts any thing for weight
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen

Coupling height is going to be the tricky bit I think, whatever I use.

Can't seem to cut through the axles on the brown wagon at the moment. I had a bit of a go with a hacksaw, but it's been so cold in the garage I've had to give up.


Ed

Try using a cutting disc in a mini-drill (Dremel) for the axles

Haven't got one Jeff.

(Guess what's on my Christmas list)


Ed

Is the coupling height a problem due to the thickness of the chassis or is the chassis just too high and the couplings need to be lowered down ?

Cheers, Gary.

Hi Gary

The brown wagon's old style T/L is the right height and I'll probably leave on, but if you look back at the blue wagon it's just got two bits of mazac protruding from the chassis, where the old T/L style coupling was riveted on.

I'm thinking of maybe just using the hook from a T/L, in some way connected using the hole where the rivet was.

Since we've actually got some sunshine today I'll try and take a couple of pictures later, which may explain a bit better.


Ed

Please forgive me for I'm not the brightest, but I take it mazac, is a form of plastic ? If so, could it be cut out with a Stanley knife, carefully ??

Cheers, Gary.

Here you go Gary (scroll down a little bit)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zamak

Ed

Lima wagon on the right, with Bachmann coupling and staple for magnetic uncoupling and original Lima coupling towards Triang wagons.



I could cut the mazac as indicated by the red line, but it may then be difficult to attach a Bachmann coupling to what's left.



Alternatively, put some sort of rod through the hole where the rivet was and attach just the hook from a T/L coupling.

(yes, I know the body is not quite on the chassis )


or, just a loop of wire for a T/L hook to attach to.


Other end with the old Triang T/L on the brown wagon.



Just thought someone else might already have done something like this.



Ed

Ahhh, ok. No wonder your having trouble removing such metal. Looks like a job for a hack saw or fret saw with a metal cutting blade.

Cheers, Gary.

 

 

Gary is right,I have done that to all my t/ang trucks,just use the blade of a junior hack saw then file smooth I then drilled a 2 mm hole in the chassis and used a self tap screw to hold the kadee in place,
:thumbs;-):cool:
OWEN

Hi Ed.
            Yes, I just cut the Mazak off, filed it flat then used the 'Draft gear boxes' with Kadee No 5's. With regard to weighting wagons and coaches, I bought a 3 metre x 150mm length of lead roof flashing which is easily cut into suitable sized strips as required and incorporated into wagons wherever I can fit as low down as possible to keep the centre of gravity low.
                                                                       Keith.

Will superglue stick to Mazak ? If so, then if the solebars are too high, just glue some appropriate thickness bits of plasticard to the underside of the chassis to act as shims and either glue or drill and tap the draft gearboxes to the plasticard…………:roll::roll:

For weight, I've sometimes used lead weights used for fishing lines (or even 12 or 16 bore shotgun shot) pushed into BlueTack or plasticine worked into the gaps in the chassis frames - depends how much extra weight you need ……….I'd have thought with a diecast chassis, you won't need that much. :hmm