DAPOL Cattle Wagons
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(In Topic #11930)
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David.
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Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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I used a small flat blade screwdriver, insert the screwdriver as close to the end as you can looking at the model from the side press it down on the floor but up against the body not too hard and wait after two or three seconds it pops off, repeat on the other side and away you go.Thin blade to separate top from bottom apparently. Sol has been through this. You're probably better off using liquid lead (and very high quality PVA, plastic compatible CA is better) or thin lead sheet underneath. Some nice white metal cows (or beer barrels) slid sideways through the gap would do the trick. After of course getting rid of what passes for an NEM 362 coupler pocket. If you buy the kit it looks to have working doors, which would solve the problem. Alternately, remove the doors and ramp very carefully with a fine saw (fret for example) and reattach. No lime unless you're modeling the 1920's.
Nigel
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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I haven't seen the Oxford model but I always say with RTR you're 90% there as a rule as long as the fundamentals are correct.
John
John
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Assuming they're not using old presses, they have to get their details from somewhere - presumably a preserved example. In this day and age, it's no more difficult to get it right than it is to get it wrong !!!
Maybe they are all buying obsolete tooling and squeezing the last few models out of them before they totally wear out.
It seems some of the kit manufacturers are almost there so why do the big boys so often get it so badly wrong ?
'Petermac
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Last edit: by Passed Driver
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Nowadays, newly produced models tend to be basically correct and if there are discrepancies these can usually be put right with a bit of determination on the part of the modeller.
There are still a few holdouts, such as the Bachmann cattle wagon I mentioned so a certain amount of caution is still required.
Dapol acquired a lot of the old Airfix railway kits many years ago. Some of these are still in demand by modellers and, while dated, are essentially correct.
John
John
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Quite correct John, the Dapol GWR pattern turntable being a fine case in point for any GW modeller wanting to represent the Swindon style above deck bridge unit, without spending some £300 for a brass kit.Peter, I think that back in the 70s manufacturers (Hornby mostly) tended to do exactly what you say. Wagon underframes, coaches, even locomotives were to a standard design and were made to suit various "models" of the prototype. It shows what a lack of competition can do and perhaps the contempt that the Hornby of the time had for modellers.
Nowadays, newly produced models tend to be basically correct and if there are discrepancies these can usually be put right with a bit of determination on the part of the modeller.
There are still a few holdouts, such as the Bachmann cattle wagon I mentioned so a certain amount of caution is still required.
Dapol acquired a lot of the old Airfix railway kits many years ago. Some of these are still in demand by modellers and, while dated, are essentially correct.
John
The humble plastic kit can for the good basis for a fine re-worked model.
Parkside however, deserve a special mention for giving us all the right elements at an excellent price.
Bill
Bill
At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
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I like to think of kits as aids to scratchbuilding. It is in the area under the solebars where the kits tend to fall down and aftermarket products do fit the bill.
John
John
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I agree about Parkside (who have just been acquired by Peco), they have a broad range of models and are very good value (in both 4 and 7mm). I've done Cambrian, Ratio and others in the past too. They all deserve credit for providing us modellers with accurate models of prototypes that the RTR gang don't do or do badly.
I like to think of kits as aids to scratchbuilding. It is in the area under the solebars where the kits tend to fall down and aftermarket products do fit the bill.
John
Your last sentence John is right on the money.
This year, I'm asking Father Christmas for a shrink wrap machine so I can build underframes in 7mm, then shrink them to 4mm. That'll work a treat!
Bill
At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
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John
John
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At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
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