Peco buffer stops

Hi All.    Not exactly mobile ? unless they get tested? I am looking for a way to improve Peco buffer stops ( that is apart from throwing them away)  I have read various ideas, about cutting off the lamp and replacing them with an electric lamp? But, they are fragile and gluing them doesn’t seem to work, unless anyone knows better? Painting may work with a mix of “ black and white paint? a tip I found somewhere, but I thought black and white made grey? Weathering sounds better? But on one of my “ mobile Shunting Puzzles “ , that get put away after use, there is a lot of bumping in the process .meaning sometimes they need putting together again , Peco sleeper built may have the same problem, I did build one, that turned out over scale. Best wishes.  Kevin

Hi Kevin,

On my previous layout I modified three peco buffer stops by carefully drilling through the lamp on the top and inserting a micro LED..  In the process in ruined two buffers and three LEDs before I got the three that worked on the layout

One can be seen in the picture below. Unfortunately none of them survived the move to the new layout as the wiring is super fine and broke off when I attempted to recover them.

Hi Dave.  Thank you for your reply . That is a good idea, but, for a clumsy bloke, like me, I am more worried about keeping the buffer stop in one piece. My specialised subject is destroying LED’s. Best wishes. Kevin

How about one of these, Kevin?

http://www.train-tech.…fer-lights/2-buffer-light


I am using one at the end of the LT siding underground in the tunnel.

Hi Jeff.   Thank you.  But, it is the Bufferstop( in this advert, Buffer stop not included) that collapses on my plank.I need a Kevin proof Bufferstop . I was thinking about a jig to make my own, but, that sounds a bit OTT.
Best wishes. Kevin

Hi Jeff.   Second reply, I was considering the “ Top Price “ charged by Lanarkshire models for a bulk pack of  Southern Bufferstops for five items of £27.50. But I don’t do the lottery.   Best wishes. Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Doing you own from some scrap rail is not hard (JLTRT), but you will need to give it some heat treatment from a propane torch to get it to bend easily. NS rail is essentially hard brass alloy, it will kink if you try and bend it as is. Code 75 is of course easier to work with than code 100. You can then of course solder it to the track.

Nigel

Hi Nigel.  Thank you.  If I had the tools and premises I would be tempted. But I would secure the Bufferstop just clear of the fail ends to avoid shorts, especially in this hot weather , sun burned legs? Not very good. Best wishes. Kevin

Hi Terry.   Thank you for your reply.  Yes the “ Correct Adhesive “??? which as it so happens I haven’t found. I thought that I had found it? wrong again,:oops:. If you could point me in the correct direction I would be much obliged. Best wishes. Kevin

Hi Kevin

There are four lugs on the buffer stops.  Drive track pins through these lugs into the base board and the buffer stop will not move.

Cheers
Max

Hi Max. Thank you for your reply.  Track Pins ? Unless I pre drill the baseboard I can never get a Track Pin in without bending it, as for the “tiny drills” ? I keep breaking them.   Best wishes. Kevin

Are you using and Archimedes' drill?

Hi Kevin,

Correction - butane or propane torch. You just need to heat-treat the parts that bends, not the whole length. For that you would need a plumbing torch. Mine is a mini butane torch/soldering iron/heat wand (for heat shrink).

You could of course isolate the section of track just before the ends with a switch. I do that as a matter of course. Unless you have sophisticated gears, big flywheels or heavy duty stay-alives, at shunting speeds it will stop dead. One loco length plus an inch. Or install an IRDOT system.

Cheapo way is a clear plastic head pin or rod in the middle of the track at buffer height before the stop. Or pin some barrels in place after the stop.

Unless the plastic rail stops are pinned in place as suggested they will dislodge with a good thwack (even CA glued) They're meant to be cosmetic, not functional. For that you need real rail. The sleeper box ones are much sturdier.

Nigel

Hi Max.  Thank you. In answer to your question , Yes, but there are two types of Archimedes drill, I purchased the wrong one?  One type , one holds the top in one hand, while the other hand moves the “ bush “ up and down .My one , one pushes down on the top, too much pressure , and another drill breaks or bends
Best wishes.  Kevin

Hi Nigel. Thank you. The mini butane torch, is that like the TV chefs use? My attempt at a DIY sleeper built Bufferstop came out over scale.   Best wishes. Kevin

Hi Max.   I meant to ask you, the Bufferstop in the photo, is that one of your creations ?  Best wishes. Kevin

Hi Kevin

I have a couple of Archimedes drills, of both kinds.  They never break drills.

If your drills are sharp, they require very little pressure to make them cut.  0.5 mm is the size for Peco track pins.

Perhaps you could try a pin vise.


The photo is from Terry's post, two above.  It's a Peco SL-40

 Hi Max  Thank you.  The drills were new, I think it was me being impatient ? I also have pin vices.Best wisnes.  Kevin